nope I sure haven't...I want even aware there was such a thing...where would o begin to look for one of these electric water pumps?
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
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F22A SOHC non-VTEC boost build
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Easy way to make a water pump block off would be to take out your OEM pump. Then grind off all of the impeller fins. This way you won't need to make a block off plate and run an odd size timing belt. You just re-install the pump without the fins and run an inline pump and an OEM timing belt.
Here is the pump that I spec'd for my build.

I will be running this pump in a 2 stage ECU controlled cooling system. It will run at 5v and 12v for the two different flow ratings. Approx. 17 GPM @ 5v and 35GPM @ 12v. Temperature activated to open up to 12v.
I have gutted my OEM water pump and will be welding a -20 A/N fitting onto it. All of my coolant hoses and fittings are -20 A/N.
OEM pump gutted and awaiting AN fitting.

Factory coolant tube opening blocked off.
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Forgot to mention that there could be an issue with installing an inline pump in one of the rad hoses. There would be no coolant circulation in the engine until the thermostat opens up. The way the system works now the coolant circulates through the engine block and cylinder head, as well as the heater core, when the thermostat is closed. Once the T-stat opens the coolant then flows through the rad.
Could also put undue stress on the pump if the coolant flow is restricted while the pump is activated.
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I believe my friend kept his thermostat out so he basically has a fully circulated system when he hits the switch. I'm sure he would of done more but after a year of battling with his b16 he just kinda lost inspiration and did it the easiest way he could. He uses the same pump you posted earlier
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Wouldn't it be the same? Having the pump off there would be no water circulating similar to a thermostat closed vs the OEM pump always spinning needing the thermostat to stop the flow.Originally posted by GhostAccord View PostThat would most definitely work if you live in a warm climate or it is a track/summer car where you didn't need any quick interior heat. Running an open thermostat in a cold climate would take for ever for the engine/coolant to warm up in the heater core. Brrrrrr!
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Sure the cylinder head and engine block will heat up. But how does the warm coolant flow through the heater core without a pump? If you try turning on the pump sooner. All of the cold coolant from the rad will flow in and cool everything back down. It will eventually get warm, just not as fast as some may want/need.Originally posted by Sordz View PostWouldn't it be the same? Having the pump off there would be no water circulating similar to a thermostat closed vs the OEM pump always spinning needing the thermostat to stop the flow.
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