Idle down to Engine death

[s2cmpugh]

Any luck? If the idle is surging and bouncing around I would try looking for a vacuum leak or an intake manifold gasket leak. It is possible the IACV is going bad, but from what I've read on here that normally doesn't happen. You can test the IACV using a DVOM, but I'm not sure of the values you are looking for, so you might check with a service manual on that.

[drewams]

Any luck? If the idle is surging and bouncing around I would try looking for a vacuum leak or an intake manifold gasket leak. It is possible the IACV is going bad, but from what I've read on here that normally doesn't happen. You can test the IACV using a DVOM, but I'm not sure of the values you are looking for, so you might check with a service manual on that.

I am gonna get some more carb cleaner to check for a vacuum leak. I will update this afternoon. This is puzzling me. No surging. Just idle at 1000 rpm in park then drops in drive and reverse. Seems odd to me. Another problem. I don't know if this affects the idle issue so I may need to make a new thread. The engine is shaking pretty bad. I am thinking maybe the mounts. They look pretty worn. How difficult to replace?

[s2cmpugh]

The extreme vibrations at idle could be worn mounts, especially since yours is an auto and uses a fluid filled rear engine mount that does run on vacuum. If that rear fluid filled mount wears out, it will cause the engine to vibrate more at idle. It's not tooo hard to replace, just need to remove the intake manifold (use a new gasket), support the engine from underneath, then replace the mount.

It is normal for an auto to drop in rpm's a little when putting it in drive or reverse, but 1000rpm hot idle is too high. I'm a little stumped too, but start with the simple things and then we'll work to the more complicated ones. Is it possible to swap your IACV with a known working one?

[drewams]

The extreme vibrations at idle could be worn mounts, especially since yours is an auto and uses a fluid filled rear engine mount that does run on vacuum. If that rear fluid filled mount wears out, it will cause the engine to vibrate more at idle. It's not tooo hard to replace, just need to remove the intake manifold (use a new gasket), support the engine from underneath, then replace the mount.

It is normal for an auto to drop in rpm's a little when putting it in drive or reverse, but 1000rpm hot idle is too high. I'm a little stumped too, but start with the simple things and then we'll work to the more complicated ones. Is it possible to swap your IACV with a known working one?

Um. I don't see that being possible. I adjusted the idle up to 1000. makes the shaking less jarring. I can turn it back down i think. The intake manifold has to come off for that huh. That sucks. Had a hell of a time trying to get it off. Guess I will just have to give it a go.

[s2cmpugh]

Well when you adjusted the base idle with the IACV disconnected it should only be around 600, then plugged back in it should go back up to around 800 or so. Try checking for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and see if anything happens to the idle. It seems odd that the idle ONLY messes up when you put it in drive, but when you load up the electrical system it still idles normally. That makes me think the IACV is still working OK....reset base idle perfectly, check for vacuum leaks, then we'll go from there.

[drewams]

Well when you adjusted the base idle with the IACV disconnected it should only be around 600, then plugged back in it should go back up to around 800 or so. Try checking for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and see if anything happens to the idle. It seems odd that the idle ONLY messes up when you put it in drive, but when you load up the electrical system it still idles normally. That makes me think the IACV is still working OK....reset base idle perfectly, check for vacuum leaks, then we'll go from there.

Will do. You are a life saver for helping out. Can't explain how much it has been stressing me out. Looks like it may have to wait until tomorrow though. Storming a little here. Hopefully it will clear up. The idle is a little higher because I adjusted it there. The shaking at idle is super annoying and kind of embarassing lol. I will tune it and see about doing the motor mounts as soon as I can afford it. They are somewhat expensive from what I have found.

[drewams]

Alright. Update. Adjusted idle after bleeding coolant system and cleaning IACV and FITV. Park/neutral idle are perfect. Reverse/drive idle bad low. like 200-400 if it even stays running. Now I am throwing a CEL. Fml. I remember how to check these codes but gotta start on dinner. I will try to find out the code tonight. Ugh.

[s2cmpugh]

Will do. You are a life saver for helping out. Can't explain how much it has been stressing me out. Looks like it may have to wait until tomorrow though. Storming a little here. Hopefully it will clear up. The idle is a little higher because I adjusted it there. The shaking at idle is super annoying and kind of embarassing lol. I will tune it and see about doing the motor mounts as soon as I can afford it. They are somewhat expensive from what I have found.

Glad I could help dude! We got storms rolling thru too, and glad I finished up replacing my wiper linkages earlier. Definitely keep the idle set properly. You may want to also change your plugs, cap, rotor button, and fuel and air filters if those items haven't been done in a long time. IF you feel real adventurous, maybe clean out the EGR ports as that will make a nice difference.

Alright. Update. Adjusted idle after bleeding coolant system and cleaning IACV and FITV. Park/neutral idle are perfect. Reverse/drive idle bad low. like 200-400 if it even stays running. Now I am throwing a CEL. Fml. I remember how to check these codes but gotta start on dinner. I will try to find out the code tonight. Ugh.

CEL is actually a good thing now because we have something to diagnose per the computer! In this case, CEL IS your friend. Excellent job on bleeding the cooling system, cleaning the the FITV & IACV, and then setting base idle. We can cross those all those off the list. Pull the code, report back, and we'll continue on!

[drewams]

Ok. Well this is stressful. I am pulling codes 7, 12 and 14. TPS, EGR and IACV. Sigh.

[dj_ender]

Are all of these plugged in? It seems highly unlikely they would all show up at the same time. Did you get any if them mixed up, and is the vacuum line attached to the EGR?

[s2cmpugh]

Begin with the EGR since that is the simplest. Check all vacuum lines running to the EGR valve to make sure they are connected and the line itself is not cracked. Then check to make sure the electrical connector is firmly in place. If all those check out OK, then remove the EGR valve, clean it using carb cleaner and check to make sure the little rubber thing underneath isn't cracked or broken and moves OK. Reinstall using a new gasket, then hook everything back up. Here is a picture of a dirty and clean EGR valve http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...&highlight=egr Still consider cleaning out the EGR ports as well, especially if it's never been done. EGR valves do sometimes fail on these cars.

TPS: This one is a bit odd as a TPS rarely fails on a Honda. Make sure your throttle cable isn't too tight and still has some slack in it at hot idle. Have you changed or messed with the TPS in anyway? If so, here is a link showing how to properly reset the TPS http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...&highlight=tps TPS failing is extremely odd and rare, but if the throttle cable is too tight I guess it could throw it off.

For IACV...I can't find any proper tests on this one. Perform the other above cleanings/tests first and see what happens. I honestly doubt all three are bad at the same time, but it is possible....well anything is possible I guess.

Keep me posted and chin up!

Cris

[drewams]

Begin with the EGR since that is the simplest. Check all vacuum lines running to the EGR valve to make sure they are connected and the line itself is not cracked. Then check to make sure the electrical connector is firmly in place. If all those check out OK, then remove the EGR valve, clean it using carb cleaner and check to make sure the little rubber thing underneath isn't cracked or broken and moves OK. Reinstall using a new gasket, then hook everything back up. Here is a picture of a dirty and clean EGR valve http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...&highlight=egr Still consider cleaning out the EGR ports as well, especially if it's never been done. EGR valves do sometimes fail on these cars.

TPS: This one is a bit odd as a TPS rarely fails on a Honda. Make sure your throttle cable isn't too tight and still has some slack in it at hot idle. Have you changed or messed with the TPS in anyway? If so, here is a link showing how to properly reset the TPS http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...&highlight=tps TPS failing is extremely odd and rare, but if the throttle cable is too tight I guess it could throw it off.

For IACV...I can't find any proper tests on this one. Perform the other above cleanings/tests first and see what happens. I honestly doubt all three are bad at the same time, but it is possible....well anything is possible I guess.

Keep me posted and chin up!

Cris

Ok. I am retarded. I was messing with the TPS and EGR valve and they weren't plugged back in correctly. New IACV and FITV ordered. Found them relatively inexpensive. We shall see how that helps. I reset the ECU. No CEL for now. Still idles a little low in Reverse/Drive but doesn't die. It may just seem low to me because of the shaking I mentioned. Engine mounts more than likely. After recleaning the IACV - thats why I chose to replace it.

[s2cmpugh]

LOL, well those things unplugged would cause a CEL. Hopefully a new IACV will fix everything. If it still vibrates roughly at idle, then I'd look into the condition of the mounts.

Cris

[drewams]

LOL, well those things unplugged would cause a CEL. Hopefully a new IACV will fix everything. If it still vibrates roughly at idle, then I'd look into the condition of the mounts.

Cris

Thanks man. This whole situation has been kind of stressful. I think we got it figured out. CB7tuner is the business.

[s2cmpugh]

No problem. After you install the new IACV report back and let us know if everything is ok.