Headers S.S. vs Ceramic

[deevergote]

Sure its all about backpressure mang.

if your setup doesnt compliment the motor and/or work then its going to run like shit.

Actually, it's not about backpressure at all. Backpressure is ALWAYS a bad thing.

It's about exhaust flow velocity. You need to keep the exhaust gasses flowing freely, but with enough velocity to keep from becoming excessively turbublant or stagnant.

Ever shoot spitballs? You can only blow so hard, so you're limited in the size of the tube you could use. Blow a spitball through a paper towel roll, and you'll be lucky if it rolls out and lands on your shoes. Do it from a drinking straw and it'll fly. Do it from a juice-box straw, and you'll never be able to blow with full force.


4-1 makes the best high-end power. This is the best header for a race application.

4-2-1 retains a good deal of low-end power, while freeing up some high end. This is the best choice for a daily driver, unless you want maximum power and have some major mods in mind (personally, I want cams, an upgraded valvetrain, and fresh forged internals... when I can rev to 9,000, making power from 4500 won't be a problem for me!)




When you add a header, exhaust, and intake to your car, you're almost ALWAYS losing low end power.

For a street-only car, your best bet is a short ram intake, 4-2-1 header, and a 2.25" exhaust (for an F22A).



Nothing is free. Everything has it's cost. One of the only mods you can do that won't have any noticable negative impact on power would be underdrive pullies. Everything else will cause a powerband shift, usually upwards.

[deevergote]

well 4-1 is for high end power. and its 2.5 thats wat i want is high end power on a stock motor

If your car makes the most power at 5,500, how often are you going to be driving in that range?


125whp from 3000-4500 is better than 140whp from 4500-6000. With stock internals and valvetrain, how long will your motor last if you rev that high?


Not that high-end is a bad thing, but educate yourself about it. Figure out what you want from your car, realistically. Then figure out what has to be done to get it (including what compromises and sacrifices have to be made).

Cheapie ebay companies make a KILLING off of people that want power, and have no idea how it is made. Anyone can say a header makes 35hp to the wheels. If you don't know WHY (and NO header for our cars can make that... half of that is a GOOD header) then you'll never know what's BS and what is real!


www.cb7tuner.com/bookstore.htm
^read up. Honda/Acura Engine Performance by Mike Kojima is a GREAT place to start. With JUST the knowledge gained from that book, you could build a streetable car in the low-13s. Easily.

[ceebee9]

how about stainless exhaust to stainless header VS. CERAMIC HEADER TO STAINLESS exhaust(catbk) will there be a difference in tone at all compared

[ceebee9]

anyone heard anything about DC headers ports not being big enough for H-series thus causing restriction?

[F20A CB7]

If your car makes the most power at 5,500, how often are you going to be driving in that range?


125whp from 3000-4500 is better than 140whp from 4500-6000. With stock internals and valvetrain, how long will your motor last if you rev that high?


Not that high-end is a bad thing, but educate yourself about it. Figure out what you want from your car, realistically. Then figure out what has to be done to get it (including what compromises and sacrifices have to be made).

Cheapie ebay companies make a KILLING off of people that want power, and have no idea how it is made. Anyone can say a header makes 35hp to the wheels. If you don't know WHY (and NO header for our cars can make that... half of that is a GOOD header) then you'll never know what's BS and what is real!


www.cb7tuner.com/bookstore.htm
^read up. Honda/Acura Engine Performance by Mike Kojima is a GREAT place to start. With JUST the knowledge gained from that book, you could build a streetable car in the low-13s. Easily.

ok i understand wat u mean, i jus want a stock motor with normal i/h/e so i can c where u comin from about the gain i need for wat i wanna do. but in the long RUN for any upgrades to vavletrain and etc. that 4-1 will come in handy. the cb already has nice low end and decent mid range. but lacks at high end. from 5500-redline there really no power i can feel it strugglin. liek tryin hard to gain power. .. but wat about this DEV.. a 4-1 header. with a collector of 2.5 with 2.25 pipin from cat back. i know ill b loosin low end but ull gain mid to redline power once in motion

[deevergote]

Well, the 2.5" to 2.25" will create a bottleneck, so that will create some turbulance in the collector area. It could work, but it would still suffer in the high end a bit. I can't say for sure, however. A 2.5" collector to a 2.5" exhaust for an H22 would be ideal, but for an F22, I can't really say for sure.


sleepersweepers, the ceramic coating on the mild steel of the DC header won't change the sound one bit. It has nothing to do with it. As for the "ports"... I never heard that. The collector for the H22 headers made by DC have been a weak spot, and just now they're making larger ones (2.25" was the old size, 2.5" is the new size). Perhaps that's what you've heard?

[Pandemic]

wow, there is a ton of good information going around. Do cb7tuner's get any discounts from bisi? Could we order like 10 or something for a discount? Tell you what, if they make a 4-2-1 I stainless I think I'd get theirs. Have to look at warranties also tho.

After I do the h22 tb/h22 plenum/f22a6 runners IM conversion and get the headers, the next thing I'll do is port and polish everything.

After that... well... it'll last me till about 175,000 then maybe I'll work on the engine internals. 65,000 miles on this engine so with all of this, it should open it up and make it a fair bit better.

[deevergote]

Only 65k? Wow! That's a baby!

I believe all of Bisi's headers are 4-1, but I'm not positive. If you plan on doing internal, along with a P&P, camshaft, and valvetrain, I would definitely go for the Bisimoto header. I would suggest a cheaper alternative to someone who wouldn't want to open their motor.
If you want, you could get a cheap (sub-$100) header from ebay until you're ready to do the headwork at least. It would provide some gains over stock, and it won't kill your wallet. You could probably sell it for $50 or more when you upgrade.

I really wouldn't spend any more than $200 (and that's pushing it!) for anything less than the Bisimoto header for the F22. DC is overpriced, mainly because it is CARB legal. Get Megan Racing or a no-name cheapie.

As for a group-buy, I'm not sure. It would be nice, but that $600 price is already quite reasonable! They will be available soon, so we'll be able to find out.

Taken from the Bisimoto website:
NOTE: June is here! Our new designs are slated for order taking this month. Our huge stock of stainless steel piping and flanges is almost here. Stay tuned for customer ordering timeframes.

[Pandemic]

Well, I think i'm going to work on the TB, intake manifold and headers, port and polish everything and then thats it. I dont want to work on the engine itself till its got way more miles on it.
Man, I should get something cheap... but idk, I'm going to look around for some stainless steel headers, DC is nice, but who knows... I wish magnaflow made headers... I have their catback exhaust... its sweet.

I'll look around I suppose.
I would LOVE to do a drivetrain upgrade... but my car is automatic
bought it 2 years ago at 28,000 miles... now has 65,000