Another bogging problem

[winston101]

Ok so far this is the history. I did a 5 speed swap and everything went well, i used my old injector and fuel rail, computer, and o2 sensor, egr valve with the dizzy, 3 months later i was driving and the car started bogging hard. so hard that it created a backfire and blew my stock muffler in half.
so after that i changed the spark plug and coil pack, because the coil pack, it drove fine for one day then it started up again, to bog down and then shut off. tried to start it up again and nothing. went and brought a new dizzy, put it in and the car started right up.
after that a few days later was driving and it started to bog again, just normal city driving. it shut off on me and would not start up for a few second. when it did, it blew out my air charge sensor that is screwed into the lower half of the intake manifold. went home and had a extra so i put it in. car ran fine again. now it is starting to bog while driving again. when ever i rev the motor up to anything over 1.5k and hold it their the rpm start to bounce up and down and you can hear the motor break up. it does not hold the idle, it just sound like it is misfiring. i have changed the upper half of the manifold and the throttle body using new gasket. and still nothing. at normal idle 6-700 it is fine.

[winston101]

pr4 ecu.

i swap my ecu with the pr4 i wanted to know if it is safe to use it, or will it cause problem.

[cloudasc]

Have you thought about looking at the fuel supply system? Maybe you have a clogged fuel filter, fuel pump thats going out, or the Fuel Injection Main Relay might be acting up. I would also double check that your timing belt didn't jump a tooth, and that your timing is still correct.

[winston101]

New fuel filter, and where would the injector relay be located. and i swap ecu with a pr4 i had laying around and it stop bogging. the minute i put the stock ecu back in, it started again. so i think its the ecu. so i wanted to know about the pr4 stock in a accord.
also i was looking at the egr system, i was reading about the clog egr port on the manifold

[cloudasc]

New fuel filter, and where would the injector relay be located. and i swap ecu with a pr4 i had laying around and it stop bogging. the minute i put the stock ecu back in, it started again. so i think its the ecu. so i wanted to know about the pr4 stock in a accord.
also i was looking at the egr system, i was reading about the clog egr port on the manifold

The PGFI Main Relay is located under the the dash behind the cruise control computer. Takes about 5-10 minutes to get it out. As for the EGR system, you can effectively bypass it by plugging the vacuum hose with a screw or something, although it will cause a check engine light to eventually turn on after driving.

[winston101]

Well the egr I created a block off plate and placed it under the. Egr valve and so far no check engine light. I do plan to get a new fuel pump but I have a few other things to take care of first. Also I have checked the timing and it is correct. So I swap the computer with the pr4 and it run fine.so. is the ecu able to run the car safely till I can locate a computer. Or if I use the ex accord computer will that run the car or cause problem

[deevergote]

Ok... here goes.

1) why the hell are you using an Integra ECU? That fuel map is COMPLETELY wrong for your engine, and may have caused damage (from the sounds of it... I'd seriously doubt if your motor hasn't been damaged... a backfire that was so severe that it damaged your muffler? yeah... i bet you bent some valves with that one...)
You didn't say what engine you have... but I assume it's an F22A1/4/6, correct? Use a PT3 or P12 ECU for the first two, or a PT6 ECU for the F22A6. Those are the ONLY ECUs that should ever be used in stock form with those engines.

2) The bogging issue is very likely due to a bad o2 sensor. You said you used your old one... so chances are it was already on the way out. Replace it with NTK or Denso only. No Bosch, as they don't work for our cars (regardless of the fact that they say they make them for us... they don't work. Ever.)




Install a proper ECU, check for any error codes (via the CEL - Check Engine Light), and replace that o2 sensor. Then, if things are still wrong, we can look deeper.

Also, search for the threads on setting your base idle and base ignition timing, created by HondaFan81. Follow them.

[winston101]

Ok... here goes.

1) why the hell are you using an Integra ECU? That fuel map is COMPLETELY wrong for your engine, and may have caused damage (from the sounds of it... I'd seriously doubt if your motor hasn't been damaged... a backfire that was so severe that it damaged your muffler? yeah... i bet you bent some valves with that one...)
You didn't say what engine you have... but I assume it's an F22A1/4/6, correct? Use a PT3 or P12 ECU for the first two, or a PT6 ECU for the F22A6. Those are the ONLY ECUs that should ever be used in stock form with those engines.

2) The bogging issue is very likely due to a bad o2 sensor. You said you used your old one... so chances are it was already on the way out. Replace it with NTK or Denso only. No Bosch, as they don't work for our cars (regardless of the fact that they say they make them for us... they don't work. Ever.)




Install a proper ECU, check for any error codes (via the CEL - Check Engine Light), and replace that o2 sensor. Then, if things are still wrong, we can look deeper.

Also, search for the threads on setting your base idle and base ignition timing, created by HondaFan81. Follow them.

ok thanks for the information i will get the new o2 sensor. I only put the ecu into the car to test my old ecu to see if it would stop the car from bogging. it did because once i rev the motor with the pr4 computer. it held the idle with out breaking up, and then put the other stock ecu back into the car. it is also a stock lx motor. it was only a test and that was the only ecu i had, so i used it. but i never drove the car with that ecu.

The bogging that blew out my muffler was while i was using the stock ecu. the timing is correct and i also have read and done the base idle. the car is now fine at idle, it only breaks up while you rev it up, but like stated before. i shall get the o2 sensor that you said. i shall report back in a few days if any change.

thanks for the help.

[HondaFan81]

So you have the F22a1 engine then if you are 90-93 Accord LX.

I agree with the O2 sensor trial and potentially EGR if you get hesitations while driving between 1500-2500 RPMs.

What is your calculated gas mileage currently? What has been the "normal" for this engine in the past?

['93CB7Ex]

Sounds like possible ignitor.

[winston101]

Well update.... I changed the o2 sensor with a new denso and still the same problem. still break up while crusing. so i got the bright idea to check the spark plugs and i found oil. so this weekend i will be taking off the rocker arm cage to change the spark plug tube gasket. i do not think this will be the problem but i just want to fix this problem. so any more ideas guys.
so far i have changed coil pack, dizzy, spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, main relay, iacv gasket, fast idle gasket, throttle body and gasket, upper intake manifold and the gasket.

[winston101]

Also i have made a block off gasket for the egr valve and before the egr seemed to be working correctly. if anything the ports could be clogged but i do not think so, i seafoam the hell out of the motor and ever week or so i put fuel treatment into the tank to clean the injectors. but i would say i get 15 miles a gallon

[deevergote]

Oil on your spark plugs would certainly cause hesitation. It could also cause a violent backfire if the air/fuel mixture doesn't ignite due to an oil-covered plug, allowing the mixture to travel back to the catalytic converter... which would certainly get hot enough to ignite it.

['93CB7Ex]

Sounds like possible ignitor.

.

[deevergote]

A new dizzy (which he has) often comes with an ignitor. Plus, a failing ignitor will cause the tach to jump around... and that doesn't seem to be happening.