About to do rotor-over-hub conversion, already searched

[seigneur_rayden]

Stupid question! What's the advantage of doing a rotor over hub conversion

[Blk EX Coupe]

Stupid question! What's the advantage of doing a rotor over hub conversion

It is easier to change the rotors for those of us who drive hard and need rotor replacements more often.

[NAiL05]

And you can use prelude calipers =D.

[m-tec93accord]

ok so you can use prelude 2-piston calipers on the cl hubs correct?

also i was wondering if powerslot plus rotor would fit, b/c i would assume to have it all right, you would have to prelude type instead of the accord rotors

here's what i found so far from powerslot's website:
acura CL(doesnt state whether premium or base), rotor size 12.15" which is the same size as, well, ours , but would it still fit....some clarification with this

and the prelude type s rotor are 12.19" ,

[Blk EX Coupe]

93+ prelude vtec cars have single piston calipers, but they use bigger rotors then the accord.

If you want to do rotor over hub with a prelude brake upgrade you need:
2x 2.3CL front hubs
2x accord front wheel bearings
2x prelude vtec calipers with 23T brackets(someone verify the bracket)
2x 3.0CL or 93-96 Prelude vtec rotors
2x brake pads for prelude vtec calipers

[m-tec93accord]

93+ prelude vtec cars have single piston calipers, but they use bigger rotors then the accord.

If you want to do rotor over hub with a prelude brake upgrade you need:
2x 2.3CL front hubs
2x accord front wheel bearings
2x prelude vtec calipers with 23T brackets(someone verify the bracket)
2x 3.0CL or 93-96 Prelude vtec rotors
2x brake pads for prelude vtec calipers

so which one has the 2-piston caliper setup, maybe the vigor or nsx calipers?

[Blk EX Coupe]

NSX calipers would work or legend gs, but read the sticky at the top of this forum regarding legend calipers.

[19dabeast85]

Well, I finally have enough money and have gotten all of the parts I need. It turns out (after a pad slap and rotors turned) that something is really weird inside my braking system. It feels really mushy and then "catches" all of a sudden and the nose dives like crazy. I think only the fronts are grabbing for whatever reason, and the E-brake has no resistance and doesn't work. I think the lines are about to go also because while under there I could squeeze some deflection in the rubber lines with my fingers.

So, I am doing the rotor-over this Saturday at the shop. Here is my parts list and sources for whoever wants to know:

1999 Acura CL 2.3 front hubs: $174.00
www.acuraoemparts.com

Accord front wheel bearings,
lower ball joints, bolts&nuts: $157.00
www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

Stainless brake lines (6): $108.00
www.ptuning.com

1999 CL front rotors,
Accord rear rotors,
Accord Hawk HPS pads: $307.00
www.tirerack.com (brembo blanks)

[NAiL05]

024 44600-SY8-A00 HUB ASSY., FR. 2 1999 CL 113.99, 91.19

So according to the price of the front hub on the acura site its 182.38 as there price then you gotta add whatever shipping is.

[19dabeast85]

024 44600-SY8-A00 HUB ASSY., FR. 2 1999 CL 113.99, 91.19

So according to the price of the front hub on the acura site its 182.38 as there price then you gotta add whatever shipping is.

Wow, their prices went up quickly. I only paid $80.56 x2 for the hubs. So $161.12 + $12.62 S&H = $173.74 total

[19dabeast85]

Just to update: Everything fit great and it works really well. A couple notes:

The stainless line kit from this company shorts you a little on the rear-most rear line, I had to do away with one bracket to make it reach, but all should be good.

The hawk pads don't grab as well as I thought they would. I absolutely can not lock up any of the wheels (I used to be able to). Maybe they require a break-in period, or maybe the brakes are so balanced now that the rear is pulling it's weight and thus the fronts aren't locking up....dunno?

The E-brake doesn't work like it used to (even after adjustment)

[19dabeast85]

duplicate post

[19dabeast85]

duplicate post

[LinX]

I disagree with your statement. My brakes have actually improved. Couple of things you wanna note

-Pads are new so they DO have to be broken in.
-Did you make sure there is no grease on the rotors?
-Are you running a proportioning valve? The rear discs need this part to fully reach their potential since discs need more pressure than drums.
-Did you adjust the e-brake properly?
-Last but not least, did you bleed thoroughly?

[19dabeast85]

I thoroughly cleaned the rotors with brake clean before putting the wheels on.

The brake system is stock ABS so yes, there is a proportioning valve.

I pulled the E-brake up 1 click, then turned the adjustment nut in until the rears were barely scraping (by listening while rotating wheel).

I bled the system all the way around 3 times (8 "bleeds" per wheel each time around), the 3rd time around no air came out for at least 5 "bleeds" per wheel.

Don't get me wrong....my car will stop very fast, but it just doesn't lock them up like it used to. Maybe the Hawks have a moderate initial bite and then increase sharply. This would reduce the sudden "impact" on the tire/road friction surface and allow for greater handling under heavy, sudden braking??....just a thought.