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Zero TDC

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    Zero TDC

    I didn't know where else to post, so im posting this here
    since i got the H23 tranny installed it seems that i lost the marking right by the bell housing, where the Zero TDC mark is, i been trying to figure out a way to do this since i want to install the A6 cam, and well as most might know i am going to have to take off the valve rockers and will need to adjust the valves... any help would be wonderful.
    (i have everything i need except for that damn mark!)
    Originally posted by scudweiser
    it will go vrooooooom bauggggghhhh mmmmmmaauuugggg. Still no mmmmmbAAAAAAAUUUHHHHHHH though.
    Originally posted by deevergote
    Do you have anything intelligent to offer, or are you just trying to whore up your post count?

    #2
    Trying to find True TDC for the block?If so take your dip stick put it down cylinder #1 plug tube.Turn crank until dip stick is all the way at the top this will be TDC.You will fill it get a friend to turn the crank if need be until dip stick is all the top.This will find True TDC for ya an is quite simple.I use this 90% of the time just to make damn sure the timing is correct.Hope this helps ya bud GL.

    02 Crv
    02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
    92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
    Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.

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      #3
      Originally posted by SOHC-FTW View Post
      Trying to find True TDC for the block?If so take your dip stick put it down cylinder #1 plug tube.Turn crank until dip stick is all the way at the top this will be TDC.You will fill it get a friend to turn the crank if need be until dip stick is all the top.This will find True TDC for ya an is quite simple.I use this 90% of the time just to make damn sure the timing is correct.Hope this helps ya bud GL.

      yep, that works. It's not DEAD accurate though. It's a good eyeball method and works great and it's good enough to mechanically time the pistons to the valve movemenht. (Dead accurate would be to install a dead stop in the spark plug hole (this is a spark plug base with a short bolt welded to it to make it long enough to reach the cylinder and STOP IT while you manually rotate the engine before it gets to TDC. Then a little bit of geometry at the crankshaft pulley alignment marks will show you EXACT tdc as indicated at the crankshaft pulley (which, at its outer circumference, is more sensitive at indicating piston movement than the dipstick held in your hand is)).

      If you want to know the longer procedure, search for "dead stop" and my username, i've posted about it before. If it's still confusing write me back.


      You need to make sure you are on the intake stroke too. The piston moves four times in each combustion cycle: down once on the intake stroke to take air and fuel in, then up to TDC to compress the air/fuel mixture. (this is the one you want to identify). Then down (the power stroke after the spark plugs ignite the compressed air/fuel mixture) and then up again to TDC (the exhaust stroke that evacuates the spent air/fuel mixture. ). You'll know you are on the intake stroke if the intake side valves on the relevant piston are open at the bottom of the upstroke but close on the way up. (I'm pretty sure that's it...I don't do this a lot so I would want to refer to a book or refernce or actually think about it with the engine in front of me before moving ahead on it).

      EDIT oops you don't need that last bit about the intake stroke for this job (just marking the crankshaft pulley and chassis for tdc).
      Last edited by batever; 05-29-2011, 03:01 PM.

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