is there a certain amount that i have to put in while doing the tranny fluid change? do i have to put a perfect amount or something? my tranny is shifting a lil hard through the gears so thats why im going to do this cuz i don't think the fluid ever been changed.
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auto trans fluid change question
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Drain the old fluid, look at the color, should be red/pink. 2.5 to 3 qt, Honda ATF only. Do that for the next 2 oil changes. Or even 3. Make sure the dip stick check area is really clean before removing the dip stick. It's also the place where you pour your new fluid in. They cost about $10 a qt. First put in 2.5Qt, check the dip stick for level when engine is cold. Pour as needed until between low/high. Then start engine let it warm up. Check level again. After driving around, check level again. After driving the level might rise to high on the dip stick. Check level again after a day then a week. Look under right after park and in the morning to make sure there's no leak. Make sure you torque the 3/8" drain bolt correctly. 29 ft/lb with the 3/8 torque wrench. Make sure you replace the aluminum crush washer the first time. I didn't replace the following 2 times though. No leak on mine. Make sure you change the trans fluid every 30k miles. How's the brake fluid? Black? Change that too. Watch the paint with the brake fluid.
Have fun and always take your time.
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wow thats alot of work. . but if its worth the time ill do it, im not a mechanic my brother is so i guess hes gonna be doing this at his shop. . can i just drain the fluid then put the amount i need and call it a day ? or do i have to follow what you said? and i really dont know how my brake fluid is. ill check it. but its been messin up lately the pedal is going all the way to the floor.Originally posted by Bad_dude View Post2.5 to 3 qt, Honda ATF only. Do that for the next 2 oil changes. Or even 3. Make sure the dip stick check area is really clean before removing the dip stick. It's also the place where you pour your new fluid in. They cost about $10 a qt. First put in 2.5Qt, check the dip stick for level when engine is cold. Pour as needed until between low/high. Then start engine let it warm up. Check level again. After driving around, check level again. After driving the level might rise to high on the dip stick. Check level again after a day then a week. Look under right after park and in the morning to make sure there's no leak. Make sure you torque the 3/8" drain bolt correctly. 29 ft/lb with the 3/8 torque wrench. Make sure you replace the aluminum crush washer the first time. I didn't replace the following 2 times though. No leak on mine. Make sure you change the trans fluid every 30k miles. How's the brake fluid? Black? Change that too. Watch the paint with the brake fluid.
Have fun and always take your time.
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If your brake pedal has been going to the floor you might want to have that looked at before you have an accident. More than likely your brake master cylinder is or has gone bad.Originally posted by Ely585 View Postwow thats alot of work. . but if its worth the time ill do it, im not a mechanic my brother is so i guess hes gonna be doing this at his shop. . can i just drain the fluid then put the amount i need and call it a day ? or do i have to follow what you said? and i really dont know how my brake fluid is. ill check it. but its been messin up lately the pedal is going all the way to the floor.
I'd follow that other guy's procedure on how to change your tranny fluid but you can do it your way since it's your car. Then again you could just pay your brother the mechanic to do it and be done with it.
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yea i needa get that thing changed asap. cuz i need my brakes. i might as well just get a new master cylinder is there any other possible causes to this? . and i dont have to pay him i just gotta get the fluid bottles. . but i just hope he does it right. like how the other guy explainedOriginally posted by Leung View PostIf your brake pedal has been going to the floor you might want to have that looked at before you have an accident. More than likely your brake master cylinder is or has gone bad.
I'd follow that other guy's procedure on how to change your tranny fluid but you can do it your way since it's your car. Then again you could just pay your brother the mechanic to do it and be done with it.
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Most of the time if your pedal sinks all the way, it's usually the master cylinder. How's the fluid level? If it's not low, most likely the master cylinder. If your fluid keeps getting low then you have a leak and air is in your brake lines. Check the wheel cylinders in the rear if you got drums in the back. Check your front brakes. If there's no leak, fluid level is good, most likely the master cylinder.
The reason I recommend all that trans fluid change b/c when you drain, you don't remove all of the nasty old fluild. The whole trans take about 6-7qt. But just a drain, you only remove about 3 or less. Thus changing it more than once you basically mix old and new fluid until most of the old fluid is out. If your trans is rough, most likely your fluid is really old or your trans could be on its way out. Changing the fluid helps determine if the cause is just too old of fluid or the trans is bad.
Keeping your car well maintain is for your safety and the people that share the road with you. Particularly the brakes. It looks like your car has been neglected with fluids and perhaps other as well. While you are replacing the master cylinder, might just well get your whole brake system checked. Don't forget the power steering and coolant.
As for the trans fluid change, it's easy, why rely on some one else. Just jack the passenger's side front of the car up, remove the wheel, you'll see the nut for the trans on the side that just fit a 3/8 ratchet in. Turn it counter clockwise to remove the nut, it will drain. Don't forget to buy a long neck funnel. The tip your trans drain plug is magnetized. So check to see how much metal is on that nut, then clean it off before putting it back on. Another way to check to see how much metal is shedding off from your gear, though not too accurate, but only an estimate, I put a small size magnet into the old drained trans fluid and see how much metal is attract to it.Last edited by Bad_dude; 10-04-2011, 09:00 PM.
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Originally posted by Bad_dude View PostMost of the time if your pedal sinks all the way, it's usually the master cylinder. How's the fluid level? If it's not low, most likely the master cylinder. If your fluid keeps getting low then you have a leak and air is in your brake lines. Check the wheel cylinders in the rear if you got drums in the back. Check your front brakes. If there's no leak, fluid level is good, most likely the master cylinder.
The reason I recommend all that trans fluid change b/c when you drain, you don't remove all of the nasty old fluild. The whole trans take about 6-7qt. But just a drain, you only remove about 3 or less. Thus changing it more than once you basically mix old and new fluid until most of the old fluid is out. If your trans is rough, most likely your fluid is really old or your trans could be on its way out. Changing the fluid helps determine if the cause is just too old of fluid or the trans is bad.
Keeping your car well maintain is for your safety and the people that share the road with you. Particularly the brakes. It looks like your car has been neglected with fluids and perhaps other as well. While you are replacing the master cylinder, might just well get your whole brake system checked. Don't forget the power steering and coolant.
As for the trans fluid change, it's easy, why rely on some one else. Just jack the passenger's side front of the car up, remove the wheel, you'll see the nut for the trans on the side that just fit a 3/8 ratchet in. Turn it counter clockwise to remove the nut, it will drain. Don't forget to buy a long neck funnel. The tip your trans drain plug is magnetized. So check to see how much metal is on that nut, then clean it off before putting it back on. Another way to check to see how much metal is shedding off from your gear, though not too accurate, but only an estimate, I put a small size magnet into the old drained trans fluid and see how much metal is attract to it.
My brake fluid level is good. its full. so that means its the master cylinder i guess. ill have my bro look at the brake system when he have a chance. . and for the trans fluid change..yea i know that when u drain its not fully drained only some..i heard that if u do a tranny flush it can or will damage the transmission. but the trans shift through all the gear properly just a lil rough. i want to keep this car for a long time its my first car and i went with the wagon for a reason cuz they are rare and very nice. theres no power steering but i really dont care for it im use to it. . now back to trans fluid change. . i would do it my self but i dont wanna mess nothing up. ill take it the shop n have em do it on the lift. i hope when i do the fluid change itll act better. the only things really wrong with the wagon is the brake crap and the problem cold starting (it takes a couple key turns to start, most itll be is 3) and the rough shifting ..the tranny dont slip at all. . and some other lil shit thats easy fix. .
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ok. Did you bought your wagon with the PS deleted or the pump is disabled?
Dude, if I have a brother and he's a mechanic who works at the shop, I'll be all over him so I can learn more. I know little about cars but the labor cost is so outrageous I don't have a choice. Plus being unemployed, I have more time to take my time fixing it.
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the PS rack is there it makes noise when the car is on like i can hear it functioning i really dont know whats wrong. there is fluid in there. . and I try to learn when ever i have a chance. Im always on the forums reading and researching to gain more knowledge.Originally posted by Bad_dude View Postok. Did you bought your wagon with the PS deleted or the pump is disabled?
Dude, if I have a brother and he's a mechanic who works at the shop, I'll be all over him so I can learn more. I know little about cars but the labor cost is so outrageous I don't have a choice. Plus being unemployed, I have more time to take my time fixing it.
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I totally agree with this, and your procedure for changing the fluid.Originally posted by Bad_dude View PostThe reason I recommend all that trans fluid change b/c when you drain, you don't remove all of the nasty old fluild. The whole trans take about 6-7qt. But just a drain, you only remove about 3 or less. Thus changing it more than once you basically mix old and new fluid until most of the old fluid is out. If your trans is rough, most likely your fluid is really old or your trans could be on its way out. Changing the fluid helps determine if the cause is just too old of fluid or the trans is bad.
After the 3rd change, I'd recommend doing another drain and fill around 7500 miles to check the condition and contamination/gunk of the tranny fluid. If the drained fluid looks healthy, you can make the next interval at 10000 miles or whatever you like working yourself up to your regular change interval. I personally have my transmission fluid changed every 15k or so miles. I also had some wierd shifting issues with my transmission that this helped resolve (after i first got my car). I'd be sitting at a red light, it turns green, I press the accellerator and get moving to about 5-10mph, then it like hard shifted (kinda like a neut-drop, or unwanted launch control while at a roll) causing the tires to spin/chirp and the whole car to lurch forward.
First thing I do to any previously enjoyed new to me car... change all the fluids!Last edited by cloudasc; 10-05-2011, 02:57 AM.
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