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best H22 intake manifold setup

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    best H22 intake manifold setup

    has anyone on here played around with the h22 intake manifold to see what combinations produce what power ranges?

    A. stock
    B. gutted iab plate
    C. double stack iab plate (one gutted)
    D. double stack iab plate (both gutted)
    E. no iab plates
    F. any other combination

    gutted = butterflies and shaft removed, and holes filled
    F UR K
    MRT- http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=1#post2804186

    #2
    with IAB not connected I think your going to loose a lot of bottom end torque on your stop and go daily driving.do fill the holes obviously but i would keep my IAB connected and fill the other one.


    I have mine ported and polished and will be port matching as soon as finish rebuilding my head thats getting some head work done by me.Adding my extra plenum spacer soon, just need to buy extended bolts. If you keep this setup you should invest in a bisi thermal heat shield. Also you should look into maxbore if you haven't replace your t-body if your on a budget.
    Last edited by hondamanf22; 09-30-2011, 11:38 AM.

    Marry Jane

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      #3
      before anyone else say's it Euro R manifold would be awesome if you have the cash.

      Marry Jane

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        #4
        I think No IAB plates would be the best, but you would also have to grind out the 8 ports on both the plenum and the runners. This would be most similar to a Euro R setup I would think.

        But when I tried to do just plenum on runners, my fuel line kept hitting the throttle cable stay and since I didnt have any other fuel lines I didn't want to risk damaging anything.

        What I currently have right now is a gutted IAB with JB welded filled holes on bottom and a regular IAB ontop hooked up properly to the black box.

        That seems to be a "safe" combo because you don't sacrifice the low end by retaining the functional IABs, yet you still gain some up top with the increased plenum volume of the second gutted spacer.

        Oh and if you're wondering and want to save money on bolts, you can use the AC compressor bolts off a CB7 and the AC compressor bolts off a 91 (3rd gen prelude) for your extended bolts. I just grabbed them from the JY and stuck em in my toolbox. I forget which ones are the longer ones but either way grab 3 of each and you'll be good

        member's ride thread
        93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
        99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
        91 Accord SE 176k
        97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

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          #5
          Mine:


          Black Housing DIY 1991 Wagon Morimoto Retrofit
          JDM One-Piece Headlight Lens Repair

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            #6
            im looking for low end torque..
            F UR K
            MRT- http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=1#post2804186

            Comment


              #7
              Before I went Euro R, this is my setup:

              -Skunk2 68mm TB
              -Rosko TB Thermal Heat Insulator gasket
              -69mm inlet ported stock IM(Rosko Ported it)
              -Blacktrax IAB delete spacer(Single stack; No butterflies)

              Definitely feel the increase in power over stock setup when I had it hooked up by vacuum. VTEC crossover is definitely more noticeable.

              Originally posted by toycar
              Braking the bank, maybe. Feeling like a boss, likely.

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