sure they can, but it will cost you a pretty penny. read up on other forums about tuning. pgmfi.org is a great place to start reading. also, read the stickies that midnite racer x wrote. the ones on top of the performance tech section
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
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12.5:1 compression
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pretty penny like $100 for base line and $90 bucks an hour to tuneOriginally posted by d112crzysure they can, but it will cost you a pretty penny. read up on other forums about tuning. pgmfi.org is a great place to start reading. also, read the stickies that midnite racer x wrote. the ones on top of the performance tech section
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I was contemplating getting crazy with the JDM F22B DOHC head I had on a F22ax block, it would have been something like this setup and some change
Anyhow, a dyno tuning session will do you no good if you stroll in with your stock P39 ECU (JDM F22B) or stock P14 ECU (H23). Fact is, the stock fuel maps are NOT cut out for the mods you have, that's the bottomline. You need another ECU like a P06, P28, etc. that can be chipped and new fuel maps burned onto it to get you a decent baseline. At this point, you need to fine tune this baseline map to get max reliable output from your motor.
Also, more important than compression is headwork. If you just had a standard headwork done, I would suggest (if your funds allow) to get some portwork done. However, the stock JDM F22B does flow better than a stock F22ax, if you need to be on a budget. At least you got the standard work done to ensure max stock potential for that head.
I would suggest camshafts too and like someone stated, H23 camshafts are interchangeable with the head you have. You can choose to go with Crower Stage 1 thru 3 camshafts or the cheaper route (but still good) Delta Regrind camshafts (www.deltacam.com) and get some done. You either have to send the cams you have in the head or get extras H23 stock cams and have them done. Seems like you have downtime right now anyhow, I'd just send out your JDM F22B cams and get them done as Delta has pretty fast turnaround. If you next-day the cams to them, in 2-3 days they can be done and send them back (you can even ask them to send next-day back, but you will pay for that).
All about planning and research man. No offense, but based on the questions you've had...seems like you got all "big-eyed" like a kid in candy store with your 12.5:1 compression and didn't fully think your project through. So get on it, I'd like to see what this project can do.
Do you also know, you at minimal will have to run premium gasoline 24-7 on your car because of your compression? If you don't have it tuned right, you might have to throw in octane booster or run straight race gas.
Also, did you even calculate how your 12.5:1 pistons will go with your FULL engine build and what your end compression ratio result will be? You may be over 12.5 and make your tuning harder to run on premium gasoline. Have you done the calculations and considered that JUST putting your JDM F22B DOHC head onto a F22ax block will put you from 8.8 CR to 9.2 CR in stock head form??
Just things for you to consider.
Here is the engine calculator I made, use it:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=37834Last edited by HondaFan81; 03-20-2006, 01:13 AM.
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I have better prices than that please PM me back. Also, i agree with hondafan...seems very unplanned. 10.2mm spark plugs???Originally posted by 12.5:1pretty penny like $100 for base line and $90 bucks an hour to tuneKnowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12
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PM me your piston CC's for this project. Knowing that, I can find out your end result compression ratio after installing these pistons on your setup.
Also, if you had your head milled or resurfaced, how much did they remove? PM me this info too.
I'll post back an end result compression ratio value in this thread (if you give me the info). I will also tell you if you need to go with a custom headgasket thickness to achieve your 12.5:1 CR goal, because I have the feeling your actually over it and it would cause for tuning issues and your running race gas or octane booster ALL the time when you fill up (that to me is a pain, what if you run out?).
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ok ive got one better for you ive used your little calculator and others like it and im not a dumb ass i under satnd the prem. 93 oct fuel issue but im not gonna use it in it my end comp. i think came out to like 14.blah:1 and there is a pure station 3 miles down the road from my house that sales 110 octane from a pump yes it was reserched i just wanted to hear some opinions this shit is gonna rip when its done all i need is some tuning help when its done. look this aint my first first rodeo i converted a 15hp gasoline riding mower to run on desiel and it runs goodOriginally posted by HondaFan81I was contemplating getting crazy with the JDM F22B DOHC head I had on a F22ax block, it would have been something like this setup and some change
Anyhow, a dyno tuning session will do you no good if you stroll in with your stock P39 ECU (JDM F22B) or stock P14 ECU (H23). Fact is, the stock fuel maps are NOT cut out for the mods you have, that's the bottomline. You need another ECU like a P06, P28, etc. that can be chipped and new fuel maps burned onto it to get you a decent baseline. At this point, you need to fine tune this baseline map to get max reliable output from your motor.
Also, more important than compression is headwork. If you just had a standard headwork done, I would suggest (if your funds allow) to get some portwork done. However, the stock JDM F22B does flow better than a stock F22ax, if you need to be on a budget. At least you got the standard work done to ensure max stock potential for that head.
I would suggest camshafts too and like someone stated, H23 camshafts are interchangeable with the head you have. You can choose to go with Crower Stage 1 thru 3 camshafts or the cheaper route (but still good) Delta Regrind camshafts (www.deltacam.com) and get some done. You either have to send the cams you have in the head or get extras H23 stock cams and have them done. Seems like you have downtime right now anyhow, I'd just send out your JDM F22B cams and get them done as Delta has pretty fast turnaround. If you next-day the cams to them, in 2-3 days they can be done and send them back (you can even ask them to send next-day back, but you will pay for that).
All about planning and research man. No offense, but based on the questions you've had...seems like you got all "big-eyed" like a kid in candy store with your 12.5:1 compression and didn't fully think your project through. So get on it, I'd like to see what this project can do.
Do you also know, you at minimal will have to run premium gasoline 24-7 on your car because of your compression? If you don't have it tuned right, you might have to throw in octane booster.
Also, did you even calculate how your 12.5:1 pistons will go with your FULL engine build and what your end compression ratio result will be? You may be over 12.5 and make your tuning harder to run on premium gasoline. Have you done the calculations and considered that JUST putting your JDM F22B DOHC head onto a F22ax block will put you from 8.8 CR to 9.2 CR in stock head form??
Just things for you to consider.
Here is the engine calculator I made, use it:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=37834
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yall are acting like im trying to make a d15b fast a throttle bodied one at thatOriginally posted by 12.5:1ok ive got one better for you ive used your little calculator and others like it and im not a dumb ass i under satnd the prem. 93 oct fuel issue but im not gonna use it in it my end comp. i think came out to like 14.blah:1 and there is a pure station 3 miles down the road from my house that sales 110 octane from a pump yes it was reserched i just wanted to hear some opinions this shit is gonna rip when its done all i need is some tuning help when its done. look this aint my first first rodeo i converted a 15hp gasoline riding mower to run on desiel and it runs good
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You totally took things the wrong way. I was throwing things out there to make sure you thought things through. Take it as help, not as an offense.
Also, if you're looking to "rip", you should have considered headwork in my opinion. After all, it's about air in, air out.
Indirectly, you've made this car a "race car" pretty much to run on 110 octane gas in my opinion. You can't exactly take this car anywhere because you don't know where you will find that high octane gas. So this car is already limited, why don't you just totally go all out then and do the headwork and cams?
I'd rather have thoughtful comments causing you to make sure you've thought things through, rather than praise. Just a thought. I was trying to help. So simmer down.
My calculator works, if you know how to use it. Like I said, shoot me your piston CC and your mill/resurface numbers for your head and I can get your CR values.
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word, you're taking it the wrong way. You just need to think out everything a little more. dude, get the most out of the head before you go and for the pistons and whatnot. some serious head work would really help and when you go add the pistons, that would really put you up with an h22.
CrzyTuning now offering port services
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A large portion of the performance when it comes to the head is the valve job... even moreso than the actual porting... a 5 angle or perhaps even a radius valve job will probably ne more benficial than a run of the mill 3 angle...
Did you say you had already gotten a 3 angle VJ? What were the angles if you don't mind my asking...
and IMO to really take advantage of this combo you are going to have to redo the bearings both rods and mains and beef up the valvetrain since you will probably be making power up until 7500 easily with just 272's and that cr... let alone the infamous 280's...
I would just go with Crower stage 3's or even look into getting them to custom grind to your specs which won't cost much if anything more than the stg 3's...RIP Lifsatrip7
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i appolgize man, hey i realy dont want it that limited id like for it to run on 93 how much of a power lose are we talking if i go back with the stock f22a6 head and ecu and have it tuned or could i even have that ecu tuned if not what ecu should i replace it with i want it fast but when i raise the hood for some one i dont want them to realy know whats there id love to go all out but this is my ddOriginally posted by HondaFan81You totally took things the wrong way. I was throwing things out there to make sure you thought things through. Take it as help, not as an offense.
Also, if you're looking to "rip", you should have considered headwork in my opinion. After all, it's about air in, air out.
Indirectly, you've made this car a "race car" pretty much to run on 110 octane gas in my opinion. You can't exactly take this car anywhere because you don't know where you will find that high octane gas. So this car is already limited, why don't you just totally go all out then and do the headwork and cams?
I'd rather have thoughtful comments causing you to make sure you've thought things through, rather than praise. Just a thought. I was trying to help. So simmer down.
My calculator works, if you know how to use it. Like I said, shoot me your piston CC and your mill/resurface numbers for your head and I can get your CR values.
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do all the head work and get the cam reground to sound aggressive specs cam gear then beef up that valve train on the sohc headOriginally posted by 12.5:1i appolgize man, hey i realy dont want it that limited id like for it to run on 93 how much of a power lose are we talking if i go back with the stock f22a6 head and ecu and have it tuned or could i even have that ecu tuned if not what ecu should i replace it with i want it fast but when i raise the hood for some one i dont want them to realy know whats there id love to go all out but this is my dd
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