all 4 windows dont work detailed work

[cspeade]

ok so back story problem and then what i have done.
i got a 1993 accord lx with 199000 5 speed red interior love the cb7 and this is my first one as well as my first honda. i got this in a trade.
the dash didnt work windows didnt work and thermostate housing leaked water. the clock also wasnt on but the radio worked.

when i got the car nothing on the dash worked. no gauges at all. car turned on and ran and drove no problems. went to the junk yard and got a different master power relay. that didnt work so i went to the junk yard and got a differnet cluster. put that in and it was all back words. left turn signal flashed the oil light etx. so i plugged in the old cluster and poked around the car. i had checked the fuses etc. well when i put the origional back in it worked perfect. ok that was easy.

the power windows also didnt work. so i took the master switch from my buddies cb7 and put it onto mine. didnt work. so so check all the fuses again. all is good. so i take a voltmeter and check the four fuse post in the box under the hood. the post for the front right front left and rear lleft rear right. they have 12 volts across them. awesome. fuses are good have 0 to 1 ohm resistance. look at the bigger fuses all good remove them and look great. under the dash there where fuses that were too big so i replaced them for the right sizes. i take my volt meter and there is a 10 amp fuse in the box for power windows. there is no voltage across the post with the key on. so i go to the plug for the master switch. i have 12 volts at the pins that are the power leads. good. take resistance reading of the master switch and get different reading when actuating the switches. cool. so i take the ground off the thermostat clean it and put back also the ground boxes to the left of the battery and next to the windshield washer fill tube. clean the battery post real nice. put the switch back on and try it and nothing. pulled the window control unit out of the door,the plug looks fine and the circuit card inside looks fine. no burning pitting. so i take some wire and try to look at the bs diagrams on google for the windows and try to jump them at the master plug. take power to a window to go down and take the other side to the ground on the plug and couldnt get any window to do anything at all. have tried each winodw at that door and made sure the lock out was in the off position.n so i take the relay in the box and swap it with the cooling fan nothing. with the key on i can remove the relay and when inserting it loosely it will click so i know its working and making the connection.
i dont know what is going on

i cant find anyone that has had a similar problem and i dont understand what the problem is. im waiting for my buddy to come home so i can put his window control unit in my car and see if that magicaly makes it work. if anyone has some ideas or anything that would be appreciated

Also does the multiplex integrated control unit icu have anything to do with the the power windows. i dont have the radio in the car but the lights for the ash tray and cigarette lighter dont work.

[wherm]

have you verified that the power window motors actually work? I know you tried jumping wires, but I would suggest using two wires and an external power source. It could be a 18v cordless drill battery, a jumper pack, etc. Unplug the window regulator and run wires from the terminals to your power source and see if the window moves. Reverse the wires to move it the opposite direction. At least this way you know the motors work for sure.

[JDMDriver]

Multiple power window motor failure is unheard of and unlikely so I would rule out the window motors as the problem.

You have changed the master switch and still didnt work. So i would also rule our the master switch.

You mentioned you can pick up power to all the four windows. So the +ve side can be ruled out (that also includes the fuse since you are getting power).

I would suggest tracing and confirming you are getting the -ve side. Without a solid -ve connection you willl not have a circuite (hence no working power).

Clean and wiggle the connectors/connection. There may be corrosion or oxidation (which is not noticable).

At worse I would directly put power to the master switch (both +ve and -ve from a battery). That way you can check all windows at once.

Note: If you are to power anything directly (without a fuse) you can fry things up in no time and have more to fix in your hands. As with anything electrical I would recommend checking, double checking and triple checking (even if there was a fuse). Electric work goes wrong in milliseconds (upon contact) if it was fundamentally incorrect. Then you have hours to fix the error that being all excited and in a hurry had created.

[JDMDriver]

Im only guessing here but the car may have been idle for a very long time.

If the car has been exposed to direct weather the windows may have binded.

All 4 windows binding at the same time (esp if not used) can logically occur.

I suggest listening (pref in the dead of night where no traffic or noise is present) to hear any minute movement or electric motor noise when operated.

If it has binded (and you can tell there is some movement confirming the motor is alive) try to assist the window by the palms of your hand one on either side of the window (and another person operating the switch at the same time). Spray some silicone to assist with the releasing of the window if it hasnt been used in a long time.

[cspeade]

ok so my buddy came by and i put his window control unit (white box inside the door forward of the main switch) and nothing happened. even tried putting his master switch on my car with his box plugged in. nothing so i put my white box back on and master switch. and we were talking about it and messing with some of the stuff and i decided to jump the box inside the hood where the relay goes and that was it. had to jump the two post forward most in the car. and all the windows went down. the passenger front and drivers rear didnt go up. put his master swithc on and all the windows worked as they should but the passenger front is off track so gotta mess with taht. but why would it work if i jump the post at the relay and not work with the relay i even tried putting the relays out of his car into mine and it didnt work??? does anyone know why this is

the power window relay in the box under the hood. standing at the passenger front tire looking at the car the two post forward with the relay removed.

this makes sure the windows and motors work and what is there in the electrical system that is not sending the signal to the relay to send out to the windows.??? and yes the car has been sitting. there is a oil change sticker that is not that far off from whats on the od from 2010. guy i got it from said he got it from someone that had it sitting for a little bit. has a little bad gas in the car.

[FamousFreak]

I am having this same problem in my other cb.
Could it possibly be the ICU? (integrated control unit)

[accordztech]

Go through the FSM and diagnose the system.

If you think about it, the regulator doesnt have power...so the switch doesnt have power...its something else. Your wasting your time changing parts without testing. You could of tested power at the regulator and if you didnt see anything, then there was no point on trying another regulator...same goes for the switch.

Go through the FSM and do a pinpoint diagnostic test. It can be anything from a relay, to wiring.

[FamousFreak]

I did the same thing that the OP did.
Just jumped the two forward most terminals in the fuse box under the relay and they work.
Only problem is they work even when the car is off and key is out of the ignition.
And yes i know they are supposed to do that but only until the door is open.

[FamousFreak]

Does anyone have a clue what the problem could be?

[Bad_dude]

Go to the junkyard, pull a relay and test with that. Pull the battery, clean the contacts for the relay before replacing. See if that works. I know Toyotas some times have relays problem particularly with blowers and power windows.

[FamousFreak]

Ive done that more than once.
Still nothing.
Any more ideas?

[accordztech]

Go through the FSM and diagnose the system.

If you think about it, the regulator doesnt have power...so the switch doesnt have power...its something else. Your wasting your time changing parts without testing. You could of tested power at the regulator and if you didnt see anything, then there was no point on trying another regulator...same goes for the switch.

Go through the FSM and do a pinpoint diagnostic test. It can be anything from a relay, to wiring.

[HenRoc]

were you able to find out what was exactly wrong with it? Im having the same issue with my car.

I'm leaning towards an Integrated Control Unit.

[Bad_dude]

were you able to find out what was exactly wrong with it? Im having the same issue with my car.

I'm leaning towards an Integrated Control Unit.

So where's the ICU located?
Thanks.

[HenRoc]

The problem is in my coupe, my cluster does not work, the charge light, and high beam indicators work but nothing else, including the power windows even the clock does not work. I'm currently trying to trace the problem but I haven't come up with anything yet.

The Integrated Control Unit is located in the fuse panel inside the car. It's a brown box with two connectors, a green connector that plugs in on the side and a built in connector in the back that plugs into the fuse panel.

This is what it controls:

The integrated control unit consists of the following
circuits combined in a single control unit.

Refer to the section listed for the remainder of the circuit:

Windshield Wiper/Washer
(Intermittent Wiper Control Circuit)

Turn Signal and Hazard Lights
(Side Marker Flasher Relay Circuit)

Seat Belt, Key-on Reminders
(Seat Belt/Key-in Beeper Circuit)

Lights-on Reminders
(Lights-on Reminder Circuit)

Low Oil Pressure Indicator System
(Low Oil Pressure Flasher Circuit)

Rear Window Defogger
(Rear Window Defogger Timer Circuit)



Now with the Integrated Control Unit you have to get the SAME exact part number from a similar car with the same options i.e if you have a manual EX you have to get that same part number from a similar car. If you use a different part numbered ICU then it won't work properly.



For the EX trim line here are the part numbers.

A/T coupes are :

38600-SM5-A02

A/T sedans are :

38600-SM4-A02

I'll be researching the manual EX coupes and sedans , as well as the LX,and DX.

Unless anyone on here can kindly contribute to this thread, I'm going to ask Deevs permission to sticky this once I figure out the problem and make a small trouble shooting guide for it.

:edit:

Check the back up meter fuse. I just did and it was blown.