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[MortsAccord]

I am indeed going to run a trans cooler opinions on that would be greatly appreciated.

At the moment i have honda ATF ready to go, it should do just fine while N/A. But do you have any proof of your fluid statements? i have ran Amsoil in a few vehicles and the products are great, but never trans fluid.

right here shows why its a superior choice:
TYPICAL TECHNICAL PROPERTIES
AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445) 7.6
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445) 38.9
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270) 168
Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-92) 234 (453)
Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97) -53 (-63)
FZG Load Stage Pass (ASTM D-5182) 12
Four Ball Wear Test, Scar in mm; 40 kg, 75°C, 1200 rpm, 1 hr (ASTM D-4172B) 0.41
Brookfield Viscosity @ -40°C, cP (ASTM D-2983) 9800

here are some links to honda's Z-1 ATF

http://www.worldpac.com/tagged/Idemi...00-900-OES.pdf

http://www.selubeproducts.com/LinkCl...bid=58&mid=377

These are obviously different based on their COC rating of 170C vs 186C, however amsoils rating is 234C. Its obvious just with that number which oil is superior. With a flash point of 170-190 typical 4 ball wear test come out at .75-1.1 With amsoil being a .41 thats an incredible ammount of wear protection.

Look up various oils and see if they even publish statistics like mobil 1 redline or amsoil does. If you can't find it or get a good solid link from at least a company rep, id use an alternative fluid.

There are certian tests an oil must go through to even have certifications, and the minimum criteria they need to meet to get specific labels. If I recall correctly the min NOACK volatility for any SM oil today is <15% Thats freaking TERRIBLE. That means at 1 hour at 150C the oil will lose that % of its weight. This is how "sludge" is made in your engine.

Heres a link thats pretty much an amsoil advocate, however theres informative reading to be had.
http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/wha...ility_test.htm

EDIT:
Inline filters reduce wear, an example is oil filtration for your engine. if you go from using a orange fram(horse shit filter) to say a purolator pureone(best filter on the market for the money), you essentiall will reduce engine wear by 70%. Oil coolers keep the flid from overheating and thinning out too much which keeps it protecting your componets much better(you all probably knew that)

[SOHC-FTW]

I appreciate that fluid information alot.

About the trans cooler i know it's purpose, my main issue is what to go with. I'm all ears for anyone's opinion on a decent setup! Correct me if i'm wrong but didn't certain ex's use factory coolers i'm pretty certain they did. Now would an OEM cooler setup be sufficient enough?

[Jarrett]

For the amount of power you're wanting to put down I think you're going to have to look to the aftermarket. As to your question about the aftermarket cooler, are you sure you're not thinking about the oil cooler that was on '92-'93 EXs that came with automatics? That was a sandwich plate between the block and the filter. The only thing it had to do with an automatic is that it was limited to those cars for some reason.

[SOHC-FTW]

For the amount of power you're wanting to put down I think you're going to have to look to the aftermarket. As to your question about the aftermarket cooler, are you sure you're not thinking about the oil cooler that was on '92-'93 EXs that came with automatics? That was a sandwich plate between the block and the filter. The only thing it had to do with an automatic is that it was limited to those cars for some reason.

That might be it, i couldn't remember off the top of my head that's why i asked thanks for that.

As for aftermarket they seem to be alot of choices out there. I was just browsing summit looks like i'll have to piece a setup together which shouldn't be hard once i look into it a bit more.

[toycar]

For budget I would get an OEM tranny cooler off of a pickup truck at the JY. Just make sure the fittings are manageable. If budget is not an issue, well shit the options are really yours. I would suggest mounting it in front of the radiator instead of behind it. It will cool better that way.


I would run an inline filter and upgraded fluids too, Morts is giving you solid advice there for an auto tranny. You might have to adjust the size of your lines if you run a stall. I know you suggested an OEM replacement, but if stall should come up pressure and flow may come into question.

If you start feeling like a stall is in your future, I would work out the plans on that first before installing anything so you dont have to do the work twice.

[Phate]

That might be it, i couldn't remember off the top of my head that's why i asked thanks for that.

As for aftermarket they seem to be alot of choices out there. I was just browsing summit looks like i'll have to piece a setup together which shouldn't be hard once i look into it a bit more.

Just get a $40-50 hayden transmission cooler from advance autoparts, and some transmission cooler line from the shelf right next to the cooler. The cooler hose takes the same barb-style fittings as the transmission. Don't even bother attaching it to the stock transmission cooler that is in the bottom of the radiator.

For fluids, I recommend Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF. Its similar to ATF-Z1, but has a lot less friction modifiers in it. In my car it made the trans shift faster and grab the next gear harder. Trans seems to take longer for it to heat up as well. With an effed up F22B2 that makes maybe 110hp, it will scrub the tires on the 1-2 shift on wet pavement, and it also tugs at the wheel pretty good. Also only costs like $17 for a gallon.

[MortsAccord]

Just get a $40-50 hayden transmission cooler from advance autoparts, and some transmission cooler line from the shelf right next to the cooler. The cooler hose takes the same barb-style fittings as the transmission. Don't even bother attaching it to the stock transmission cooler that is in the bottom of the radiator.

For fluids, I recommend Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF. Its similar to ATF-Z1, but has a lot less friction modifiers in it. In my car it made the trans shift faster and grab the next gear harder. Trans seems to take longer for it to heat up as well. With an effed up F22B2 that makes maybe 110hp, it will scrub the tires on the 1-2 shift on wet pavement, and it also tugs at the wheel pretty good. Also only costs like $17 for a gallon.

COC rating of only 202C and a NOACK volatility of 11%. not something id even consider using in his type of application. and theres no 4 ball wear test that I could quickly find.

A quick look on COC ratings of various lubes will give great insight on how good the oil really is.

[Phate]

COC rating of only 202C and a NOACK volatility of 11%. not something id even consider using in his type of application. and theres no 4 ball wear test that I could quickly find.

A quick look on COC ratings of various lubes will give great insight on how good the oil really is.

From what I can find, the spamsoil full syn ATF (the valvoline is also fully syn if I'm not mistaken) also has a NOACK volatility of 11%, so I'm not seeing your issue there. The flashpoint of the amsoil is better (220C vs the 202C you claim, Valvoline's website isn't up right now).

Its a hell of a lot better than the stock fluid, and its cheap enough that you can use it to get rid of all the garbage Z1 that's in there. Primary problem I've seen with Z1 is the high levels of FM that it has. The extra FM was added so honda could use a single fluid for both their automatic trans and their CVTs. It also still kills the new DW-1 on flashpoint (170C vs 202C)

I've been running it hard in my car for around 15k, and I can say it has worked extremely well. I'm sure the cooler I'm running helps, but if the swap I have lined up for my car falls through, I'll be testing this fluid with a turbo kit. If it doesn't like 200whp, I can at least say it makes an excellent replacement for the OEM fluids. Change it every 20-30k, and don't overheat the trans.

[deevergote]

I believe keeledesign was working on an automatic shift kit for our cars as well. I'm not sure if that project is still going or what...

In general, our automatics are not very performance-oriented, so there's not a whole lot of real performance enthusiasts working with them. I'd love to see some people really get serious with them, though! They're well-made, and can handle a lot if not abused. Sadly, most people don't seem to understand the importance of transmission maintenance.

[Phate]

I believe keeledesign was working on an automatic shift kit for our cars as well. I'm not sure if that project is still going or what...

In general, our automatics are not very performance-oriented, so there's not a whole lot of real performance enthusiasts working with them. I'd love to see some people really get serious with them, though! They're well-made, and can handle a lot if not abused. Sadly, most people don't seem to understand the importance of transmission maintenance.

Part of the problem is the stock fluid (although the newer DW-1 is a lot better), but really if you don't let these things overheat, I see very little reason for them not holding some decent power. They are designed very much like a manual transmission.

[deevergote]

I think so many of them have gone for 100k miles or more (very often MUCH more) on the original fluid. Almost every non-enthusiast I talk to about cars has admitted to me that it never even occurred to them to change the transmission fluid!
Our 20 year old automatics have gotten a reputation for being "weak and unreliable", and that is more often due to neglect (and possibly abuse on top of that)... but often attributed to the design.
The sad thing is that it is pretty expensive to rebuild an automatic, and if you're rebuilding... you might as well upgrade! Even a well-designed transmission won't take too much additional strain if it has spent the past 20 years and 150,000+ miles being neglected.

[kinguin7]

What would happen if you left the linear solenoid unplugged? My VERY limited understanding suggests that it would maintain full line pressure through the shift.

One of the engineers for the Ford 4R70W wrote a paper detailing how to modify the valve body to shift faster without an increase in line pressure, I wish someone had/would do the same for this trans. I imagine someone who understood the hydraulic gates/valves/etc could figure it out.