code 41

[youngflyndsaved]

I have a 91 LX Accord with an h22a swap. I did the swap about a year ago and never ran an o2 sensor due to the fact that i've never came across a downpipe with an o2 outlet that would fit my Spoon Sports header. Well recently i came across one and installed it this past weekend but i'm still getting a MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) code. Or CEL as everyone else calls it. I jumped the service connector and came across 23 Knock sensor (my block didn't come with one under the manifold, would anyone know why? Do type S motors have them in a different location?) and 41 HO2S which is o2 sensor, but i also hear 43 is o2 sensor related.

I'm running my old stock Accord f22a1 o2 sensor on this p13 ecu and wondering if that's the problem. Do i need an h22a specific oxygen sensor? Or is my o2 sensor just bad?

[cloudasc]

41 is the o2 heater circuit if I remember correctly. It very well could be a bad o2 sensor, or somethings wrong with the wire/connectors for the o2 sensor.

If you have a type s motor you really could benefit from a "tune" over running the p13. Plus with a "chipped" and "tuned" ecu you would be able to disable the knock sensor and no longer get a check engine light for it.

[deevergote]

41 and 43 are both almost always o2 sensor codes (41 always is).
The fact that your sensor came from your F22 isn't the problem. The fact that it's old is!

Replace the o2 sensor with one that is correct for your 91 LX (not the H22, the one that is correct for your car, so you can use the stock wiring... if you haven't hacked it up already.)
Remember... Denso or NGK/NTK only. No other brand works properly! Rockauto.com has good prices.

[youngflyndsaved]

Yes the code is heated oxygen sensor and i plan on getting the knock sensor delete whenever i obtain enough general knowledge about the whole chipping/tuning process. As far as the whole type S motor thing i've never been sure exactly if my motor is or not, that's why i did not claim it to be in my first post. Next time i pop open the valve cover for any reason i'll inspect for the blueish tint, any casting marks, or when i remove my header i'll see if the ports are any different or smoother compared to my spare jdm head.

NGK is all i trust . My o2 is the original one that came with the car, which has over 210,000+ miles on it so yes it's VERY old . My speed sensor stopped working at 210k miles on my f22a1 and that was around 2007 when it stopped working.

~Anyways, does the place of an o2 sensor's location dictate which o2 you will specifically need? I plan on getting a new NTK o2 sensor. I've been looking it up on their site and the f22a1 and f22a6 have different parts numbers(#24042 & #24169) so i'm not sure which one to purchase. The reason why i mention this is because i know an a1 manifold has the o2 outlet on the header and an a6 has it on the downpipe. I am now running a Spoon header (no o2 outlet) and an a6 downpipe with the o2 outlet on it. Maybe this could be the reason i'm getting code 41.

[wed3k]

check the resistance on the heater circuit.

[youngflyndsaved]

check the resistance on the heater circuit.

How would i do that exactly? As in where is it located and would i need a multimeter to do so?

My car temperature does begin to overheat sometimes would that have anything to do with it as well? Like if i started it up and let it idle alone after awhile it wouldn't overheat, but only sometimes when i drive for a long time and park and let it idle the temperature will begin overheating so i shut it off and my fan will cut on only after the ignition is off.

[cloudasc]

How would i do that exactly? As in where is it located and would i need a multimeter to do so?

My car temperature does begin to overheat sometimes would that have anything to do with it as well? Like if i started it up and let it idle alone after awhile it wouldn't overheat, but only sometimes when i drive for a long time and park and let it idle the temperature will begin overheating so i shut it off and my fan will cut on only after the ignition is off.

For testing the 02 sensor, check out this thread http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=2980009

As for your second issue with overheating, I think its has to do with your thermoswitch. From the sound of it, I would say the lower temp one is bad, the one closest to the thermostat if my memory serves me correctly.

[youngflyndsaved]

For testing the 02 sensor, check out this thread http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=2980009

As for your second issue with overheating, I think its has to do with your thermoswitch. From the sound of it, I would say the lower temp one is bad, the one closest to the thermostat if my memory serves me correctly.

Thank you for pointing me in that direction, as i am going to replace my o2 with a new NTK regardless but code 43 is not what i'm getting it's 41. I am going to check voltage when i get a volt meter just to be safe. 41 is heated o2 sensor and i'm thinking i may be getting that because my o2 does not get as hot as it normally would if it was located at the header. I now it have it at the downpipe and my original o2 may be only manufactured for a header location. Does that seem possible? Or am i wrong thinking "heated o2 sensor" actually has to do with temperature lol.

However in the thread u guided me to i noticed in check#1 it says when your engine reaches operating temperature your fan is supposed to cut on, mine does not cut on at all. So it's telling me either my switch or thermostat is bad as u stated.

And to Deeve, i forgot to mention but no i did not hack up my o2 harness at all. When i did my swap i just extended the wires to reach.

[Oreellyfool]

Thank you for pointing me in that direction, as i am going to replace my o2 with a new NTK regardless but code 43 is not what i'm getting it's 41. I am going to check voltage when i get a volt meter just to be safe. 41 is heated o2 sensor and i'm thinking i may be getting that because my o2 does not get as hot as it normally would if it was located at the header. I now it have it at the downpipe and my original o2 may be only manufactured for a header location. Does that seem possible? Or am i wrong thinking "heated o2 sensor" actually has to do with temperature lol.

However in the thread u guided me to i noticed in check#1 it says when your engine reaches operating temperature your fan is supposed to cut on, mine does not cut on at all. So it's telling me either my switch or thermostat is bad as u stated.

And to Deeve, i forgot to mention but no i did not hack up my o2 harness at all. When i did my swap i just extended the wires to reach.

Hey man,

When i wrote that write up you were reading, it will work for codes 1, 41, and 43.

I wrote it because I was randomly throwing a 43 then it would go to 41 and other times it would throw a code 1. In my case it ended up being a wire from the ECU to the O2 sensor. I ended up having to run a new wire completely because I could never determine if it was a broken wire or a plug not having a solid connection.

I did the same thing as you when I moved my O2 from the header location to the downpipe. I stripped back the wire cover but did not cut any wires. But I think in my case, just moving around old wires too much did the trick and caused me to replace the wire.

My advice is to run the checks in my write up. At least they should be able to point you in the right direction.

And the location of the O2 sensor does not matter on which O2 sensor to use. You will want to use the O2 sensor for your stock setup even if you moved it because the EX/SE have a reversed plug from the LX/DX.

[youngflyndsaved]

Hey man,

When i wrote that write up you were reading, it will work for codes 1, 41, and 43.

I wrote it because I was randomly throwing a 43 then it would go to 41 and other times it would throw a code 1. In my case it ended up being a wire from the ECU to the O2 sensor. I ended up having to run a new wire completely because I could never determine if it was a broken wire or a plug not having a solid connection.

I did the same thing as you when I moved my O2 from the header location to the downpipe. I stripped back the wire cover but did not cut any wires. But I think in my case, just moving around old wires too much did the trick and caused me to replace the wire.

My advice is to run the checks in my write up. At least they should be able to point you in the right direction.

And the location of the O2 sensor does not matter on which O2 sensor to use. You will want to use the O2 sensor for your stock setup even if you moved it because the EX/SE have a reversed plug from the LX/DX.

I appreciate you chiming in, and clearing up the location problem as well. I am going to use the checks in your write-up to diagnose when and if i can get my hands on a volt meter. Changing a complete wire sounds like a hassle so i'm hoping it's not that. My car never bogs or sputters like Cloudasc's problem was, i actually feel it pulling and accelerating alot smoother ever since i installed my sensor.

In your write-up you should edit and add that code 41 and 1 may pop up, because it didn't state anything about those codes in the original post. It could potentially help out other members who come across these problems and when they search for either code it'll match words in the search results .

[cloudasc]

I appreciate you chiming in, and clearing up the location problem as well. I am going to use the checks in your write-up to diagnose when and if i can get my hands on a volt meter. Changing a complete wire sounds like a hassle so i'm hoping it's not that. My car never bogs or sputters like Cloudasc's problem was, i actually feel it pulling and accelerating alot smoother ever since i installed my sensor.

In your write-up you should edit and add that code 41 and 1 may pop up, because it didn't state anything about those codes in the original post. It could potentially help out other members who come across these problems and when they search for either code it'll match words in the search results .

I was having code 43 specific problem, yours is 41, but that guide provided all the information required for testing the o2, that's why I pointed you there.

The overheating issue is mainly a bad thermoswitch from the sounds of it. As for your thermostat, it would do no harm to initially visually inspect it, and test it for proper operation, otherwise it new oem one can be had for under $20 from the local honda dealership.

[Oreellyfool]

I appreciate you chiming in, and clearing up the location problem as well. I am going to use the checks in your write-up to diagnose when and if i can get my hands on a volt meter. Changing a complete wire sounds like a hassle so i'm hoping it's not that. My car never bogs or sputters like Cloudasc's problem was, i actually feel it pulling and accelerating alot smoother ever since i installed my sensor.

In your write-up you should edit and add that code 41 and 1 may pop up, because it didn't state anything about those codes in the original post. It could potentially help out other members who come across these problems and when they search for either code it'll match words in the search results .

No problem man!! Hopefully you find your problem!

Good call on adding in the 41/1 codes, maybe I can get a mod to change the title for me.

(Running anew wire was not too bad once you figure out how to pull the pins out of the O2 connector and the ECU plug)

[dj_ender]

No problem man!! Hopefully you find your problem!

Good call on adding in the 41/1 codes, maybe I can get a mod to change the title for me.

(Running anew wire was not too bad once you figure out how to pull the pins out of the O2 connector and the ECU plug)

done.

[Oreellyfool]

done.

sweet thanks man!

[youngflyndsaved]

progress but still not solved

Well here's the progress.

I have my fixed my radiator fan problem, i replaced the thermostat sensor with one off a cb7 from a junkyard and the fan relay in the fuse box. On top of that when i went to go disconnect the plug for the thermostat sensor, i noticed the wires heading into the connector's plastic housing were exposed from being stretched from trying to fit the H22A's slightly larger size. A mistake on my part and i will try and post pics when i have a chance. I cut a pigtail from my spare harness and soldered it, my fan now runs at a certain temp while the engine is on . But still doesn't cut on when i fully warm it up, only when it gets to a higher temp. Which i'm sure that's how it should properly work. Previously the fan only worked when the engine overheated and i would turn the engine off.

I have also bought a new NTK oxygen sensor (i have an LX so i bought an oxygen sensor which is part # 24042 - DX/LX engine harness are the same and EX harness uses a reverse connector which is part # 24169) and put it in but i am still getting code 41. I have done several sensor tests from Helms, on here, and Haynes manuals. The Helms manual told me measure the OHM resistance between the terminals C and D on the oxygen sensor, which i get 15-20 when the car is warmed. The Haynes manual and Oreellyfool's thread said check the resistance between terminals A and B on the oxygen sensor, which i get no resistance at all...
-I'm a little confused at that part so maybe if someone can clear it up. Not saying anybody is wrong but i get two different types of advice there. Would this be the reason why i am still getting code 41? I am willing to modify my engine harness connector by switching the terminal wires/pins that are A&B located with the ones that are C&D located, if someone can promise me that i will not f#@& anything up by doing so lol. That's if you intelligent tech guys on here think that may be my problem.

To add on i have ran two new wires to my engine harness connector for the o2 sensor. The blk/ylw to a 12v source and the org/blk wire straight to the ECU pin A6. The checks told me to measure voltage between those two and i get like around 15v when i check voltage between them. Is that too much?
-Well i did those two wires and still got the CEL code 41. So i changed the wht/red on the engine harness connector and ran it straight to ECU to pin D14, just to see if that would fix and still no change. I probably would have changed out the green wire too but 1 i haven't figured out where that one runs to lol and 2 GhostAccord said only the other two wires i first replaced were Heated O2 Sensor related.

I'm beginning to think it's my ECU but don't have access to a spare one so i'm setting money aside to get one. Sorry for this long ass story but i'm trying to be descriptive as possible so you fellow members can help me solve my problem . And so when someone who has the same problem searches and this comes up, it won't be like all the other threads with no follow up or no stated solution to the problem.