Front Camber Kit

[jewelproject]

i was being cheap when i bought a set of front camber kit. i have some evil camber thats eating up my front tires.

so the question is, are the anchor bolt type camber kits supposed to not move after bolting it back on the upper control arm? they are supposed to stay in place like the originals, right?

mine move back and forth. i tried to put a spacer in between the camber kit and control arm, but no go. i tried tightening it down as much as it could, no go?

after a test ride, not far before i noticed it was "all bad". i heard my control arm hitting the upper wheel well after hitting little bumps in the road.

should i wise up and invest money towards an spc kit? i bought some ebay looking types. not satisfied.

[drew12000]

Pics of the kit you have.

The hitting of the arm and inner fender may be because your to low.

[Jarrett]

All of these cars lowered beyond 2" or so will bang the control arms up inside the fender well when the camber is restored. The only way around it is to bang that spot in with a hammer.

['93CB7Ex]

Ingalls ftw.

[P5ylance]

For your problems, I will tell you what I've done to solve camber issues and the resulting problems from corrected camber

I purchased Ingalls front anchor bolt camber kits off Summitracing.com, it will run you roughly 126$ for two pairs. Make sure that when you receive them, you check to make sure the bushing can slide freely within the channel. If not, exchange them. If one is okay but the other is not (per kit), ask if you could hold on to the good ones and return the bad ones (the ones that don't slide freely). They are excellent with customer service so they will work with you to get you the products you want.

After you have purchased your new quality camber kits (ingalls or sp, I got ingalls because that's what summit has), they have directions with how to install and torque specs. Install them.

After they have been installed, get your car aligned. If you are going to go for zero, or close to zero camber, you will then run into the the problem of hitting the upper wheel well. Take note of the marks that are made from those incidents. Proceed to next step

Remove your wheels, and look inside your wheel well to see where its hitting.. grab your heat gun to make the metal more malleable, then go at it with your hammer to provide enough clearance for your control arms. Spray with paint to prevent rust. Reinstall wheel. Test drive, and repeat as needed.

You'll also notice, if you have wider wheels, excessive rubbing on your fenders now that your wheels are straighter. You will probably need to roll your fenders now. I used a mallet and some flat plastic pieces to shape my fender (the plastic pieces protect your car's paint from the blow of the hammer. You'll need to heatgun the paint to allow it to flex as well) and fold in the metal lip (you can feel it)

[jewelproject]

thanks for the advise guys! it took some worries off my shoulder.

im going to try the spc kit and upgrade my front kyb gr2 struts for some koni str.t (orange). i believe my kyb's and camber kit is not holding up properly since im lowered 2.5'' in the front.

if that doesnt help, i guess hammering my wheel well it is?