H23 Intake manifold swap help

[tabaccord19]

Okay here is my problem and hopefully someone has an answer. I did the H23 intake manifold swap but haven't hooked up the black box to the ECU yet. (The plug is in but I ran the wires to power and ground to keep the butterflies closed) That being said though isn't the problem I am having. My problem is that the engine is surging until it gets warmed up then will stop. I don't have any vacuum leaks and everything seems to be hooked up correctly. I was hoping someone who has done this swap may know where the problem lies.

Also on a side note. The throttle cable isn't long enough to fit like it is supposed to be I bent the retainer a bit but the gas pedal is very sinsitive and when shifting the engine will rev then slow down. (when taking my foot off the gas there is also a delay when the car actually realizes that.)

[Jarrett]

Your surging idle is likely due to the fact that you have air bubbles in the coolant after removing the FITV and IACV. Bleed the coolant system.

[tabaccord19]

Okay thanks sounds good. I'll let you know if that was it.

[dj_ender]

Also on a side note. The throttle cable isn't long enough to fit like it is supposed to be I bent the retainer a bit but the gas pedal is very sinsitive and when shifting the engine will rev then slow down. (when taking my foot off the gas there is also a delay when the car actually realizes that.)

Yes it does. You either have to use a bracket from I BELIEVE a CD, or you can do what I did and drill new holes in your CB bracket, like so:

[tabaccord19]

Your surging idle is likely due to the fact that you have air bubbles in the coolant after removing the FITV and IACV. Bleed the coolant system.

Bleeding didn't work. Any other ideas?

[GhostAccord]

FIT valve out of adjustment maybe? If your throttle cable is too tight it could be holding the throttle plate open a bit as well.

Also did you remember to rest your ECU after the swap?

[tabaccord19]

FIT valve out of adjustment maybe? If your throttle cable is too tight it could be holding the throttle plate open a bit as well.

Also did you remember to rest your ECU after the swap?

Yea checked on that. Could it be because that thermo valve isn't on the prelude intake manifold but on the stock one for the accord lx

[GhostAccord]

Are you using an H23 throttle body or the F22A?

The FIT valve is located under the throttle body on the H23.

If your using your F22A TB then you do not have a FIT valve installed. Therefore being out of adjustment would not be the issue. However now your engine no longer has a FIT valve installed. Did you do the ECU reset procedure? If not give that a try and see if that does anything for you.

[tabaccord19]

Are you using an H23 throttle body or the F22A?

The FIT valve is located under the throttle body on the H23.

If your using your F22A TB then you do not have a FIT valve installed. Therefore being out of adjustment would not be the issue. However now your engine no longer has a FIT valve installed. Did you do the ECU reset procedure? If not give that a try and see if that does anything for you.

The ECU reset didn't work I am using the H23 TB because of the larger opening which goes better with the IM. The hunting isn't much of a problem just an annoyance while the engine heats up while I am idleing. Sounds like I am trying to race someone by reving my motor even when my foot is off the gas. The throttle cable isn't too tight. I made sure of that too when I was working on the car the other day.

[GhostAccord]

Do you have the FIT valve under the throttle body hooked up?

[Oreellyfool]

I had the infamous bouncing idle on my h22a. I could not figure it out for the life of me(Bleeding water adjusting TPS.....), took it into a shop, they determined it was the FIT, so I paid them to fix it. Guess what it did nothing. Called them back and they said it was my IACV then, so I replaced it and bled the water again.... did nothing.

So after many months of just driving it and searching for a solution, I found a guy who said to turn the FIT all the way in. Guess what, it fixed my bouncing idle. To say the least I was not too happy with that one.

But try turning the FIT all the way in , or almost all the way in.

[tabaccord19]

I had the infamous bouncing idle on my h22a. I could not figure it out for the life of me(Bleeding water adjusting TPS.....), took it into a shop, they determined it was the FIT, so I paid them to fix it. Guess what it did nothing. Called them back and they said it was my IACV then, so I replaced it and bled the water again.... did nothing.

So after many months of just driving it and searching for a solution, I found a guy who said to turn the FIT all the way in. Guess what, it fixed my bouncing idle. To say the least I was not too happy with that one.

But try turning the FIT all the way in , or almost all the way in.

What exactly do you mean by turning the FIT all the way in?

[GhostAccord]

If you take the brass end plate off the FIT valve cylinder and look inside. There will be a white plunger with a brass nipple in the center. There should be a line in the plunger that you can use a flat tip screw driver to turn. Turn it all the way in and it will basically delete/make the FIT valve inoperable.

[C91BLX7]

Also make sure your base idle is correctly set via the brass screw on the tb.

[tabaccord19]

Also make sure your base idle is correctly set via the brass screw on the tb.

yea the base idle is good. When warmed up the idle is right below 1000 so I know that is good.. I was googleing some stuff and I found some way older posts that didn't come up during the search when I was looking for this problem. I think I hooked up a few wrong things because I couldn't find the FITV so I will try it out later on today after my buddy with his WRX replaces his power steering pump... (he is a mechanic and was baffled by this hunting mystery)