Water sprayed intercooler

[flacopower]

ok allow me to clarify because there is a lot of misinformation going around in this thread. first:
water spraying your intercooler with yield little to no gains. the cooling just isn't enough to make a difference.
second:
nitrous/c02 also will not make that big a difference. and def won't merit the cost.
finally:
you are on the right track, you do want your charge to be as cool as possible (cold air+fuel=power). however the easiest, most reliable, and most efficient way is to tap into your cold side intercooler piping and place a small nozzle there. you can run an adjustable pressure switch that will activate the water injection when you reach a ceratin psi.. very popular with other cars, but almost unheard of here. i started a thread here with almost zero interest:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=53393

[92ex]

yes, but a "small nozzle" and nothing else will most likely cause your motor to hydrolock. If anything place it on the turbo inlet where the compressor can atomized the water and be a lot safer on the engine. Another way would be to use an injector and place it either on the cold side of the intercooler or on the turbo inlet. Of course this is used under high boost applications normally. I'm just curious to see how this works, can't hurt anything to try. plus a co2 one would look cool as hell, even if it only adds 3hp.

[flacopower]

yes, but a "small nozzle" and nothing else will most likely cause your motor to hydrolock. If anything place it on the turbo inlet where the compressor can atomized the water and be a lot safer on the engine. Another way would be to use an injector and place it either on the cold side of the intercooler or on the turbo inlet. Of course this is used under high boost applications normally. I'm just curious to see how this works, can't hurt anything to try. plus a co2 one would look cool as hell, even if it only adds 3hp.

man where should i start..
hydrolocking: tell all the grand national, dsm, mustang, rx7 guys that placing a small nozzle will hydrolock your motor.. even if there was to be a slow drip, your intake temps can get as high as 190F.. that would be more than enough to vaporize water..
injecting onto compressor:
this is a horrible idea! not only does the water take up space that air could be getting compressed, but have you even begun to think the damage a drop of water would cause your turbine blade as it spins at 120,000 rpms?
placing pre intercooler:
i don't remember the exact reason, but this have catastrophic results due to the pressure drop or something along those lines.. also this has only shown to lower air temps 4-5F while regular water injection can lower from 50-80F..

[92ex]

yes i know about the effects to the compressor blades, that's why it's better to use an injector that already atomizes the water then send it into the compressor. All of the dsm people I've met aren't that smart, so your not saying much there. Ok, so you drip water in your charge pipes and tell me how it goes. I'm telling you right now, it's not a good idea.

[d112crzy]

its not like your pouring water dude, its just a spray, a few dropelts. that by the time it gets to your intake manifold or the intake ports, it will most likely be evaporated by then.

[evil_demon_01]

Water is often a method used to clean the inside of an engine also. I ran water through my engine and quite a bit more than a few drops-Put 1.0L through it in about 1minute at 3000rpms, You can easily see the smoke out the exhaust go white-blue-white, The first white is steam, the blue is oil and carbon deposits, and then the white is steam again confirming the oil and carbon deposits have gone.
In order to hydrolock the engine, quite a fair amount of water has to go into the engine in a very short amount of time.

[flacopower]

Water is often a method used to clean the inside of an engine also. I ran water through my engine and quite a bit more than a few drops-Put 1.0L through it in about 1minute at 3000rpms, You can easily see the smoke out the exhaust go white-blue-white, The first white is steam, the blue is oil and carbon deposits, and then the white is steam again confirming the oil and carbon deposits have gone.
In order to hydrolock the engine, quite a fair amount of water has to go into the engine in a very short amount of time.

i have heard that people that once people who use alky/water injection open up their engine all the pistons and rods look like they have been steam washed..

[evil_demon_01]

Well in theory it does steam clean the engine, Heat+water+compression=steamcleaning
On a side note- NOS has a cleaning effect as well

[flacopower]

water doesn't do the cleaning.. its the alky that does it.. the water is completely raporized in the intake manifold. and when it vaporizes it absorbs heat.. its soooo cheap and so efficient i can't undersatnd why everyone doesn't do it..

[92ex]

it'd be easy to screw up and blow your motor. the reason i won't do it is because of electronics. you have to have the water set to spray at certain temps or boost levels, only a certain amount of water, and you have to have it cut off. and then if it leaks, the injector goes bad, or a solenoid, there goes your motor. i believe the kits are kind expensive for it, diy would work, but again, electronics. since thats my worst area, i wont try it

[jasonthebombero]

man where should i start..
hydrolocking: tell all the grand national, dsm, mustang, rx7 guys that placing a small nozzle will hydrolock your motor.. even if there was to be a slow drip, your intake temps can get as high as 190F.. that would be more than enough to vaporize water..
injecting onto compressor:
this is a horrible idea! not only does the water take up space that air could be getting compressed, but have you even begun to think the damage a drop of water would cause your turbine blade as it spins at 120,000 rpms?
placing pre intercooler:
i don't remember the exact reason, but this have catastrophic results due to the pressure drop or something along those lines.. also this has only shown to lower air temps 4-5F while regular water injection can lower from 50-80F..water doesn't do the cleaning.. its the alky that does it.. the water is completely raporized in the intake manifold. and when it vaporizes it absorbs heat.. its soooo cheap and so efficient i can't undersatnd why everyone doesn't do it..

Water vaporizes at 212*F. So at 190*F the water will still be a solid. When water does vaporize it also expands 1700 times its original volume as it absorbes the heat. (Think about how much steam you get when you drop a spoon full of water on a hot stove burner. )This is why it has remained one of the mose effective agents in firefighting.

Unless the temperatures in your intake mainfold are above 212*F the water would not vaporize. This I imagine would couse problems. If it did vaporize after it reaches 212*F then the volume would increse and could over pressurize the cylinders causing detonation. Or even perhaps dilute or displase the fuel causing a misfire and catrostrofic failure under these pressures.
Just thinking out loud. I dont have any experience with turbos. But I consider myself knowledagleable in fire fighting theory.

[flacopower]

Water vaporizes at 212*F. So at 190*F the water will still be a solid.

maybe large amounts of water won't vaporize until 212F.. but when you spray a very very fine mist it will definetly vaporize. and FYI water is no longer a solid after 32F..

and all a kit consists of is:
tank
pump
pressure switch (turns on AUTOMATICALLY at a certain psi)
solenoid (keeps water line primed BUT won't allow water to flow until activated)
and water lines..
not hard at all. if you guys don't want to do it then don't.. its been done since WW2 when the gov't use water injection in fighter planes to be able to run more boost.. if it did cause hydrolocking then it wouldn't be so popular..