your input on my recent alignment, please.

[apalileo]

greetings everyone! just wanted to get a little feedback from everyone on my most recent wheel alignment. for reference, it's a '93 dx sedan, eibach sportlines, kyb gr-2's, but no camber kits (i know, i know! i'm saving up). my points of interest are the REAR specs:

front driver has -1.5 deg. camber, 2.5 deg. caster and 0.00 deg. toe

front pass. has -1.8 deg. camber, 2.4 deg. caster and 0.00 deg. toe

total front toe 0.00 deg.
steer ahead 0.00 deg.

rear driver has -0.4 deg. camber and 0.17 deg. toe
the shop said they just missed the acceptable range of toe (0.00-0.16) because they could no longer adjust for it.

rear pass. has -2.0 deg. camber and 0.06 deg. toe
i was told the camber must be addressed, but that it would help the toe on the driver side (this statement didn't quite add up to me).

total rear toe 0.23 deg.

so here's what i'm interested in your feedback in: what could be causing the lack and excess of negative camber in the rear driver and rear passenger sides, respectively? also, will fixing the camber on the passenger side help the toe on the driver side? my first guess to the second question is "no" but i may be wrong. thank you.

[mndude07]

Seems like something is either siezed up or bent. Its hard to say without seeing it in person.

[apalileo]

yeah, i'm in that same line of thinking. i may just head to the yard and pick up some rear arms and see if another alignment gives more favorable results. in the meantime, would shimming the rear passenger side be a good idea?

[mndude07]

yeah, i'm in that same line of thinking. i may just head to the yard and pick up some rear arms and see if another alignment gives more favorable results. in the meantime, would shimming the rear passenger side be a good idea?

Shimming the rear upper arm for camber control is extremely common and works just fine. Just pay attention to how much you shim it out so that the bolts still have enough threads to grab onto, otherwise you need to buy longer bolts.

[apalileo]

Shimming the rear upper arm for camber control is extremely common and works just fine. Just pay attention to how much you shim it out so that the bolts still have enough threads to grab onto, otherwise you need to buy longer bolts.

duly noted. thanks dude!

[19dabeast85]

Changing rear camber WILL change the toe also....just the geometry of the suspension arms. When I lowered my car, I drove on it a couple days to let the springs settle in, parked on level concrete and matched my rear camber with a construction level before taking it in for an alignment....got it pretty close and no re-alignments needed.

[oneoffaccord]

just buy a rear camber kit. it will make everything alot easier in the long run