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alternator load on engine

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    #1

    alternator load on engine

    alternator load on engine

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    Been doing alot of research on alternator amperage output as my alternator seems to be putting a "load" on my engine when all of my light's are on and then pressing the brake (making the brake light's come on). It get's even worse if I have the rear defrost and the wiper's on-and even worse while turning making the power steering pump give even more load on the engine. This is bogging down the idle speed by around 250-300 RPM's at idle! Of course then it starts shaking. I found this site with alot of info on amperage output from alternators at idle and thought someone here with a big system might have done this already. Trying to find a solution to this alternator "load" issue. So I guess I am asking when and how do our cars detect that it requires more amperage from an electrical component being turned on? (like brake light's) Would putting a higher amperage output alternator reduce the amount of load it is putting on my motor at idle? How much amperage is actually used by the brake lights? I am going to do some testing to try and confirm this. Could use some input
    http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/highampinfo.html

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    Last edited by WagonLX; Today at 11:27 AM.
    Last edited by WagonLX; 01-09-2012, 03:29 PM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    I don't know the answers to your questions.
    Adjust your idle speed and your problems will go away, or be less noticeable.
    I did and everything stopped acting up.
    MRT
    37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
    30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
    27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

    Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

    Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
    Originally posted by Tippey764
    I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
    Originally posted by deevergote
    sneaky motherfucker

    Comment

      #3
      First, you have used the full procedure for setting the base idle, correct? This also includes using a stand alone tach that is capable of reading at the most in 50rpm increments, the stock one isn't nearly accurate enough. There is a sticky to do this if you haven't.

      A momentary drop in rpm when adding additional loads is normal. If the alternator isn't able to quickly provide ample output and thus reduce the energy required to turn it you should check into whether your battery or alternator is no longer up to task. A properly functioning charging sytem should be able to maintain, or quickly achieve positive amperage at the battery. If it is always running negative at idle either the battery or alternator need replacement. Run a known good battery and check if the ouput still struggles (esp after starting) to quickly go to positive input. If it still takes a long time to provide positive amperage to a good battery the alternator is the likely culprit.

      As far as getting a larger alternator, your car would need to be drawing some serious excess amps to cause a good charging system to struggle, and would likely cause fuse blowing on the bad circuit. Unless you have a massive stereo system there is no reason to go above the OE alternator amperage rating.

      The alternator functions by reading the battery voltage (through the wire in the 2 pin connector on the alt) and determines if it needs to power the field coil windings. Once input voltage is equal to about 13.5-14.5 volts it turns off the windings. If the battery is in poor health the voltage available to power these windings is too low to produce the rated amperage, thus causing excessively long powered times to replenish the battery. That in turn causes excess heat in the alternator slowing the charge output even more.

      There is a sensor on the power steering rack to tell the ecu to step-up the rpm if the steering is being used without throttle being applied. Yours may not be working adding to your issue.

      Hope some or all of this helps.

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