Ok guys, I am about at my wits end with this new trick my cars been doing, and where i live, its started to become dangerous. My 91 LX 5spd has been having issues once it heats up. It will sputter randomly, and eventually die, and sometimes it will start right back up, and sometimes it will take several tries. It has been completely random, and with little warning, sometimes it will sputter once, or not at all, then die, or sometimes it will sputter a bunch, and die once i reach home. When the cars warmed up, and under hard acceleration, the tach needle swings frantically, and the car will sputter and miss(not just the tach acting stupid) and soon after, usually, it dies the next time it comes close to idle. When it dies, is the only time i get a CEL, which threw 2 codes, a 3(MAP sensor) and a 7(TPS) I did pull the dizzy cap, and adjust the igniter wires, and it seemed to help the problem, no sputtering for a few weeks, but it has since returned. Car is basically stock, with only a K&N cone filter, eBay manifold back exhaust. Parts I've replaced since I've gotten the car: New, complete dizzy, new ECU, battery, spark plugs, wires, TPS and fuel filter. Now, I've searched for a month, and have found everything from an EGR clog, bad upstream o2 sensor, bad plug wires, to a bad igniter, but the symptoms never quite seem to be the same. Thanks for any and all suggestions and help, I LOVE this car to death, but its been driving me nuts trying to troubleshoot.
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Have you by chance ever changed the main relay ?
A man that keeps looking back can't see whats in front of him. -
Havent changed it, but replaced it when the car was a no start. No change. So then went to next logical, the dizzy, and the car was fine for a few months.Comment
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Update.... car did it a few times tonight, once in the middle of an intersection, almost causing an accident. Spoke to a fellow CB7 owner here in town, and he suggested the valve cover gasket/dizzy seal. Anyone else think this is plausible?? Checked the CEL codes again tonight, 5 and 7 again. Auto one doesn't list a MAP, even tho theres a sensor with a frickin sticker with "MAP" written right on it, and the TPS is brand new.Comment
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Update: Pulled the dizzy, no oil in it. Checked the EGR, clean-ish, so i cleaned it a bit more. Replaced cap and rotor, just to be safe(rotor was fucked, black and pitted, cap was on its way out. When i pulled the dizz, oil poured out of the cam "hole", so i cleaned it out really well with shop towels. Car ran much better today, no stalls, but I'm tracking this down to maybe the coil?? Would explain the tach going crazy, and the stuttering. I'm thinking about getting the Accel SuperCoil, for some added juice, and most likely a new O-Ring for the dizz, just to make sure no oil gets up inside it.Comment
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ya, coil/rotor would make sense on this issue. Especially if you have no misses at all anymore now.Originally posted by monochrome83 View PostComment
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and checking spark plug wires for oil is also a good idea. I had an 04 ranger 2.3 dohc and when the valve cover gasket went it was floating 2 wires, and I had to stop every 20 miles to drain the plug well so It would run again.Here's what I'm working with tell me what you think.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193759Comment
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Got almost same issue.
It was stalling every time when heats up.
Replaced dizzy and problem was gone.Comment
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sometimes the modules inside the dizzy go bad in these cars... same thing happened to me. i replaced the main relay, the module inside the dizzy, cap rotor and had my timing either advanced or retarted by five numbers and she was fine
good luck bro!
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replaced cap/rotor, problem went away for about a week. cars much easier to start when it dies, but still dies. Purchased an Accel Supercoil to replace the cheap replacement one, and have the original igniter, which looks like it still might work. As always, the car has issues once its warmed up, so luckily, my job is within distance, or i die in the parking lot. The saga continues. Thanks for the suggestions guys, i'm looking into everything.Comment
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Coils in, new o-rings are on, tried to use original hitatchi igniter, but plugs are too big in ebay dizzy.... Car hasnt stalled since made the changes, but has strange pop at idle, like its missing. Adjusted the IACV, so idle is more steady now. So for now, the problem seems to have gone away, so thanks for the suggestions guys, she's doing well.Comment
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so it was the coil?Comment
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check your fitv too make sure the plunger is seated properly. there known too cause up and down idling problems. it is a heat operated part like a thermostat but it controls your fast idle when cold. if its old and out of wack its staying open when running, could be the sorce of your problems...mine blew an egr code when it went bad #12....it gave me some dumb running issues as well, it wasent as bad as some othors iveseen though.
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Unfortunately, it has not been fixed. Started about a week later. I've adjusted the IACV, installed the new coil, and it ran great...for like a week. Many Google searches have led me to believe its the igniter. The symptoms are pointing to it, and the car seems to run fine for a week, every time I remove/reinstall the dizzy. I'm going to try this, and see. If not, I'm out of options, this thing is becoming impossible to start once it dies.Comment
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