going turbo

[rileyw695]

hello im new here but im turboing my f22a6 engine and i have all wheel abs does it hurt to remove the hole abs system or would it be better to keep all of that and just try to go around everything?????

[antonio7566]

hello im new here but im turboing my f22a6 engine and i have all wheel abs does it hurt to remove the hole abs system or would it be better to keep all of that and just try to go around everything?????

You have convert it from a non abs car, removing will free up space, lose some weight and clean up your engine bay a bit. The chocie is yours.

[cb7_92accord]

An advice, if you're new at the turbo scene I suggest you do more research. As for the ABS delete is your personal preference man. I can't wait to see that a6 boosted

[rileyw695]

An advice, if you're new at the turbo scene I suggest you do more research. As for the ABS delete is your personal preference man. I can't wait to see that a6 boosted

alright man thanks and pics will be coming soon also anyone know a good cam to throw in her???

[MortsAccord]

Dont mess with the most important aspect of your car, unless its broken.

[deevergote]

Agreed. If the brakes work properly, leave them alone.

This entire thread is about brakes. The fact that you're boosting has practically nothing to do with the question you asked. Please keep your thread titles on topic, or you'll find your threads being deleted before you get any answers.
And boosting your engine is going to take far more than simply bolting on a turbo kit... if you want it to last longer than a week, that is.

[cb7_92accord]

I agree what Deev said. Our engines are not built to hold boost (everybody knows that) and upgrading this and that is not the way. You're gonna need a good amount of money tp build it the right way if you want it to last long. Are you new to the turbo scene?

[MortsAccord]

There's nothing wrong with turbo'd stock honda engines, its just that people try to take it too far. Not only that but they only look at whp, not how much air the build consumes vs actual power it made.

If more people looked at this, then they would see the extra stress the engine has on it vs the actual power its making.

A properly setup stock boosted f engine should make about 190wtq without ever needing forged internals. Sds-efi has tons of articles on turbo setups and pushing things too far.

[deevergote]

And they all break ringlands sooner or later.
I love when people ignore that fact.

[92smokeaccord]

opens thread.drops this and leaves.

[h22sparkle]

And they all break ringlands sooner or later.
I love when people ignore that fact.

That's what I try to explain to them but they never listen. Allmotor is fine but when you try to get into turbo you better have your shit straight or else.

[MortsAccord]

The ringlands will support 190 tq if its made correctly. Nearly everyone that ends up with bottomed out cyln pressures was running a log mani with over 220tq on pump gas.

More often than not they are using too much timing and don't evacuate their exhaust correctly which decreases power.

Forged is where its at but you don't need it for a first time build if you do things on the conservative side while you gain knowledge.

[deevergote]

That's what I try to explain to them but they never listen. Allmotor is fine but when you try to get into turbo you better have your shit straight or else.

With all-motor, the rods are the issue. A decent stopgap fix for a budget all-motor build is ARP rod bolts and stock rods... but the stock internals still aren't great to rev much higher than they were designed to go. Fortunately, there's no power to be had up high until you do headwork and raise the compression (especially if we're talking about an F22A with a low stock compression ratio), so using stock internals is rarely a factor even with a budget all-motor build (this is assuming a "build" is more than just bolt-on mods!)

The ringlands will support 190 tq if its made correctly. Nearly everyone that ends up with bottomed out cyln pressures was running a log mani with over 220tq on pump gas.

More often than not they are using too much timing and don't evacuate their exhaust correctly which decreases power.

Forged is where its at but you don't need it for a first time build if you do things on the conservative side while you gain knowledge.

At 20 years old, even that much will seriously limit the life of the internals. It's true that a very modest level of boost with a properly sized turbo, good tune, careful installation, and careful maintenance MIGHT last a while... but it's almost a guarantee that the ringlands will fail sooner or later.
Just about every boosted staff member, past and present, has had a properly set up (carefully tuned) stock-internal turbo engine blow ringlands.
Doing it "right" may give you more time, but it WILL happen, one way or another. The older these engines get, the more quickly it will happen as well.

Our cast pistons are fantastic for their intended purpose, but turbo produces more pressure and more heat. The cast aluminum expands with the heat, and cracks with the pressure.

[ksboi]

Build the block first. 190tq will ever be enough you can get package deals on forged pistons and rods.

[MortsAccord]

Build the block first. 190tq will ever be enough you can get package deals on forged pistons and rods.

You mean 190 tq will not be enough? Your crazy, and obviously have not driven a well planed turbocharged car. Not to mention more power than that requires a lot more investment in the driveline to effectively lay the power down instead of burning your tires.

Ugh, you guys... Who cares about forged pistons when you can setup a low boost high efficiency daily on stock components, without ever blowing them up. All you have to be is conservative with your power, properly match all the components of the system and do your best to evacuate the exhaust system effectively. You'll be able to make around 190tq to the ground without blowing things up.

Additionally I would run a rich power setup to help keep the engine cooler 12.3:1, rather than running a more fuel efficient and running towards lean power, 13.1:1. OR I'd run E85, Which is way better for this type of situation, however only if its widely available in your area, since its not here closest station is 50 miles away, one way.

Either way you go about it, you should have 2 engines. Just in case something happens. Also you should have 2 cars.

Additionally everyone should read stuff here:
http://www.sdsefi.com/meltdown.htm