Flywheel marking

[jas_r34]

damn. good idea but wont work cuz i still have my engine in the car....wut a pain in the @$$

[lucid]

Sometimes there's just enough room...move the splash shield and make sure you can't reach. I don't think it's a really good idea to loosen the engine mount since the other side is already detached, but you might be okay if you still have front and rear mounts- you could tilt the pulley side down enough to get a socket on it. I have also successfully made a tool to hold the flywheel across two neighboring pressure plate bolt holes...just take a flat but strong metal bar and drill 2 holes in it the same distance apart as the pressure plate bolt holes on the flywheel, then bolt the bar to the flywheel (so it doesn't cover the flywheel bolts) and hold it like a lever (put the holes closer to one end). This works really well, I just always lose the bar later.

[jas_r34]

do ypu have a pic of this tool that you made? i tried to put a socket on the pulley but its too hard:@...its pissin me off, lol....im gona try to make that tool you were talking about but am a little confused lol

[cp[mike]]

loosen the two studs on the driver side mount until they are all teh way out without actually disconnecting. also the splash guard has to be removed (duh). that lets the driver side of the motor sit low enough to get that holder tool in...

[lucid]

Good idea Mike, I should have thought of that one. The bar thing is real simple, it just puts a handle on the flywheel so you can hold it still and get some leverage. Use a flat bar (not a tube) at least twice as long as the flywheel is wide. Don't use one so big it gets in the way with your motor being in the car still. There are six bolt holes in the flywheel that were used to hold the pressure plate on. Measure the distance center-to-center between 2 of those holes that are side by side instead of across from each other (so the bar gets better leverage and most importantly doesn't obscure the flywheel bolts you're trying to remove). Drill 2 holes in the bar that distance apart, big enough to put the bolts back in. With the bar screwed onto the wheel, you should have an easy time. Keep the bar around- it's a specialty tool now, and all you have to do is drill another hole to adapt to a different car . Use a sturdy bar to start out with, thin flat metal won't work worth a sheet.

[jas_r34]

lol, i did remove the spalsh guard but its still not enough to fit the socket on. i looked at my neighbors car and his pully is so low, its in the open. theres nothing coverin it....lucky @$$

[cp[mike]]

im confused about what step youre on... are you removing the crank pulley bolt, or are you taking the bolts out of the flywheel?

anyway.

if the tranny is off and the clutch disc and pressure plate are removed and youre at the bare flywheel, you can stick a phillips head screwdriver in one of the 6 holes along the outside edge. its exactly the right size to fit. theres some areas behind the flywheel that have thick webbing that you can let the screwdriver rest on. if you used a good screwdriver (not an autozone or dollar store one) you can use that to hold the flywheel from turning while you take the bolts out of the center.

[jas_r34]

thnx a lot man, i will try that rite now

[jas_r34]

got my flywheel off and sent it out for machining...that screwdriver trick work wicked...thnx mike

[cp[mike]]

got my flywheel off and sent it out for machining...that screwdriver trick work wicked...thnx mike

good luck with the rest of the job!