Do I have the correct ECU?

[PortzMonkey]

I have a 93 accord ex that was originally an automatic. I bought the car as it's sitting now. It has an F23 engine I've been told was from an 02, but I don't know which version. (I can get more specifics, but I don't know where to look. :/ ) and I have an h22 manual transmission.
I've been hitting limp mode with CEL readings 12 and 13 (EGR valve and BARO).
I was told that the BARO sensor is in the ECU and it would just need to be replaced and the ECU itself is most likely the reason why I'm getting limp mode.
I want to purchase a replacement but I want to make sure I'm purchasing the right one.

The ECU that's currently in it is from a 95 and reads 37820 P0A A51. When I look it up it says that it's meant for an automatic. As I'm not well versed in the Accord my main questions are should I just purchase the same model ECU, and if not how much wiring will I need to change, if any and which one would be the best one for my particular car?

Thank you in advance for your time and help.

[af_1132]

I would first check the engine block, underneath where the upper radiator hose meets the head, for the engine code engraved in the block. If you are correct, it should say F23A and another number, probably 1. Let us know what it says.

If it is an F23A, the factory ECU is the PAA-A## for the 49 states, and PAA-L## for California specifically. I will say that I have heard that the P0A does run the F23, just not perfectly well.

Also, your P0A, if it is the stock ECU from a 95, is OBD1. The F23A uses an OBD2 harness and an OBD2 ECU stock, so there was most likely some wiring redone to make that ECU work.

First things first, though. Figure out that engine code on the block and we can go from there.

[af_1132]

I just saw your other thread from earlier this evening. I'm just curious why you started a new thread. Were you not getting your questions in the first thread answered? I'm confused.

[PortzMonkey]

The engine is certainly an A1.

I'm sorry, I'm new to posting on forums and I thought since my originally query had been answered it was probably best to start a new query about the ECU. It would seem I was mistaken. :/

For all intents and purposes I meant well, but I'm hoping with time I'll figure this whole thing out and even more one day becoming a helping member.

I do appreciate your fast response.

Back on the subject though, would I be alright purchasing another ECU with the same serial that's currently in it or would it be more advantageous to get the correct one and just be done with it, and if so which one would absolutely be the best one to purchase?

[Jarrett]

Okay, instead of us making suggestions as to what to do to fix the car right now, we need to determine exactly what was done to get the vehicle running. We'll ignore your codes right now, though they are telling of a swap done incorrectly.

What wiring harness was used when this engine was installed?

It is always easiest to use the wiring harness that came with the car as this will allow the engine to plug back in to the chassis harnesses on the inner fenders. To do so, you will need to add some missing components to the factory harness.

VTEC

You'll need two VTEC wires; one for the solenoid and one for the pressure sensor. You can get them for cheap online or make your own. You don't need one for knock sensor or intake air bypass (IABs) as the F23A doesn't use them and the P0A won't look for them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtec-Convers...-/161245556993

Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT)

If the F23A1 intake manifold was retained (you want this manifold), then you'll need to clip the IAT sensor off of your factory engine harness and SOLDER on a new one from the F23A harness. You'll need to carefully weave the wiring together to make the connection before soldering because the nature of this being a temperature-reading wire will make it sensitive.

Fuel Injectors

You can use the fuel injectors of the F23A1 for perfect fitment inside the fuel rail and intake manifold, but you'll need to do some custom work to make it fit. There are other methods of getting injectors to work in this swap as well, so I'll hold off on the explanation for now as you seem to have gotten it hooked up somehow. An exact explanation of methods and components used would be nice, though.

Oxygen sensor

Since you have an EX, you already have an oxygen sensor that's downstream near the oil pan. Your factory one should fit. If you had a DX/LX with the sensor in the exhaust manifold, you would have needed to extend the wires taking the same precautions you would have with soldering the IAT sensor.


Other parts

Distributor

Use the distributor that came with your car. As long as you're going from a SOHC F22A to a SOHC F23A then your distributor will bolt up. As long as you're using your factory harness then it will plug in directly. Sounds like a win-win.

IACV adapter

To run the F23A manifold that was designed for a 3-wire IACV, you'll need an adapter such as the one available from Rosko Racing. This will allow you to run the 2-wire IACV from your Accord.

https://www.roskoracing.com/cgi-bin/...on&key=200-011


Give us more information about what you have and we'll go from there.

[deevergote]

PortzMonkey, I answered your question in your previous thread.

[8ball]

I Just want to mention that looking at the ecus pin outs may help you.

[SimplyJDM90CB7]

i did the F23A vtec swap and i just used the F22a4 intake manifold with a custom made adapter plate i made out of 1"x16"x4" plate of aluminum. the local metal supply shop gave me a funny look though. lol I just gasket matched the two port holes and used a dremel with a carbide bit to mesh the two sides together. oh and i had to get extended studs and bolted it up... seems to work fine for me.