Launch control

[mozzandherb]

Agreed, launch control on the street is not smart. That's why I said if you're into racing i.e on the dragway, then it is very beneficial

[1qukcb7]

I will be doing alot of racing this year, so add 25% and ret timming eh? I'm not to sure how much abuse the stock axles will take... I just wanna build about 2-3psi to start, then slowly make my way up to 9-10 with slicks, I am running hondatas300... I dnt have a egt what rpm should I start with?

[turbo90accord]

set it at 5200 rpm. If your not on slicks though you may not even want to bother cause launching at 3psi of boost on street tires wont really get you anywhere and your just gonna launch with too much power and spin your tires all the way through first.

the stock axles in good condition can handle well over 500hp. just learn how to drive and preload your drivetrain (search for preload as i have covered this before) and your drivetrain, axles and clutch will thank you.

[twokexlv6coupe]

why would you want launch control for the streets anyway? That's idiotic.

anti-lag/launch control has no place on the street. launching at street lights will do 2 things, 1 break your car, 2 get you a ticket for exibition of speed.

Agreed, launch control on the street is not smart. That's why I said if you're into racing i.e on the dragway, then it is very beneficial

well jesus, i wasn't looking for parental advice on what i should/shouldn't do with my car, or else i'll get grounded.
notice how i said "using launch control at the track"

which is why i wanna raise mine, cuz i think 3500 is too low for the track.

[mozzandherb]

well jesus, i wasn't looking for parental advice on what i should/shouldn't do with my car, or else i'll get grounded.
notice how i said "using launch control at the track"

which is why i wanna raise mine, cuz i think 3500 is too low for the track.

Sorry, didnt see "using launch control at the track" anywhere. Anyhow, it's really a matter of trial and error as to what you set your launch control at. It depends on track conditions, it depends on what kind of tires you're using, it depends on how you launch your car, and it depends on how you drive. I would simply just go to the track and mess around with what your able to control, like tire pressure and ways to launch. Trial and error is the best route because there's is no precise way, it all depends on the variables. I had my best 60' time with my tire pressure at 10psi and launching at 6200rpm, but then I went into the tower lane with the same tire pressure and launch and because the track was different my 60' time was much higher.

[rossisalvage]

he said "mine USED to be variable, but the tuner switched it when i got dyno'd, so now when i'm @ the track attempting to do a burnout, since the track is so slick, 3500 isn't high enough so when i dump the clutch i just get CRAZYYYYYYY wheel hop instead of spinning the tires "

hahahahah I’m not even going to waste my time going into launch control on the streets, but thanks for the good laugh, the responses on these forums never cease to amaze me since every tuner is a perfect law abiding citizen who never exceeds the speed limit under any circumstance and drives extremely slow when the car next to them is messing around even on an empty rural road

[almostJDM]

You should get a traction bar

[WilliamW]

Let me bring a question into this Launch Control thread if it's alright with everyone. (if not please ignore me lol)

Launch Control, what are the dangers of setting it up improperly and what is the toll on the car with using it?

If using launch control on the streets will break your car (and get you a ticket) won't it break your car on the track too?

I'm just trying to understand the desire to have it. To me it's neat and I can see how it would make better 1/4 mile times but on a DD it seems like the cons far outweigh the pros.

[evil_demon_01]

Launch Control, what are the dangers of setting it up improperly and what is the toll on the car with using it?

I'm just trying to understand the desire to have it. To me it's neat and I can see how it would make better 1/4 mile times but on a DD it seems like the cons far outweigh the pros.

1) If setup wrong it will destroy your engine, much like using an incorrect basemap.

2)Using it on a DD at every set of lights you stop at is just being stupid, It makes you look like a dick, and does no favors for your engine.

It creates high EGT's which can eat exhaust valves and turbine wheels.

[deevergote]

It has NO purpose on a DD. I had it on mine, but then again... I would never need to rev over 3500 in neutral anyway! The fuel cut type that I have makes the a/f ratio drop to dangerously lean when it cuts (obviously...). For a short time, it's relatively harmless... but holding it could do damage, and overusing it could as well.

On a drag strip, it's good to have because you can ensure a launch at the optimum RPM, without having to guess. Basically, it takes the need to coordinate your gas and clutch feet... you just floor the gas, concentrate on the clutch.

[turbo90accord]

launch control is also VERY hard on valvetrain and can cause valve float and broken retainers. i wouldnt suggest it without upgraded valvetrain. especially if your building boost.

[1qukcb7]

set it at 5200 rpm. If your not on slicks though you may not even want to bother cause launching at 3psi of boost on street tires wont really get you anywhere and your just gonna launch with too much power and spin your tires all the way through first.

the stock axles in good condition can handle well over 500hp. just learn how to drive and preload your drivetrain (search for preload as i have covered this before) and your drivetrain, axles and clutch will thank you.

see I wasn't sure about the stock axles, I wanted to run slicks on them but wasn't sure if they would handle the track abuse, but if I "preload" I should be ok?!?! I'll have to look this up, care to explain?!

[turbo90accord]

snapped axles are usually due to not preloading the drive line. When you are not preloaded, and you drop the clutch all the slop in the trans and axles gets magnified and localized in the axles.

Preloading works by utillizing the ebrake at the line as your brakes and letting the clutch out slightly to create a load present in the whole drive train so there is not nearly as much shock when compared to just dropping the clutch. It puts more wear on your clutch but thats better than broken trannies and axles.

Another good investment is the tilton flow control valve which restricts the clutch pressure when you drop the clutch allowing "slip" at the clutch which also prevents driveline damage.

[1qukcb7]

alright so i did some tinkering with the launch control and got it to work well, i was able to build 8psi of boost, i added 127 for fuel and -25 for timing... for about 4 psi i used 50 and -10 so i got a better understanding now on how it work... thanks for explaining pre loading it makes perfect sense!