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** CHIPPED ECU TUNING JOURNAL **

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    ** CHIPPED ECU TUNING JOURNAL **

    Welcome to Mrx’s wild tuning adventures!!!

    Well folks I finally got the turbo setup put on a couple of days ago. But because I’m using a chipped ecu with a free software program called Uberdata (and Crome at times) I’ve decided to basically make this a journal so you can see what the tuning process involves. I’ll be posting up tips, procedures, and helpful info on how to custom tune a turbo car or any car for that matter. Before I begin I’d like to start off by thanking wikkedv16, zigenballz, homemadeturbo, Stephen, and all the free software programmers for making this possible (and anyone else who would like their names input ).

    Ok, to start off my car doesn’t like me and fights me on everything I do to it so as I make progress something always goes wrong. I’m getting used to it and so will you lol. So don’t let my bad luck get you discouraged on chipped ecu’s. Testing and tuning will be done with a p05 ecu. This ecu is from any 92-95 civic vx. The ecu works fine on any obd1 car but the ecu does not have an 02 sensor heater and will give a CEL code 41 (02 heater sensor) if a transistor is not soldered into Q31 (that fact will come into play a little later). Its not harmful to not have the transistor seeing as you can just disable the 02 heater on uberdata and crome anyways. If I had the chance to go back I would definitely have bought a p06 ecu from the 92-95 civic dx and lx’s so I wouldn’t have to worry about the 02 heater thing. Since I am turbo’d now I’m using the dsm 450cc injectors and for tuning I have a Zeitronix wideband 02 sensor and data logging software.

    The major problem with custom tuning the cb7 is the f-series and h-series engines have oddball ecu’s and its very very difficult to get a basemap for the engines. So when I finally finish this map atleast the f-series owners will have a more public and solid starting point. So yea I’m the guinea pig. Nevertheless our goal is to create a fully custom map to run as close to stock as possible, has a beautiful a/f ratio at idle, partial throttle, and WOT. And doesn’t waste too much gas. This’ll take a while. I’ll be creating three maps. One will be a bone stock map, another will a basemap for the turbo accords, and the last will be the map I personally use on my car. Estimated time frame for completion?…don’t rush me!

    My first map (will post later) is a mix between about 4 separate maps I’ve come across. It’s a Frankenstein map composed of bits and pieces from one that zigen made, one wikked16 made, a h22 map I found on the uberdata website, and a stock LS integra map.

    Before I started putting on the turbo setup I started testing maps on the p05 ecu to try to get a feel for what was going on. My first map was the stock p06 map. It took a little longer than stock to start the car under this map, once it started it idled a little rough at about 300 rpm, and took forever to reach even 2000 rpm at WOT…literally like 10 full seconds from idle. By this time wikkedv16 had created a couple of maps to test out while I was still n/a. I tested just about every map that uberdata came with and all of his. But the same problem persisted: car wouldn’t start, bad idle or the car couldn’t hold an idle for more than a couple of seconds, and really slow revs. By the end of the day the combustion chambers were just flooded with fuel from all of the attempted starting. So I plugged the stock ecu back in and after a couple cranks she started up and cleared out the cylinders for me so I could try again the next day. I’d begun to understand uber and how to use it so I started modifying maps on my own and sure enough I got one of them to work. It’s idle was ok (a bit rich and a bit high), but the revs were a lot faster (still not stock). I modified the stock p06 map actually because it was one of the only maps that could hold an idle even tho it was low.

    First I opened up the bin highlighted the entire “fuel lo” map and added about 5% of fuel. Then, highlighted the first 4 or 5 columns and rows and added another 5% or so (adjust accordingly). In the fuel lo matrix it seems like 3 rows down and the 1st and 2nd columns across is how you control the idle which will now be referred to as the “idle plot”. Adjusting the idle plot seemed to have the most effect on idle quality. So adjust that about 1 point at a time. If the car immediately dies after it starts or idles too low then it needs more fuel in the boxes that surround the idle plot. Adding fuel on the first 3 columns and first row helps keep the car from dying. Most of the maps I’ve seen start off with the first values being a bit higher than the idle plot and points further into the map. An attempt to save the motor from dying I believe. After I did that everything seemed to be progressing smoothly. It was still really slow on the open road because the ignition timing was off but it was a start, right? I can’t remember which map it is now by the way lol. But the important thing is I learned how and where to modify these maps. Definitely label your maps in the most non-confusing manner possible. Make notes about each program you write and what you changed between say version 1, version 2, and so on. Have an extra set of spark plugs ready and even a battery charger if you expect to be doing a lot of cranking.

    3 nights ago I got the 450cc injectors in and started the car with the stock ecu. It started up fine but idled like a mustang with a lobey camshaft. That’s ok just needed to make sure the car started. So 2 nights ago I put in the chipped ecu to control the 450cc’s. The car started fine and my project was finally somewhat of a success. Really rich across all of the power band but still started and idled somewhat ok. The car was still on jackstands so I put in the wideband 02, hooked up the wires, and my laptop. All of a sudden the car dies immediately after I start the engine and continues to until I give up. Ok, fine…just for kicks lets toss in the stock ecu . Car starts beautifully…wtf? Its not excessively rich during idle. The stock 02 sensor wasn’t even attached anymore just the wideband. And since I have a laptop I was able to see the a/f ratios on cold idle all the way to warm idle.

    They started in the mid 14’s and gradually dropped down to the low 11’s. 11’s is pretty rich but I wasn’t able to smell any unburned gas. But since the car the the whole point of the project is to get the chipped ecu controlling the car…I pulled the stock ecu back out. And put the stock 02 sensor back in. The combination of the chipped p05 and the wideband didn’t mix well but the p05 and the stock 02 work fine. This may be because the lack of the 02 heater in the p05 ecu circuitry as previously mentioned in the beginning. I’ll have to get another 02 bung welded in the exhaust piping so I can have the stock and wideband sensors in at the same time. Tossed in a map and it held and idle and revved fine. The map was already rich for boost just in case I actually got to see a psi or 2. So…test run!!! Upon backing the car up it was giving me a little bit of grief as in it was really rich even at partial throttle. Rich to the point that it would stumble up the rpms and even fall at points. I was only going to the end of the street but decided to go all the way out the neighborhood to the Wal-mart a mile away. I couldn’t even rev the engine past about 3K rpm while in gear. No matter the amount of throttle I gave it the car was just too rich.

    Once I got out of the neighborhood and about a ¼ mile from walmart I went WOT from about 20 mph…and went absolutely nowhere fast lol…I did hear the bov pop off tho lol. I think that’s when I blew off a charge pipe tho. The rest of the ride there was with my hazards on cause the amount of fuel being dumped into the engine was amazing. The car was barely driveable and I couldn’t get past about 30 mph or so. Pulled into the parking lot and the car shut off. After a couple of attempts it started. But there was still too much fuel being dumped. Its like it was drowning the engine and the only way to keep it alive was to heel toe and never let the throttle plate completely close. Found a parking spot and the car died right when I let off the throttle. I still had the laptop with me and the chip burner so I figured I’d just burn a much leaner map…little did I know I had about 10 minutes left of battery life on the laptop. And I forgot the charger! Lol…so I burned a chip quickly and the laptop shut off a couple of seconds after the chip finished.

    Got out the car to check things out while my g/f went into wal-mart. I’d blown off one of the charge pipes but everything else was fine...easy fix since I never put the front bumper back on anyways. The new chip was a little better but the idle wouldn’t hold itself up anymore. So I’d just have to heel toe the entire way home to keep from stalling. Before we got into the neighborhood we noticed that accelerating from about 2000-2300 rpm was fine and felt good…for a couple of seconds anything above that drowned the engine so I tried to coast at 2100 rpm or so. We made it into the neighborhood and I got bold lol…decided to go WOT again at about 25 mph in 2nd gear…I stomp the gas pedal and the engine drowns and stumbles up the rpm and then…BAMMMMM!!! This HUUUUUUUGE backfire lights up the night sky lmao!!! I saw it while I was looking forward it was so bright. My g/f thought it came out the front of the engine right by the front passenger side tire but it was just the reflection of the explosion in the side mirror and rear view mirror. Took it easy on the way home and let off the throttle b4 I got to my house…car died of course b4 I turned off the engine. Put in a different chip and it was able to atleast start better than the last chip.
    Last edited by MRX; 08-25-2004, 05:36 PM.
    Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

    #2
    The next day I pulled the spark plugs and all of them were black…tip of advice don’t switch to the good spark plugs until AFTER the tuning is almost complete lol. Couldn’t get the car to idle through the cold idle without my foot on the throttle. After a couple of attempted starts I pulled the plugs again and they were wet with fuel. The stock ecu couldn’t even hold an idle anymore so I’m pretty sure the cylinders are a bit flooded. Won’t even start now so I’ll try some fresh plugs and starting fluid later tonight and see how it does . Yes I’ll post pix of the maps I’m using and keep modifying.

    Uberdata for dummies:

    1. DOWNLOAD THE PROGRAM! - http://uberdata.pgmfi.org/forum/atta...rdata_1.70.zip

    2. Open the program by clicking on the uberdata icon -
    Go up to FILE>open>GSR.bin (yes i know you don't have a GSR just follow along please)
    After the GSR.bin is open go up to the IMPORT tab and select which ever ecu your uberdata chip will be for. The two most common are the P06 and the P28 bins.
    *sidenotes*
    -The p05 will run off the p06 bin
    - The reason we have to import the LS, p06, p28, etc. bins is because they will not open directly. However, once you use "save as," and change the bin name you can open it directly.
    - Always put ".bin" at the end of the file name. (Example TurboF22V22.bin)
    - Only bins that are in the uberdata folder can be opened. So anything you get from someone else must be saved into the uber folder

    3. Click the Fuel tab, notice the numbers across the top of the map (x-axis)? The first 10 numbers are the vacuum pressure numbers and the next numbers are boost in PSI. The vacuum numbers are the same numbers that you see on the left side of the boost gauge shown here .
    The numbers along the left side are the engines RPM's (y-axis).
    *Sidenotes*
    - 0 vac is when the engine is either turned off or you are at wide open throttle. At idle our engines are usually at 19-21 in/hg in vacuum, cruising vacuums can range greatly but i usually find myself in the 16-10in/hg range depending on how much throttle i'm giving it, and 0 vac is the lowest an n/a engine can get, and the turbo's obviously produce positive manifold pressure and go into the boost sections.
    - Since turbo's do flow air while the gas is being pressed, that air just makes it easier/acts as an aid to hit 0 vac...not boost necessarily.
    - When cruising and coming off the throttle it is normal for the engine to hit 24 in/hg or higher and run very lean. The engine has to decelerate somehow, right?

    4. Explore all the tabs and see if you know what everything means, see what options it has, and what things you can change. (mainly because I get tired of answering questions like "can you raise my rev limit?")

    5. You can make changes to the map by simply clicking a point on the Grid tab and pressing the percents at the bottom of the screen seen here (******)
    You can also click the GRAPH tab, click, hold and drag values up and down.
    - As a rule of thumb adding/subtracting 10% of fuel changes the A/F ratio by about 1 point.
    - If you want to input a certain number (most commonly done on the ignition map) highlight the section on the grid, muliply it by zero, and add the value in.
    - Ctrl + C = Copy and Ctrl + P = Paste (must have the exact same number of blocks highlighted to paste correctly)
    - Two Uberdatas can be opened at once.
    - On the Graph tab of all the maps try never to let lines cross in and out of eachother, lines can be equal to eachother but do not cross them.

    Other side notes - All 90-93 accords are OBD1. This means any obd1 ecu plugs right in with no wiring mods whatsoever.
    ECU's that work with uberdta - P05, P06, P07, P13, P28, P30, P72, P74, OBD1 P75's. (no mods needed and all can be converted to do the same thing as any others listed. Vtec, IAB's, EGR's, etc included)
    Last edited by MRX; 08-29-2005, 02:21 PM.
    Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

    Comment


      #3
      Glad to see someone s DIY ing to :P

      :up: ill be watching this thread...

      make sure u post links of all the stuff needed...

      I still need to learn a lot regarding the ECU's...

      I also need to find a ECU to chip (h22a + turbo) so wich one should i get There's still a lot of Q's...




      thread : boink:


      Stefan

      No projects at the moment... danm

      2k20:
      For sale Demon+ tunerview RD2 Make offer brand new in box

      Comment


        #4
        god damn that was good to read...

        now that your car is operation... "somewhat"

        you/zigen/and i need to have a uberdata chat again.. to get u somewhat street-able


        Praise The Lowered...

        Comment


          #5
          picture time...

          first we have the marvelous map that got me to wal-mart. Characteristics are: Good idle but not great, excessively rich everywhere else, and barely driveable. The idle plot is highlighted.

          the rows are for rpm and the columns are for the amount of throttle in %...obviously there should only be 10 columns





          see how the first two lines are kinda low? If u look at the matrix its actually very rich. Looking at the column 1000rpm, see how it goes from 15.5 to 27 and the value to the right of the 27 is a whooping 52!...thats very rich and for idle, cruising and partial throttle no where near that much fuel is needed. There is little chance of harming the engine with not enough fuel under partial throttle because there is barely any load on the engine. Lots of fuel needs to be taken away from just above idle all the way to about 3000 rpm. And there also shouldn't be sudden jumps or large gaps between the lines.
          Last edited by MRX; 08-25-2004, 05:58 PM.
          Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

          Comment


            #6
            god it feels soooo good to have a educated intellecual post on here after so much postwhoring bullshit..


            on topic... if u havent already try using the transition effect from 800-1,200... and see how it reacts... if no better idle is improved then u reached an ultimately good point and should not fuck with it.. everywhere else..

            im assuming thats the mix map.. i see some parts of mine.. or resemblance in how the matrix is formatted.. regardless.. if that was too rich.. the accord motor is definetly in a league of its own.. some cars could run fine with that.. so maybe were thinking too big with our maps.. well mine atleast.. now that i KNOW thats too rich.. once i get my comp connected ill start doing leaner maps.. bleh.. u need to just come down here man.. towed if necc..


            edit..

            up to about 10.10 in/Hg it seems fine.. after that.. seems like you added too much fuel.. your not even at the boost tables yet.. and theres already too much fuel.. try leaning that section out until the transition between 0.35 in/Hg and 1.13 in boost section

            second edit.. in reference to above

            2688rpm-6502rpm is where im talking about
            Last edited by WiKKeDV16; 08-25-2004, 06:12 PM.


            Praise The Lowered...

            Comment


              #7
              dear diary

              lol

              Today i put in new spark plugs with a new much leaner map and the car started right away. It was night out when i finally got around to it so i wasn't able to see if black smoke was coming out the exhaust. Had to help the engine through cold idle by holding the gas pedal a bit. Good idle at times but when trying to drive the car it felt like driving a lawnmower. No matter what i did to change the map be it making a very lean map, rich map, highly advanced or highly retarded but its still being retarded. It may be the 02 sensor after that big backfire, i'll pull the code tomorrow. And adjust accordingly.

              p.s. this new guy that just moved here is soooooo cute
              Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

              FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

              Comment


                #8
                Update:

                I started the car this morning and it started right up. I saw a couple puffs of black smoke during the cold idle but not alot. It cold idles at about 1200 or so and i wanna raise that to 1500-1600 rpm. I tried pulling the CEL but it didn't do anything...just gave me a solid CEL and nothing more. I'll investigate later today...idle held very well tho
                Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

                FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

                Comment


                  #9
                  i believe solid CEL means bad ecu.. but who knows.... bleh did u get that p06 yet


                  Praise The Lowered...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by WiKKeDV16
                    i believe solid CEL means bad ecu.. but who knows.... bleh did u get that p06 yet
                    the infamous Code 0... it means a bad ECU, bad eprom or a bad connection somewhere...




                    Good schtuff though mrx... i don't have alot of time right now... so I'll have to read it in detail later...

                    glad it's working out for you though...


                    and I concur on the uber chat idea...
                    RIP Lifsatrip7

                    ...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by ZigenBallZ
                      the infamous Code 0... it means a bad ECU, bad eprom or a bad connection somewhere...




                      Good schtuff though mrx... i don't have alot of time right now... so I'll have to read it in detail later...

                      glad it's working out for you though...


                      and I concur on the uber chat idea...
                      We'll see. If i remember correctly plugging in the stock ecu did the same thing i may be mistaken tho
                      Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

                      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by midnite racer x

                        p.s. this new guy that just moved here is soooooo cute
                        Sorry to go way OT, but are you a girl? If not, hey, it's 2004...just wondering. Good to see the progress...I'm hoping one day I'll be able to buy a good, working turbo ECU...I just don't have the time to tune from scratch. Anyways keep us posted.


                        Originally posted by lordoja
                        im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

                        Comment


                          #13
                          glory ... lol how did u not get that??

                          hes starting a diary.. so he was ending it like any normal diary ends .. lol.. he was messing around..


                          Praise The Lowered...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Im trying to get a tuned ecu for my 90 f22 turbo. I was wondering if turboedit by jason parker could work. for some reason i think thast my car is obd0. I have been told both ways. My local hondata tuner couldnt figure it out............Plz Help!!!!!!!

                            thanks
                            Turbo f22a/f22b vtec

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by kccb7
                              Im trying to get a tuned ecu for my 90 f22 turbo. I was wondering if turboedit by jason parker could work. for some reason i think thast my car is obd0. I have been told both ways. My local hondata tuner couldnt figure it out............Plz Help!!!!!!!

                              thanks
                              All cb7's are obd1, turboedit will not work for 0bd1 cars. Anybody who says otherwise is completely wrong . Your best choice as far as free software programs are Crome and Uberdata. You'll need either a p05, p06, p74, p75, or any other obd1 ecu. The non-vtec ecu's are cheaper and bustedlx says even if u disable vtec on a vtec ecu it will still give CEL's. So consentrate mostly on non-vtec ecu's. As far as ur tuned ecu goes...gimme some time i'm workin' here lol! PM me your complete setup and i'll try to make something off of my map to suit ur car

                              update:
                              I cut jumper J1, for those that don't know what that means...its the way u return the ecu back to bone stock. Well the solid CEL i was getting went off so its not a bad ecu. Could be one pin not soldered good enough but i've run into this problem b4. I was getting a solid CEL a couple months back so i made sure i didn't cold solder anything by reheating all the solder points and it was fixed. Well now its back so i'll try the same method and hope for the best. In the mean time i ordered a p06 and more chipping parts. I also wrote some of my map to the new version of uberdata and lemme tell u the cold idle is great and it idles really well.
                              Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

                              FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

                              Comment

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