Hi I was thinking about putting a cold air intake with filter. What are the pros and cons when switching them out? Also which one would u recommend I have a 92 accord ex at
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Is a cold air intake better than the stock intake?
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The benefits are actually minimal. The stock intake system flows well enough for a lightly modified engine. Short ram is fine as well. Cold air introduces greater risk of hydrolock, and requires cutting the sheet metal of your engine bay. IMO, not worth it for the fairly imperceptible gains. I did it, and regretted it. stock piping is probably fine. If you want a little more throttle response and a throaty sound, get a short ram (cheap crap is fine... a pipe is a pipe) with a quality filter. K&N, aem, or apexi would be my choices. Don't trust a cheap filter. You need quality for increased flow and maximum filtration. Cheap crap sacrifices filtration for flow. No bueno.
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Yup you have to still shave off some of the metal just for the intake tubing to fit through the frame. Its a small price to pay you can easily perform this with a simple dremel takes only like ten minutes roughly. You can get some intake tubing from home depot and make your own since the tubing doesn't need sensors on it like the newer cars.
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The rusty butthole that resulted from trimming the metal to fit a CAI wasn't worth the 1-2hp I may have gained, I don't think.
If I had to do it again, I'd have installed a short ram with a good filter. If anything, just for the ease of getting it out of the way (a CAI is a pain in the ass to remove when you have to get it out of the engine bay to reach something else...)
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If you are after a performance gain I'd just stick with a good stock replacement filter. If you are wanting to clean up the bay then I could see where an aftermarket intake would be beneficial.
The risk with aftermarket intakes is the aftermarket filters. Some aftermarket filters are lacking in filtration compared to factory or factory replacement air filters. And, if you go true CIA with the filter in the fender well then the risks are even greater. There have been people simply splash through a puddle and hydrolock an engine due to CIA's.
I haven't seen them personally but on here it's been discussed several times where studies have reviled that even a drop in K&N filter doesn't have the greatest filtration qualities.
After 25 years these cars have lost so much power from when they rolled off the assembly line that I don't see much use in performance upgrades. Unless of course it's an exhaust system for instance because the owner wants to make a little noise. Or something that's cosmetic. But that's just me.
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That's true about power loss over the years. Refreshing the engine to like-new condition would give more in the way of "gains" than most basic modifications.
I've heard that about K&N's filtration abilities as well. Apparently, Apexi's filter is both the most free-flowing AND the best at filtration... though I can't remember the last time I saw one.
In most cases, you would need to fully submerge a filter to hydrolock. A splash of water is not likely to be enough to bypass the filter, travel up the intake, and do harm to the engine's internals. Submerging the filter quickly, even for half a second, would be enough to suck up a damaging amount of water, though. One of our old members managed to do it to his GSR... though he lucked out when he was able to convince the insurance company that an ITR engine was an equivalent stock replacement
Still, the risk of hydrolock, the need to cut sheet metal, and the irritation of having to move a CAI, and the relative lack of horsepower gains... those are more than enough reasons for me to never want to install one again!
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Just had this discussion over on the Ridgeline forum. They are so anti-mods it's crazy. I had a guy post up a link to a 3rd party test on a number of filters, AC Delco, K&N, Fram..etc..etc.
The graphs make the K&N look terible, but if one was to actually read the data. The K&N filtration is only 3.13% under the top AC Delco filter.
Where the test really gets interesting is the amount of dirt the filters allow to pass. This is where everyone jumped all over the K&N and other oiled filters. The K&N allowed 7.0gms over the test period vs the AC Delco that only allowed 0.4 gms. What they forget to mention is that the size of the test particulate is between 2.5microns and 80microns....majority of the particulate passed the filter was under 5microns. For F#@K sake..... really! I''l take a 28% increase in flow knowing that it might allow some Bactria sized dust to get passed it.
have to consider that our fuel filters are 10-30 microns and our oil filters are 10-20 microns. These guys who say oiled filters don't filter out dirt as efficiently as OEM paper panels are full of it. They are getting all worked up about air filters that won't filter out 2.5 microns but don't care about the oil or fuel filters that allow 5 times the dirt to flow through them. :shakeshead:
I have been using K&N oiled cone filters for over 20 years now with no issues. On both MAF and speed density engine management systems. If you clean and oil your filter regularly and properly. You shouldn't have any issues.
As far as CAI vs Hot Air or Ram Air, I always opt for Ram air style. Simply for the sound and throttle response.Last edited by GhostAccord; 09-11-2016, 01:22 PM.
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It does seem as though the probability of hydrolock due to a CAI is minimal. I've known a couple people to have it happen and with it being so unlikely I feel a couple is too many. It still tends to happen more often than it should in my opinion. Either that or peoples definition of "puddle" differs greatly from mine.
I have noticed the most performance gains by preforming maintenance. Not only performance gains but MPG and throttle response.
Nice to know about the actual K&N air filter data. I never looked at it.
On an MAF'd car, such as my Talon, I've been informed that the oils from any oil type filter will eventually mess with the MAF. That could be a DSM thing I don't really know. Not that this matters on a CB. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
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I've heard that about oiled filters as well. I think it's an issue for my CTS-V, even (though the stock intake system on that is supposedly so good that any upgrade is pointless.)
I'm curious about the filtration properties of dry-flow filters, such as the one sold by AEM. My friend has had good luck with his over the years on his F22A1. He doesn't drive it all that much, though.
In regards to the short ram style being "hot air" intakes... as long as the car is moving, the underhood temperatures are actually fairly low. Warmer than ambient, but not so much so that it would be detrimental. The heat is sucked out under the car as it moves. Unless you have the "broken hood mod" (hood spacers) which will result in the hot air being drawn up around the intake manifold.
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Originally posted by H311RA151N View PostOn an MAF'd car, such as my Talon, I've been informed that the oils from any oil type filter will eventually mess with the MAF. That could be a DSM thing I don't really know. Not that this matters on a CB. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
A spark plug replacement will probably net more hp and tq. The F is so old now. Has anyone lately done a full stock engine rebuild and dyno'd it? I'd be curious to see quantitatively how much power has been lost.
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Originally posted by sonikaccord View PostI've heard that for my e46 as well. It's probably a universal thing.
A spark plug replacement will probably net more hp and tq. The F is so old now. Has anyone lately done a full stock engine rebuild and dyno'd it? I'd be curious to see quantitatively how much power has been lost.
I bet many of the stock F22A1 engines on this forum are making less than 100whp.
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Originally posted by H311RA151N View PostOn an MAF'd car, such as my Talon, I've been informed that the oils from any oil type filter will eventually mess with the MAF. That could be a DSM thing I don't really know. Not that this matters on a CB. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
As far as mass air flow (MAF) engine management systems go. If you clean the filter frequently and use the proper amount of oil you shouldn't have any issues. My current setup has the MAF only 3" from the filter and no oil issues. That being said, I make sure to clean my MAF sensor at the same time I clean my filter.
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Yeah, MAP's rarely get dirty from my experience. I can't recall having a MAP issue on anything. MAF's on the other hand, I've had to clean in every MAF vehicle I've owned. Even with clean filters and a tightly sealed intake boxes.
Not to get too far off topic here but from what I've gathered MAF systems are generally more precise but at the cost of being more temperamental in comparison to speed density (MAP systems).
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