Best performance with factory parts...can't find thread.

[Ratty]

I saw a thread SOMEWHERE about using all stock parts to get around 140 whp. The list included (IIRC) using an A4 header, an A6 ECU, A6 cam and I think an A6 or H22 intake and TB...

But I can't find the thread and can't even remember if it was here or on another site altogether. (Search ain't werkin fer me.)

At any rate, I'm interested in trying it. I think it would be something to hold me over until I can afford to build an engine properly (and decide on what I want to do).

If anyone knows the thread I'm talking about or has some ideas for low cost improvements; I'm all ears!

[19dabeast85]

Hmm...can't find the thread either and I thought it was stickied.

Here's you list:

a4 exhaust manifold
a6 cam and ecu (pt6)
h23 intake or a6 intake with h23 plenum. (full h23 intake setup is the best though)
wire up the IAB's to the proper pin(I think pin 17 but not sure) on the pt6 ecu so they open correctly

To complement the above:

true 3" CAI (buy one for a 4th gen prelude off ebay)
don't cheap out on air filter. Get a AEM or APEXI dry-flow and replace it every 15k. DO NOT get a k&n, spectre, or similar wet filter, they let way too much dirt through as my oil analysis have proven.

Keep in mind the lx/dx exhaust is slightly smaller than the ex/se so getting 2" piping put in will help and be plenty adequate for the stock a6 cam setup.

[19dabeast85]

Found the thread, it's in the "common beginner tech..." sticky in the beginner tech section.

Quick link

It's a good read!

[wed3k]

your best bet is to refresh the engine. no point on adding parts to a worn out engine.

[94H_Ex]

As well as choosing a decent tranny. H22 trannies are obviously a good one to roll with, but for standard junkyard finds, I suggest the lx/dx. My brother and I compared trannies, and my dx transmission pulls way harder than his ex. Which is odd to me because you figure the ex would have a more performance gearing.

['93CB7Ex]

to get around 140 whp.

Just saying, i have a 93 ex F22A6 and i have h23 upper the cam the a6 manifold and a ebay header and i put 128 whp down. youd have to have some more stuff to get into the 140 range.

[19dabeast85]

Just saying, i have a 93 ex F22A6 and i have h23 upper the cam the a6 manifold and a ebay header and i put 128 whp down. youd have to have some more stuff to get into the 140 range.

I agree, all the above mods will put you at about 150 crank hp, and 130whp given that you have a healthy motor.

[MrSpeedy]

Hmm...can't find the thread either and I thought it was stickied.

Here's you list:

a4 exhaust manifold
a6 cam and ecu (pt6)
h23 intake or a6 intake with h23 plenum. (full h23 intake setup is the best though)
wire up the IAB's to the proper pin(I think pin 17 but not sure) on the pt6 ecu so they open correctly

To complement the above:

true 3" CAI (buy one for a 4th gen prelude off ebay)
don't cheap out on air filter. Get a AEM or APEXI dry-flow and replace it every 15k. DO NOT get a k&n, spectre, or similar wet filter, they let way too much dirt through as my oil analysis have proven.

Keep in mind the lx/dx exhaust is slightly smaller than the ex/se so getting 2" piping put in will help and be plenty adequate for the stock a6 cam setup.

What about the valvesprings? I've read that A6 or the EX has stiffer valvesprings so how the normal LX springs work and is the engine still reliable?

[pedalpusher90]

Here's you list:

a4 exhaust manifold
a6 cam and ecu (pt6)
h23 intake or a6 intake with h23 plenum. (full h23 intake setup is the best though)
wire up the IAB's to the proper pin(I think pin 17 but not sure) on the pt6 ecu so they open correctly

is the h23 IM and blackbox a bolt on or is there modding to fit it? and what did the h23 motor come stock on?

[wed3k]

What about the valvesprings? I've read that A6 or the EX has stiffer valvesprings so how the normal LX springs work and is the engine still reliable?

i wouldnt bother swapping them over.

[Ratty]

Just saying, i have a 93 ex F22A6 and i have h23 upper the cam the a6 manifold and a ebay header and i put 128 whp down. youd have to have some more stuff to get into the 140 range.

Yep, once I was pointed to the right thread I realized they were taking crank hp and not wheel.

I think I'm just going to change the stuff that I'll be able to use later on. I'm stuck between all motor or going with a mild turbo.

I'm leaning towards all motor due to the reduced complexity and I'm pretty comfortable with building a N/A engine ... but a turbo looks good for several reasons. I've never built a turbo engine (something new/fun), I like the thought of starting with a mild build with enough overhead to easily increase the power later on...

If I can hit 200hp on a reliable build I'll be happy. I figure enough hp to make it zippy, and then concentrate on handling. I had an EG, but I swear the CB7 hugs the road better. The EG tended to lift the inside rear wheel on hard turns, I hated that!

[deevergote]

The CB is heavier, which makes it a bit less nimble... but also makes it a bit more firmly planted to the ground. The EG is a featherweight.


As for crank horsepower and wheel horsepower, it's only about 18-20 percent difference. So if you make 50 crank, you're putting down about 40 wheel.

For $500, you can make, say... 30whp easily. For another $1200, you can double that (or more) with a Bisimoto header. Add a Bisimoto camshaft, and get a fully tuned ECU... you'd be close to reaching your goal. It would take at least $2000 in parts, and that's only the performance upgrades. You'll need to make sure the engine is perfectly healthy, or it won't last very long... Some restoration will be required.

[Ratty]

The CB is heavier, which makes it a bit less nimble... but also makes it a bit more firmly planted to the ground. The EG is a featherweight.


As for crank horsepower and wheel horsepower, it's only about 18-20 percent difference. So if you make 50 crank, you're putting down about 40 wheel.

For $500, you can make, say... 30whp easily. For another $1200, you can double that (or more) with a Bisimoto header. Add a Bisimoto camshaft, and get a fully tuned ECU... you'd be close to reaching your goal. It would take at least $2000 in parts, and that's only the performance upgrades. You'll need to make sure the engine is perfectly healthy, or it won't last very long... Some restoration will be required.

At 300,000 miles I'd say a rebuild is in order! The car pulls pretty good until around 5000 rpm's and then it falls flat. I have more blowby than I'd like, but no smoke. I can't locate my compression tester, but I'm sure it's on the low side. It was a cheap car, I traded my EG for a decked out Tahoe... hated the Tahoe after one week so I sold it, the Accord just sorta fell into my lap. The guy who had it couldn't get the idle to quit bouncing around (bad diaphragm in the starting valve and a couple of bad vacuum lines) and just wanted to get rid of it. I've always liked the CB7's style and have this thing about seeing a Honda getting neglected, so a snatched it up. Next day I found an SE in better shape (and with the black leather interior) for just a little more money.

I'm engine shopping now so I can keep driving the car and just spend a weekend swapping the old engine for a fresh one.

I keep looking at the H22s from HMO... I could get the full swap for about what I'd have in machine work + parts rebuilding an F22. That's tempting.

[deevergote]

The H22 is a nice motor. I've had one (from HMO) since 2003.

Either one can make plenty of power.