battery relocate

[cleanz_28]

how do I go about this project...I wanna do this so I can Get A CAI.?how to I Run the Wires ?

[lokuputha]

here enjoy the read :

you can wire through the holes that are already there behind the passenger footwell.

http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/...atbattery.html

http://www.automedia.com/Relocating/...es20010301br/1

http://www.lingenfelter.com/pdf/batt...nsversion2.pdf

[pretty_ricky302]

first of all u dont need to move to battery to have a cai

[nucleara]

I agree with ricky but it does look better, when I did my f22b engine swap I used a cold air intake from a 92 - 96 prelude which goes where our batteries are located, so I moved mine to the trunk, ran the line under my carpet, through the plug on the passenger side floor board ( above the ecu). I used the kit from summit, it was cheap and of good quality, and I also switched to an optima battery. but depending on the cold air intake you get like if you got for an accord you don't need to move your battery to the trunk.

[pretty_ricky302]

what kind of connectors did they give u for the battery wires, b/c there big and wide, do u have to trim them up

[nucleara]

i realy didn't trim them because the kit was made to work the gauge wire they provided, and for now I have them hooked together with a bolt and wraped in eletrical tape, because I haven't had the time to make a distribution block but I'll probally make one this weekend.

[Otto]

This is something I've been thinking about...I'm just cheap and worried I won't pay enough attention to detail. I'm definetly gonna have to plan and think about this. Plus I'd have to get a sealed battery.

But definetly go straight for the zero gauge wire, and don't keep more slack than nessicary. Also check and think about where the wire is running. Don't want anything rubbing on it.

I'll probably run the wire stright to the starter terminal, then attach the accesory/engine/etc power wire to the starter terminal. Same for the grounds...bring it right from the battery to the starter bracket, then send a ground from there to the frame.

[Otto]

Farkin' A! I just priced zero gauge at crutchfield. $8 a foot! $319.60 for 40 feet!!!!!!!!!!!!!11!! I'll have to take a look at Home Deopt :P. I had a feeling the cost would be...significant.

I'd have to get just the power wire, and use 2 gauge, and if I only need 15 feet...it would still be $60 plus a sealed battery. Other prices online aren't much different. Blah!

[lokuputha]

would u need 40ft?....when I bought a power wire back to my trunk it was only like 20ft

[Otto]

Well I thinking I'd do both power and ground

Where'd you get your wire?

[lokuputha]

Well I thinking I'd do both power and ground

Where'd you get your wire?

the ground is the car unibody itself....so all you do is find a very good part of the frame that is clean of paint and attach the ground there. You'll need to use an already existing hole or drill one...be careful of the fuel tank though.

In any case...try to make your ground wire as short as possible.


where to get wire?...electrical stores?...just make sure it is low gauge (0 guage is best) high quality wire (somehow)...u will be running a lot of current through them so low resistance is very important.

make sure all your connections are secure and the ground wire is properly grounded. other wise this might happen...sorry to scare u

[djcaz_aom]

Otto, the 0 gauge kit from stinger products is less than $100. That is what I am using in my Wagon. Just add a distribution block under the hood and you are good to go. The block is so you can run your existing power wires under the hood from the 0 gauge. The ground wire is included in the kit and should be no longer than 18 inches.

Another thing to consider, is that if you will not be running a maintenance free battery, get the battery kit from Summit as it routes the battery fumes outside the vehicle.

Hope this helps. If you have more questions, just ask. I'll answer what i can, and if I don't know, I know someone that does.

Good luck on the battery relocation and don't take any short cuts or your CB will end up like the Caddy a few posts up.

[Otto]

I'd definetly use 0 gauge that is soft with thick insulation.
I was thinking a separate ground would be better, as there tends to be a small voltage drop front to back, but maybe I'm too worried about that small bit. Plus the long wire will have a tiny voltage drop, too, so what the hey.
I'll take a look at that kit from Summit, thanks djcaz_aom.

I don't know when/if it'll happen. Still have brakes to do and other things in life.

[Otto]

If I do...this looks like the ticket. I wouldn't have to buy a new battery and can use standard (read: cheap) batteries. And it has all hardware and wire. I have a distrobution block that I can use up front, but as I said, I'd rather go straight to the starter.
My first thought is to strap/attach it to the support on the drivers side that the antenna is attached to, as I could put the vent hose through the chassis vent.
Although I'm thinking I would mount it on the right of the trunk, and just run a longer vent hose to the outside. Or make a spot in the chassis for the vent hose.

Any thoughts/recommendations for a battery cut-off switch?
And I'm sure the difference between 1 and 1/0 gauge. That has always baffled me. I guess 1/0 is just a hair bigger.

Oh...I'll also be adding a 1.2 farad capacitor to the circuit.

[cleanz_28]

ya homie is gonna get me and install a remote start alarm...so I was thinking when some one is trying to drive with my and in counter my alarm,there gonna go staight to the hood to disconect it...they cant if the battery is not there