wear out clutch symptoms

[Ramx]

so i think my clutch its coming to an end the car has 233k+ miles and idk if its been replaced or not can u guys tell me the symptoms of a wear out clutch or .. so far i know my clutch pedal fells funny( yes i checked the fluid) idk if its me and the car make a winning noise when i step on the pedal is gone ... and is the duralast clutch kit from autozone any good i can get a good discount on it and i been readying around i ma get the oem clutch bearing . Another question like how much is a clutch job ??? thx in advance


EDIT : does this clutch seems good ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-RA...#ht_2376wt_933

[JDMDriver]

I recommend only either OEM (for all components incl bearings) or Exedy clutch.

Im not an expert but a "Worn clutch" where it doesn't feel right (can also be worn or faulty components incl fly wheel, pressure plate etc not just the clutch).

From what i know and read an actual worn clutch will make your engine rev more. When accelerating there will be a noticeable lack of actual acceleration corresponding to the increasing engine speed.

With increased revs (and less corresponding acceleration) economy (miles per gallon or kilometres per litre) will also suffer.

Due to the mechanical inefficiency of a worn clutch the top end power is also known to decrease.

[visualpoet]

From experience, a worn clutch will slip and you'll KNOW it's going out, your car won't take off and accelerate the way it usually does.

I think what you have is a throw out bearing on the way out. You might as well replace the clutch, and pressure plate while you're in there, just to save the trouble down the road. It's a good time to upgrade to a higher performance clutch as well. Call some shops and take it in for an estimate, or buy some tools and a Haynes manual and learn to do it yourself.

[deevergote]

A worn clutch shouldn't have anything to do with the pedal, aside from MAYBE a slight increase in travel. A worn clutch will result in the engine continuing to rev when you shift, or when it is put under load.

Think of the clutch as a brake pad. When the clutch is engaged (you're not on the pedal), the engine turns the transmission by way of the clutch, which is locked in place (like brake pads if you were to stand on the brakes.) When the clutch wears, it doesn't stay locked in place as it should, and the engine is able to spin without spinning the transmission.
That's all the clutch disc is... the physical connection between engine and transmission.


The Autozone clutch will be fine if you don't do any hard driving. That F1 clutch SUPPOSEDLY has a good reputation, but my personal experience with such cheap "ebay" brands has not been good.
My suggestion, get an Exedy clutch, and either replace or resurface your flywheel (resurfacing at least is necessary.)
If you get the Exedy clutch, you can use the throwout bearing it comes with. If you get a cheap brand, get a throwout bearing from Honda. The cheap bearings are no good, and often fail. When they fail, they destroy all your clutch components.



However, if your clutch isn't worn, your master or slave cylinders might be failing.

[Ramx]

all rite guys thx i will have everything checked up and i will keep guys updated

[Ramx]

Another thing to add to get the car on first gear I need to press on the pedal like 2 times and the pedal fells lose

[deevergote]

In that case, one of your cylinders is definitely failing.

[prcb7]

My clutch is also going out. I have to be careful when shifting because it will rev up to high when ever i try to punch it even a little bit. I was told ACT clutches are good but they are pricey. i went with the duralst clutch until i get money for a better clutch.

[deevergote]

If you aren't making enough power to justify an expensive "performance" clutch, then it's just a waste of money anyway. Exedy is the best one to get. They have some tougher ones that are relatively inexpensive as well.

Duralast parts are ok, I suppose... better than a failing clutch... but the clutch is a pain in the ass to change. I'd put a good one in there and know I don't have to worry about it for a few years! (I say this knowing that I just put a TERRIBLE XTD Stage 1 in my car... because my friend happened to have it on hand, and sold it to me for $100... )

[Ramx]

In that case, one of your cylinders is definitely failing.

but this start to happen after the funny the winning sound came up it was last nite and deev can u tell me the differences of the stages its it worth it to get a stage 3? or 2 whats the difference

[deevergote]

The difference in the stage (which isn't a universal term... one "stage 3" may be considerably different than another) is simply how much power it can hold. If you're making less that 200whp, you really don't need anything more than OEM. A "better" clutch will only make shifting harsher, and it will wear your flywheel faster. You will get no benefit from a clutch made for more power than you're making.


winning sound? do you mean whining sound? (winning is what you do when you're not losing.)
That could be something failing, like the throwout bearing. It could also be a result of the clutch not fully disengaging because the hydraulics are shot.

Honestly, I would replace it all. It'll cost you $300-$400, I figure. New clutch kit and flywheel, new hydraulics, and new fluids... plus replacement parts for anything that might break or is discovered broken in the process of replacing those things (common things to break are ball joints and axles)

[Ramx]

The difference in the stage (which isn't a universal term... one "stage 3" may be considerably different than another) is simply how much power it can hold. If you're making less that 200whp, you really don't need anything more than OEM. A "better" clutch will only make shifting harsher, and it will wear your flywheel faster. You will get no benefit from a clutch made for more power than you're making.


winning sound? do you mean whining sound? (winning is what you do when you're not losing.)
That could be something failing, like the throwout bearing. It could also be a result of the clutch not fully disengaging because the hydraulics are shot.

Honestly, I would replace it all. It'll cost you $300-$400, I figure. New clutch kit and flywheel, new hydraulics, and new fluids... plus replacement parts for anything that might break or is discovered broken in the process of replacing those things (common things to break are ball joints and axles)

whining yeah thx for the heads up my English is not that good yet and yeah i know i might get new axels. the balls joints are ok the axels they looked good last time i lifted the car up but I will c how my pocket will be this moth and i hope the car last me for like 2-3 weeks i need for work

and how about THIS fly wheel i don't wanna be cheap but u said i don't need nothing fancy since my car is stock

[deevergote]

A flywheel is like a brake rotor... the cheap ones are more likely to warp... but it won't be terrible. As long as the pilot bearing doesn't fail, anyway.


And I didnt' mean the condition of the axles and ball joints now... I meant you're very likely to damage them when removing the transmission, and they'll also need to be replaced.

[Ramx]

A flywheel is like a brake rotor... the cheap ones are more likely to warp... but it won't be terrible. As long as the pilot bearing doesn't fail, anyway.


And I didnt' mean the condition of the axles and ball joints now... I meant you're very likely to damage them when removing the transmission, and they'll also need to be replaced.

Deev thx for all the help as u said it was the hydrolics I changed both slave and master cylinders thx bro I really alreciated ur help got the car running normal just now did the job by my self . Now I ma get some sleep work at 9 am