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Rear Mount Removal/Replace

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    Rear Mount Removal/Replace

    Apologies in advance if this is redundant but I seached the forum and though there is info on this all the picture links are broken/old.

    I am trying to see if it would be better for me to take on the rear mount replacement myself but I need a good intake manifold removal DIY. I found one in this forum but again the picture links are broken/old.

    I have the service manual but no step by step removal of manifold, unless someone has a section number I missed.

    Doing this myself will save me 400 in labor from a mechanic.

    Aleks

    #2
    Removing the Intake Manifold is pretty easy. Pull it off as a whole, don't take the plenum off, etc. It's all about hooking and unhooking. Hoses and plugs. I think the only issue you would run into is that 1 or 2 plugs on the back of the plenum that hook up to the throttle body area can connect to similar connectors.

    Not sure if this works on the Accord but I know when I rebuilt the motor in the civic (95), when I had the connectors wrong.. when I turned the key to ACC (didn't start it), the CEL never went away like it does after a few seconds. Even before it's been started.

    Gonna most likely need a new gasket too. I'm sure you'll have to peel the gasket off and it won't come off as a whole if it's the first time it's ever been taken off. Had to scrape mine off and then do a tiny bit of sanding.
    Last edited by Gotz Cb7; 01-23-2013, 11:16 AM.
    98' Mustang 3V Swap
    11' VW CC R36

    Comment


      #4
      I just did mine. Tryed to do a video, but it took me too long.

      Undo every motor mount except for the trans. Remove intake tube, vacuu, box, charcoal canister.
      Unbolt the fuel filter from the wall and let it hang.
      Remove the coolant hose that goes under the TB.
      Remove the bracket and valve for your heater. The hoses will leak coolant.
      Remove the bolts for the old motor mount. The one all the way under the intake will require you to remove the oil filter.
      Remove the motor mount towards the passenger side. The fuel filter will require some finagling. You'll likely need to jack up the motor. Make sure you spread the weight out. I used 2x6's.
      Reinstall the same way.
      MRT
      37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
      30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
      27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

      Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

      Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
      Originally posted by Tippey764
      I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
      Originally posted by deevergote
      sneaky motherfucker

      Comment


        #5
        Originally posted by GeoffM View Post
        I just did mine. Tryed to do a video, but it took me too long.

        Undo every motor mount except for the trans. Remove intake tube, vacuu, box, charcoal canister.
        Unbolt the fuel filter from the wall and let it hang.
        Remove the coolant hose that goes under the TB.
        Remove the bracket and valve for your heater. The hoses will leak coolant.
        Remove the bolts for the old motor mount. The one all the way under the intake will require you to remove the oil filter.
        Remove the motor mount towards the passenger side. The fuel filter will require some finagling. You'll likely need to jack up the motor. Make sure you spread the weight out. I used 2x6's.
        Reinstall the same way.
        You can also take the mount out through the bottom. But this requires lifting the car. I've found it to be a lot easier to do it this way, but I've always had access to a lift. Plus, this way doesn't require the removal of anything other than the intake tube to create easier access to the mount bolts. Make sure to have those extendable handheld mirrors nearby, they help out a lot. Good luck to the OP.

        Comment


          #6
          Originally posted by oni_cb7 View Post
          You can also take the mount out through the bottom. But this requires lifting the car. I've found it to be a lot easier to do it this way, but I've always had access to a lift. Plus, this way doesn't require the removal of anything other than the intake tube to create easier access to the mount bolts. Make sure to have those extendable handheld mirrors nearby, they help out a lot. Good luck to the OP.
          I wasn't able to do this. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get the rear crossmember to move enough.
          My old mount got stuck under the intake. I managed to fit the new one in in the method I described.
          I used a sawzall to cut the old one into bits and remove it that way.
          MRT
          37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
          30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
          27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

          Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

          Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
          Originally posted by Tippey764
          I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
          Originally posted by deevergote
          sneaky motherfucker

          Comment


            #7
            Originally posted by GeoffM View Post
            I wasn't able to do this. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get the rear crossmember to move enough.
            My old mount got stuck under the intake. I managed to fit the new one in in the method I described.
            I used a sawzall to cut the old one into bits and remove it that way.
            I know it is possible, I've done it that way every time it has been changed. Plus it keeps you from having to reach all the way to the bottom of the engine bay. I do remember having to turn it a bunch while pulling it down and out of the engine bay. But I had it on a lift, that might have made it easier for me.

            Comment


              #8
              Originally posted by oni_cb7 View Post
              I know it is possible, I've done it that way every time it has been changed. Plus it keeps you from having to reach all the way to the bottom of the engine bay. I do remember having to turn it a bunch while pulling it down and out of the engine bay. But I had it on a lift, that might have made it easier for me.
              Did you disconnect the rack from the column? I don't know what was stuck, but something was completely preventing me from lowering it.
              I disconnected the drivers side axle, the ends of the sway bar, and obviously the 4 bolts holding the crossmember. I could only get about 3 inches of play, max, when I was prying it down.
              MRT
              37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
              30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
              27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

              Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

              Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
              Originally posted by Tippey764
              I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
              Originally posted by deevergote
              sneaky motherfucker

              Comment


                #9
                I will go from the bottom I have access to a lift now and it seems much easier.

                Comment


                  #10
                  Originally posted by GeoffM View Post
                  Did you disconnect the rack from the column? I don't know what was stuck, but something was completely preventing me from lowering it.
                  I disconnected the drivers side axle, the ends of the sway bar, and obviously the 4 bolts holding the crossmember. I could only get about 3 inches of play, max, when I was prying it down.
                  I didn't have to remove the axle, or sway bar end links. It's fairly easy, you just have to turn the mount as you pull it out. I think i pulled the exhaust out of the way, but I can't be too sure, it has been awhile.

                  The last time I replaced it, I also replaced a cracked crossmember (the one that the mount attaches too). This was the easiest way of all and just required the removal of the crossmember; which is really easy with a lift. An hour or two at most, but requires the removal of the rack. Just try your best to get it out of the bottom by turning it and finagling it out of place. It is possible.

                  Comment

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