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*** Engine Stalling !! Fuel Pump or Ignition ? ***

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    *** Engine Stalling !! Fuel Pump or Ignition ? ***

    Okay, i have a very strange problem with my F22A1 these day's......The engine stall after 1 hours of Driving. The RPM is floatting Up/Down when i was driving on the Ville-Marie Highway,not alot of power on the pedal gas but I just have time to take the Exit and park the car. No check engine at all.

    Do you think it's the Fuel Pump ? or the Ignition Coil ? ... So i spent couple of dollar's on a New Battery, New Connector,New 4 guage Ground,New Ignitor Module,New Cap Dist.,New Rotor,New NGK Spark Plugs Wires,New NGK Spark Plugs,New Fuel Filter,New Radiator with Prestone(Bleed the system),New Oil Change(ENEOS(nippon) Synthetic GF-5 oil),New Honda Oil Filter.

    Run the car for 5 or 6 hours, and again same problem , the RPM start to Float Up Down , lost of power on the pedal gas, low rpm and stall.......I listen to the Fuel Pump and yes the fuel pump Open. But the engine dont start, just Crank.

    I try this morning after 24hours, and the engine start A1, firts crank, after one hours at the idle, the RPM start to drop down,rough idle and stall.....The engine just crank and dont Start... No check ENGINE!


    There some parts that i didn't change on my CB7 ( FUEL PUMP, EXT. IGNITION COIL , O2 SENSOR)



    HELP !
    Last edited by LivErN; 02-04-2012, 06:29 PM.

    #2
    Does the engine's RPM change, or just the tachometer? If it's just the tach, then your ignitor is going bad. If the engine is actually changing RPM, it could be a number of things. Fuel seems to be most likely, since a slow loss of fuel pressure will cause the engine to die out, whereas a lack of spark would usually just cause the engine to cut off suddenly.

    A failing o2 sensor can cause a loss of power in a certain RPM range. I've had that happen to me.


    The best thing to do is check for fuel and spark when the car won't start. Whatever is causing it not to start will most likely be what is causing your problems while running.






    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by deevergote View Post
      Does the engine's RPM change, or just the tachometer? If it's just the tach, then your ignitor is going bad. If the engine is actually changing RPM, it could be a number of things. Fuel seems to be most likely, since a slow loss of fuel pressure will cause the engine to die out, whereas a lack of spark would usually just cause the engine to cut off suddenly.

      A failing o2 sensor can cause a loss of power in a certain RPM range. I've had that happen to me.


      The best thing to do is check for fuel and spark when the car won't start. Whatever is causing it not to start will most likely be what is causing your problems while running.

      Tachnometer at firts and after its the Engine RPM goes very low ... loss of power and stall.


      I have three spark plug that have alot of oil in it, but i ran the car for 3 years like that. Yess i will change the Cover Valve Gasket

      The IGNITOR is brand new, cost me 114$CND.

      But after i've change it , the car was running A1 for 6 hours at least, and stall.......


      I can check the Spark and Fuel pressure when the engine start to ''buck'' just before he stall..... ?
      Last edited by LivErN; 02-04-2012, 06:38 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        If the engine RPM is actually changing, and not just the tach, then it's probably not the ignitor. However, don't ever assume that just because a part is new that it can't be bad. I've seen too many people in the past waste money replacing the wrong parts because they refused to admit that a new part is faulty. It happens.

        However, I don't think this is an ignitor issue. The oil in the spark plugs could be a big part of it. It's been like that for 3 years, so it's likely been getting worse. That, or it's been causing damage, like clogging your catalytic converter (which is not supposed to deal with burning oil.)






        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by deevergote View Post
          If the engine RPM is actually changing, and not just the tach, then it's probably not the ignitor. However, don't ever assume that just because a part is new that it can't be bad. I've seen too many people in the past waste money replacing the wrong parts because they refused to admit that a new part is faulty. It happens.

          However, I don't think this is an ignitor issue. The oil in the spark plugs could be a big part of it. It's been like that for 3 years, so it's likely been getting worse. That, or it's been causing damage, like clogging your catalytic converter (which is not supposed to deal with burning oil.)

          The guy at the Parts Shop, said, that it's my problem, i need to fix that before. Oil in spark plugs can burn an Ignitor and Coil. So maybe i blow the new Ignitor after 6 hours , but why now ? In the Winter..? .......... My uncle say its the Fuel Pump...

          For the Catalyc converter ... i gonna take it out if you say that
          Last edited by LivErN; 02-04-2012, 06:46 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            It may be the fuel pump, and it may not be. The evidence provided so far doesn't point to anything in particular just yet. You're in Montreal, so I assume there are a lot of rusty cars up there... therefore, changing your fuel pump will be a major hassle, as all the hardware that is holding your fuel tank in place is going to be very rusty. It will all most likely need to be replaced, and it won't be fun getting it out. Best to rule out other issues before assuming it's the fuel pump.

            First, fix what you KNOW is wrong, such as those spark plug tube seals. Fix all known problems first, and then try to diagnose the unknown.






            Comment


              #7
              Okay thank's buddy !

              I've change the fuel tank on my other CB Sedan and it was a pain in the @$* !

              But this CB got alot of Anti-Rust since 1993 and i'm the second owner since 68,000km !

              I will change the Tube Seals, Honda sell a Gasket Kit for 60$ ..! Clean the Wires and plugs with brake cleaner and check if they leak again.
              Last edited by LivErN; 02-04-2012, 06:57 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                Good thinking. And next time the car won't start, check to see what you aren't getting. If you're not getting spark, then you don't have to worry about fuel!

                The fuel pump may indeed be the issue... but it's best to be sure before you start tearing things apart. It's not exactly a pleasant experience, and best to be avoided if it's not necessary!






                Comment


                  #9
                  I use the ether/starting fluid trick to see if its a fuel or ignition related problem. If you spray the ether/starting fluid in the intake, and the car starts up and dies immediately, its a fuel related issue. If the starting fluid does nothing, its an ignition related issue, unless its somehow related to the movement of air in and out of the engine, like a clogged catalytic converter.
                  PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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