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Timing belt and water pump change - lack of power.

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    Timing belt and water pump change - lack of power.

    Ok, I recently started loosing fluid out of my water pump like crazy, so I had the water pump and timing belt changed. After getting my car back there is a loud whine and a noticeable loss of power. Also the engine noise is much louder than before. I'm guessing that an exhaust gasket broke and the o2 sensor isn't reporting the correct air/fuel mixture so its flooding the engine with gas which is causing the loss of power. Am I on the right track?

    edit: Also forgot to report that its a Dayco timing belt / waterpump, and that the engine idles fine so I'm not thinking that the belt is off by a tooth or that anything is wrong with the timing, although I might still hook up a timing light to check.
    Last edited by CBZED101; 10-25-2012, 05:53 PM.

    #2
    I would take it back to whoever did the repairs. If it wasn't like that before and it is now then................

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      #3
      Originally posted by CBZED101 View Post
      Ok, I recently started loosing fluid out of my water pump like crazy, so I had the water pump and timing belt changed. After getting my car back there is a loud whine and a noticeable loss of power. Also the engine noise is much louder than before. I'm guessing that an exhaust gasket broke and the o2 sensor isn't reporting the correct air/fuel mixture so its flooding the engine with gas which is causing the loss of power. Am I on the right track?

      edit: Also forgot to report that its a Dayco timing belt / waterpump, and that the engine idles fine so I'm not thinking that the belt is off by a tooth or that anything is wrong with the timing, although I might still hook up a timing light to check.
      The engine can idle just fine even if the timing is off.
      Check the timing FIRST.


      Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

      My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

      A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

      If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

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        #4
        Ignition timing is easier to check, so do that first... but chances are good that the belt is off by a tooth.






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          #5
          If the belt is off by a tooth or 2 the engine will make tons of noise @ WOT and won't go anywhere. Part throttle will be almost normal performance. Def. thinking camshaft timing is off.

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            #6
            The whining means that the TB is too tight. Also, loss of power means that it's off a few teeth or more and if there are any weird vibrations the balancer shafts might be off as well.
            1992 Accord LX - SOLD

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              #7
              Originally posted by Granite CB7 View Post
              If the belt is off by a tooth or 2 the engine will make tons of noise @ WOT and won't go anywhere. Part throttle will be almost normal performance. Def. thinking camshaft timing is off.

              Thanks all for the quick responses.

              Also, this is basically exactly whats happening. How easy is it to check the camshaft timing? If the engine is set at TDC and upper timing cover removed, will the "up" mark be enough to diagnose the timing issue?

              Also, I wasn't too concerned about the whining timing belt because I've heard that some mechanics put it on tight when the belt is new because the belt will unavoidably stretch a bit after 1,000 miles or so, and this way the tension doesn't have to be re-adjusted afterwards, and the whine will go away. Is this correct?

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                #8
                Originally posted by CBZED101 View Post
                Thanks all for the quick responses.

                Also, this is basically exactly whats happening. How easy is it to check the camshaft timing? If the engine is set at TDC and upper timing cover removed, will the "up" mark be enough to diagnose the timing issue?

                Also, I wasn't too concerned about the whining timing belt because I've heard that some mechanics put it on tight when the belt is new because the belt will unavoidably stretch a bit after 1,000 miles or so, and this way the tension doesn't have to be re-adjusted afterwards, and the whine will go away. Is this correct?
                With the physical timing in question, remove the timing window plug and set TDC that way, then see if the cam marks are flat with the head or not.
                Originally posted by Mishakol129
                Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

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                  #9
                  By the way the park needs to be facing UP perpendicular to the head, using the head as the flat surface not the ground. The engine sits kinda at an angle.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Tippey764 View Post
                    By the way the park needs to be facing UP perpendicular to the head, using the head as the flat surface not the ground. The engine sits kinda at an angle.
                    Thanks, that was actually a question I had on my mind, you just answered it before I could post.

                    I'm really hoping that when I take my car back to the guy who did the work, he wont give me too much trouble fixing it. He did the job considerably cheaper than anyone else would, $350, and had it back to me in about 5 hours. I haven't been able to drive it much since the water pump croaked, and I had just installed some HID's, and I haven't even been able to test them out much.
                    Last edited by CBZED101; 10-26-2012, 12:40 AM.

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                      #11
                      sometimes the cheapest guy in town isn't the guy you want to go to...
                      I <3 G60.

                      0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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