F22B DOHC vs F22A + Boost Q's

[CB7Nub]

1) Some of the turbo builds have F22B* (DOHC, B1 etc) blocks and F22A heads, is there a bigger advantage of the F22B* blocks versus our stock blocks? Same question for the head F22A head vs F22B* head.

2) Sleeves will be needed I want some type of assurance this build will last more than a year under normal-weekend track conditions. Is there a difference between the types of sleeves I can get done for the block? Or are they all relativitly the same.

3) Noob question: F22B DOHC's have IAB's?

4) C/R, some people have kept it at 8.8, while others bump it up to 9.1 or 9.3. I have been done that a lower C/R is more safe as it won't destroy parts as easy if your pushing it or something. What's a good low C/R for a 300WHP to 400WHP build? If that's able to be guessed.

5) Some people have been mixing other parts such as H23 valves and stem seals, even with a GSR timing belt? Is there any advantage of the H23 valves versus lets say Bisimoto valves? Cost/power I'm guessing is bigger with the Bisimoto, but will the H23 be anywhat better than stock? GSR timing belt, is it built better or something?

6) What is a balance shaft and why do some people have balance shaft eliminator kits?

7) Crome, Hondata, AEM, etc. Do you guys prefer a certain program? One my local tuners does Crome and Neptune but prefers Crome. Bisi highly discourages these Crome and free programs and uses AEM. Is it necessary to have AEM or equivalent to make good realiable power?

8) Can you make a hybrid build reliable at all if done properly? G22, etc.

That's all for now.

[Tippey764]

3) yes f22b dohc engines use IAB's

6) The balance shafts are 2 metal shafts that are hooked up to the engines crank and spin at a certine frequency in harmony with the pistons to reduce engine vibration.

[Joey GT-R]

1) Some of the turbo builds have F22B* (DOHC, B1 etc) blocks and F22A heads, is there a bigger advantage of the F22B* blocks versus our stock blocks? Same question for the head F22A head vs F22B* head.
In my experience the only thing you have is a newer block and higher compression ratio for stock builds, I could be wrong.

2) Sleeves will be needed I want some type of assurance this build will last more than a year under normal-weekend track conditions. Is there a difference between the types of sleeves I can get done for the block? Or are they all relativitly the same.
Sleeves are pretty much the same, there are tons of arguments over who is better: Golden Eagle, Darton, Benson, AEBS, M1, ERL, etc your choice; but they WILL be stronger than what your stock sleeves can handle.

3) Noob question: F22B DOHC's have IAB's?
Yes

4) C/R, some people have kept it at 8.8, while others bump it up to 9.1 or 9.3. I have been done that a lower C/R is more safe as it won't destroy parts as easy if your pushing it or something. What's a good low C/R for a 300WHP to 400WHP build? If that's able to be guessed.
Compression doesn't make your motor safer, it makes it more forgiving in oversight/errors of tuning. You can have 8.8:1 and still blow to smithereens. You can have a motor with 11:1 C/R and still turbo it, but your tuning has to be immaculate, as well as running race gas and water/meth Generally though most people run 8.8:1-9.5:1

5) Some people have been mixing other parts such as H23 valves and stem seals, even with a GSR timing belt? Is there any advantage of the H23 valves versus lets say Bisimoto valves? Cost/power I'm guessing is bigger with the Bisimoto, but will the H23 be anywhat better than stock? GSR timing belt, is it built better or something?
An upgraded valvetrain is always good for a motor you're building, but why they would mix and match when the parts available for the specific motor I don't know. Ask the owner of such build or tell us where you saw it.

6) What is a balance shaft and why do some people have balance shaft eliminator kits?
Balance shafts reduce the vibration caused by the crankshaft and camshafts spinning in out of rhythm of each other. Removing them frees up about 8whp, but your motor will shake more and make a bit more noise.

7) Crome, Hondata, AEM, etc. Do you guys prefer a certain program? One my local tuners does Crome and Neptune but prefers Crome. Bisi highly discourages these Crome and free programs and uses AEM. Is it necessary to have AEM or equivalent to make good realiable power?
Crome is good program, but it has a lot of limitations compared to Hondata and the full standalones. I wouldn't recommend it on an all out build; particularly past 250whp, but that's just me.

8) Can you make a hybrid build reliable at all if done properly? G22, etc.
Yes, but the key words are IF DONE PROPERLY. If you don't know what you're doing, it's like having a hole in your wallet. But give us a reason as to why you think you need to build one?

Hope this helps.

[GhostAccord]

If you look into it there are quite a few of the sleeves that are produced by Darton for the different companies.

The real difference in the sleeves is to pick wet or dry. Wet are full cylinders and dry are press fit liners. Dry sleeves are liners that are pressed into your stock aluminum cylinder bores that have been over bored. They do not come into contact with any water jackets and still rely on the aluminum cylinder walls for strength and cooling. WET sleeves on the other hand are just that, wet! They completely remove your old aluminum cylinder walls and Iron sleeves. Then they put in a completely new 100% iron cylinder. They come in direct contact with the coolant jackets and therefore are cooled directly by the cooling system.

Hondata is not a full anything, it is definitely not a stand alone. it is modified OBD1 Honda ECU, same ones Crome, eCtune and Neptune use. I would use Crome over Hondata any day.

Bisi recommends AEM becuase he is a retailer for AEM. For your build a standalone like the AEM EMS is not necessary. A chipped and tuned Honda OBD1 ECU on Crome will work just fine. As long as it is tuned properly. Get some references from people who have had their cars tuned at your shop.

[Joey GT-R]

Hondata is not a full anything, it is definitely not a stand alone. it is modified OBD1 Honda ECU, same ones Crome, eCtune and Neptune use. I would use Crome over Hondata any day.

Bisi recommends AEM becuase he is a retailer for AEM. For your build a standalone like the AEM EMS is not necessary. A chipped and tuned Honda OBD1 ECU on Crome will work just fine. As long as it is tuned properly. Get some references from people who have had their cars tuned at your shop.

Sorry bout that, edited my post. However if you took Crome and compared it to S300, you're definitely looking at an inferior product IMHO.

I agree Bisi is probably making a bit of change by promoting AEM products. However, I'm sure he used AEM before any sponsorship took place.

[drummersteve7]

Hondata just seems superior to amateurs.
If most poeple had either or they would be confused.

The only cool thing about Hondata is 1 USB cable.
but the demon does that, so whatever.
Crome is descent as long as you get a license code for it.
Live Tuning is where it is at.

[NWaccord]

#5

Valves dont really give you power. Maybe a lil, do to that fact that there oversized or even flat high comp ones. I used H23a1 valves on my f22B because I had brand new ones sitting around with supertech valveguides/seals. The cams/springs/retainers will give power
I also used the Gates Racing "GSR timing belt" on my f22a1 block/DOHC head, it's probably not built any better than OEM one. It is however shorter and has a few teethes less on it. Perfect for my setup!

[KB7]

f22b pistons are less dished, (higher compression) than f22ax pistons

i know cause i have a set, (f22b crank and pistons), lying around, as well as an f22a1 piston. i forgot i had them until i saw the first post of this thread, maybe i should throw them in my f22b1 just for the hell of it.