So I've got the turbo on at the moment (Not running yet, Charge pipes not hooked up, and wastegate held open) Iv'e had it like this for the past few weeks, just doing the occasional driving round to make sure I'm not getting any leaks or anything. Any way just tonight I noticed when i stop at a set of lights for a minute or so, smoke starts pouring out of the exhaust, rev it up and it all goes away, dont get any smoke on full acceleration, just at idle. Any ideas guys?
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Smoking at Idle
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Smoking at Idle
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute
A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.Tags: None
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What color is the smoke?
The New-ish Ride
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IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1
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my guess is the seals are bad in the turbo, at idel the pressure of the oil is blowing by the seals. also if ur running a boost map it could be to rich, depends on the smoke color and smell. check ur oil levels after is smokes for a bit just sitting see if there goin down. if so pull the turbo and im sure u will most likely see oil around the turbine area.
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Yeah if your seals arent shot and your not just running uber rich, then the key thing is that oil presure reducer... if your oil is hooked up staight outa the block without a reducer, even brand spanking new turbo and brank spankin new seals will get blown by... trust me, i found this out the hard way and all the guys on here that know my car, know that all too well lolol... MAXX oil pressure goin in should be i believe around 30-35 according to Corky Bell is his book "Max Boost" (highhhly recomended for anyone that's boosted or thinking about it).
I had the same scenario, a lil smoke at idle but when i was normally drivin she wasnt even noticable, but then when i punched it... BOOM James Bond type shit haha... So like backfire and Nail said, determine the color, whether it be blueish (oil), blackish (excess fuel/ too rich) or white and smelling real sweet (coolant). Then you can work from there, and if you dont have a pressure reducer, i purchased mine from stealthmodeperformance.com when i bought thier oil feed/return kit...
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Sorry guys, I diddnt mention my car is carb'd. Its definatly oil being burnt not excess fuel. I dont have a restrictor as such, just brass fittings with, for memory about a 1-2mm hole, running through 4mm steel tube. I can take it to 7500 rpms and it wont smoke, only at idle, and only some times. It happened after I adjusted my idle lower, Oil pressure when warm at idle was 5-10 psi, so how is it that oil leaks past the seals at 5-10 psi, but not at 80psi when its cold, or 60psi when its warm?
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute
A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.
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Turbo w/carb....Thats kinda hard to tune. Take a pic of your engine bay.
The New-ish Ride
My old Ride
Hear my Vtak!!!
MK3 Member #3
I piss off people for fun.
IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1
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Its "kinda" hard to tune is right. Relatively speaking that is. It can be easier than chip burning ECU method. However, EFI is much more efficient. Completely off topic, there is a guy around my neighborhood with an old school carb'd, itb'ed, turbo'd Corolla. Its one of the smoothest non factory turbo cars I have ever seen.Originally posted by NAiL05Turbo w/carb....Thats kinda hard to tune. Take a pic of your engine bay.
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"Kinder" hard to tune, yep there will be alot of trial and error, although I'm using a 1.75" SU carb so I can richen/lean the mixture pretty easy.
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute
A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.
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First off you SHOULD definatly get an intercooler! To reduce the intake temps significantly! I will tell you I grab the charge pipe on one side my intercooler that comes off the turbo and its warm, I go to other side of intercooler and its cold! even after a good long rip!
Secondly I will second the notion of you getting blow by the seals on the turbo! How high have you revved it? Think like this your turbo has no way to hold it back from over boosting! The turbine spins as fast as it wants so really your doing more damage to the turbo! I would know I kerfuked a freshly rebuilt 14b by the same thing! Also say you use 1/8" pipe or whatever for your oil feed youll want to reduce the pressure by either installing an restrictor or an valve and close it half way. (this is what I did)
WaC!
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OK, this is where I'm running into conflicts with people. Turbo suck through carb, means that you CANNOT use an intercooler. Can u imagine a fuel/air mix going through an intercooler? The intercooler Cools the air, therefore causes the fuel to turn from a mist into droplets. These droplets sit in the intercooler. IE, you have a fuel source sitting in the front of your car, now thats not as bad as it sounds, but IF you were to get a backfire up your charge pipes . . . . good bye front mount. It also means I can't run an atmospheric Blowoff valve . . . same reason, you would be venting a Fuel/Air mix straight into your engine bay.Originally posted by westsideaccordFirst off you SHOULD definatly get an intercooler! To reduce the intake temps significantly! I will tell you I grab the charge pipe on one side my intercooler that comes off the turbo and its warm, I go to other side of intercooler and its cold! even after a good long rip!
Secondly I will second the notion of you getting blow by the seals on the turbo! How high have you revved it? Think like this your turbo has no way to hold it back from over boosting! The turbine spins as fast as it wants so really your doing more damage to the turbo! I would know I kerfuked a freshly rebuilt 14b by the same thing! Also say you use 1/8" pipe or whatever for your oil feed youll want to reduce the pressure by either installing an restrictor or an valve and close it half way. (this is what I did)
I highly doubt its over boosting as the wastegate is held fully open. You can rev it up (in neutral admittedly) but no air comes out of the charge pipe, and If you drive it, you can hear the turbo just start to spool at about 6000rpms, so its definatly not having to work very hard.
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute
A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.
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Two things,
1) The intercooler comes before the carb, the fuel is imployed through the carb? right, then the intercooler is only gonna cool the air not the fuel. Correct me if im wrong!
2) The turbo is spinning as much as the exhaust pushes it, and pressure it puts into the engine allows! I had mine hooked up to do the same thing boost into the atmosphere and wastegate open and I wrecked mine! TRUST ME ive had this problem only a few weeks ago!!! But now its your call! Turbos arent cheap either!
Some things are often overlooked.
6000rpms! Are you insane? LOL that would be a huge a** turbo! 14b's start spoolong at approx. 2500rpm!Last edited by westsideaccord; 05-28-2006, 05:54 PM.
WaC!
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1) Carb suck through turbo, means that the Carb is mounted Before the turbo, which is why you use a constant depession carb (SU), therfore the charge pipes/ intercooler have a fuel air mix going through them. I could have gone blow through, But I decided to make it easier on myself by going suck through.Originally posted by westsideaccordTwo things,
1) The intercooler comes before the carb, the fuel is imployed through the carb? right, then the intercooler is only gonna cool the air not the fuel. Correct me if im wrong!
2) The turbo is spinning as much as the exhaust pushes it, and pressure it puts into the engine allows! I had mine hooked up to do the same thing boost into the atmosphere and wastegate open and I wrecked mine! TRUST ME ive had this problem only a few weeks ago!!! But now its your call! Turbos arent cheap either!
Some things are often overlooked.
6000rpms! Are you insane? LOL that would be a huge a** turbo! 14b's start spoolong at approx. 2500rpm!
2) lol no turbos arent cheap, It should be finished by the end of this week, and I'm driving my other car untill then. So hopefully my turbo Isnt dead, I guess I'll find out soon enough.
What actually happened to your turbo? Did you have an air filter it?
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute
A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.
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Yup my turbo took a shite! It was for three reasons
1)Used turbo (very little shaft play though)
2)Too much oil pressure from the feed line, so it would blow past the seals
3)Allowed it to boost the atmosphere which allowed it to surge(overboost) and caused the edges of the fins to disintegrate and scratched the housing!
You will be able to tell if you look down the intake of it! The turbine will be smaller than the housing and may have the scratches!
Just a precaution!
Could you further explain the carb setup! I still cant picture it! Are you saying that you put your carb in front of the turbo intake? I would think that to be less efficient cause then your fuel would be sucked through the turbo. Got a diagram? Very interesting!
Good Luck! WaC.Last edited by westsideaccord; 05-29-2006, 06:18 PM.
WaC!
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carb suck through turbo diagram
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute
A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.
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