Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

CB7 With an F23A4 weird throttle issue at low RPM/Throttle engagement

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    CB7 With an F23A4 weird throttle issue at low RPM/Throttle engagement

    Hello, I recently did an F23A4 swap into my 91 accord coupe after sadly blowing my previous motor, It seems to run okay minus the IACV code its throwing I've replaced a fairly small list of parts, IAT sensor, Thermostat, TPS, fuel filter, will also be doing fuel pressure regulator and damper tomorrow. I did some reading about differences between the A1 and A4 before doing this swap and couldn't find an F23A4 specific guide so I followed one for an F23A1 did all the wiring changes removed resistor box moved MAP over 94 EX Dizzy and ECU from a F22b1 and I just cant get the car to behave at RPMS between roughly 1100 and 1800. I've been looking for an answer or help in anyway possible, it also bounces RPM at those previously listed while try ng to drive and causes the car to buck and thrash me back and forth. I've been reading all kinds of forums and posts about weird idle issues and nothing seems to work so I'm hoping someone who has more experience and can at the very least point me in the correct direction. the car seems to idle fine and behave correctly above 2k RPMS so I'm not sure what's going on at all. any help would be greatly appreciated. Also I apologize if anything isnt correctly adjusted for forums this is my first ever post to a forum at all. Small side note it was running rich I think? the spark plugs were covered in what looked like soot before I replaced them after already replacing a dead one.


    Attached video of how its behaving.
    https://youtube.com/shorts/z9cPDeWNo...6FX858PfAe4ELy
    *Edit* Image of the spark plugs.
    https://imgur.com/i1vjrXF
    Last edited by YukinoTV; 02-14-2024, 01:31 AM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Ya.that is weird. And a weird sound. Have you tried unplugging or replacing the IACV?

    Comment

      #3
      Ive not tried replacing it, but I have tried unplugging it and unfortunately that didnt do the trick sadly.

      Comment

        #4
        So you need to check th wiring for the IACV and fix the check engine light. But the sound.... sounds and looks distributor related or plugs. You check these things?

        Comment

          #5
          Ill take a look at the wiring again for the IACV, but yeah the plugs themselves are brand new and the distributor just had the igniter cap and rotor replaced. Only thing not relpaced is the wires

          Comment

            #6
            I'll add this information but I don't think it's the problem. There is idle air adjust screw near the throttle body under rubber plug. It's a factory set idle. For a base idle. It's usually never touched. Since I saw the CEL light pop on and off. Obviously you checked for codes? Or is it throwing anymore codes? If I were to guess this is some kind of ECU issue. Can you eventually try another ECU? Are you sure that it is compatible? What about the VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor? Maybe that could cause an issue.

            Comment

              #7
              Ya. If you have a IACV error code let's fix that first. You need to check the wiring on the plug. Does it have proper resistance, voltage etc. Check your haynes manual for how to check this.
              if the wiring is good then replace the IACV. While the
              IACV is usually for idle and cold starts may it's allowing air past and messing up fuel trims for low rpms. I would also take the IACV off and physically look at it.



              Comment

                #8
                I would start with the codes. A flashing CEL while the engine is running is never a good sign. Also did you swap around the two wires, that are required when going to an F22B1/2 ECU? I don't remember what they are for but, you need to swap them on the ECU plug side.
                MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

                Comment

                  #9
                  Hey sorry finally got some time to work on her and respond, The CEL was flashing because my dumbass didnt pull the jumper out for the ECU. The problem went away for a day after replacing plug wires fuel damper and the FPR but it has since come back and I only have the IACV code. the two pins on the ECU are swapped I believe they were A6 and A11. I took the IACV off and it was Dirrrtyyy I tried my best to clean it but I'm guessing I have to replace it for it to have any real effect. I tested the resistance on the connections themselves I'm not sure what the Haynes manual calls for (I dont own one and cant find any at my oreillys or autozone at the moment) but the Ylw/blk wire was my battery voltage it was correct sometimes alittle high at 13V but seemed okay otherwise, I did resistance on the signal wire and I also did voltage if I remember correctly it was 11V? and like 170-300 Ohms and the black wire was my earth wire so that was fine. I took a look at timing and Its as close as I can get it and now it bounces at idle? so im just gonna guess Its either my wiring or the IACV itself. My idle screw doesnt seem to want to move so I'm not thinking thats the problem. its still running rich I think but It also seems to be leaking oil which is another problem Im gonna be taking a look at later today. If anyone has any input or other recommendations Ill take anything at this point and if anyone knows common leaks for this motor to take a look at that would be immensely appreciated.

                  Comment

                  Previous template Next
                  Working...
                  X