How to get "Hellaflush"

[CB7Nub]

Of course to lower it you lower it properly first but I have some questions.
I want to be going for something like this.



1) How do you space the tire out of the wheel well more? Is it spacers or something?
2) If I get full coilovers, what other items should be replaced if I was going to slam it? Such as upper and lower control arms, bushings, etc.
3) Damper adjustment, I don't understand what it is, how important is it?
4) To adjust the height of the suspension (with F&F coils), how is it done?

I'm looking at F&F Type One's or Two's.

[Dobermann]

1) How do you space the tire out of the wheel well more? Is it spacers or something?

On stock fwd wheels the offset is much higher (+55) meaning the face that the hub touches is 55mm past the center of the wheel. You remember my centerline? They are pretty much in the middle of the wheel, so that pushes the outer edge further out.



I belive that car is running +15 offset. So his wheels are out almost 2" further. You can also achieve this by running high offset wheels with hubcentric spacers. They bolt onto the studs and then put out another set of studs, making the wheel further away. H&R and Fatlace sell these for a ridiculous amount. ($150/axle).



2) If I get full coilovers, what other items should be replaced if I was going to slam it? Such as upper and lower control arms, bushings, etc.

New bushings are always delightful. I didn't, but am going to do them this summer because I should have. If you want less camber, get a camber kit. If you want to match the camber in the rear, I believe EF control arms are the common thing. (I think). I am running no camber kit and I was roughly 7 or 8 degrees in the front. KILLS tires. I had alot of toe and some rub though.

3) Damper adjustment, I don't understand what it is, how important is it?

Dampers are your shocks. You can adjust your rebound on them. On Koni yellows you pop the hood or drop the back seat and can adjust them. You can make it nice and comfy on the road, and then rock hard for the track.



4) To adjust the height of the suspension (with F&F coils), how is it done?

Coilovers work with a threaded body and a collar. The collar is the perch for the spring. Instead of a fixed mount like on a stock shock, you just losen off the set screw and spin the collar to the height you want. Make sure you grease the threads often though, dirt and salt hate your threads.

[CB7Nub]

Woah thanks a lot man for the detailed information with pictures too!

1) What size of spacer should I be looking at? I know there are from 15 to 25mm.
2) Lower offset wheels, won't that put a low of stress on the suspension? If so what parts particularly?
3) What is the lowest offset that is safe for a CB7? (I guess it depends if your setup can handle it, it will be different for everyone?)
4) Can you lock the perch on the coilover so people don't play with it or it accidentally gets loose?
5) Spacer safety, I've heard mixed things. Some people say stay away from them because it's two parts instead of one which makes sense. Others say install them right and you won't have a fright.

I just don't want this happening to me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyMDN...layer_embedded

[Ralphie]

Like dis?

yea son.

[JoshM]

1) What size of spacer should I be looking at? I know there are from 15 to 25mm.

Pick the wheels first, then determine if you want spacers. If you get wheels in the +0 to +25 offset range, you won't want or need spacers. An 8" wheel with +15 offset seems to fit pretty "flushly" with the fender.



2) Lower offset wheels, won't that put a low of stress on the suspension? If so what parts particularly?

Just about every damn piece will be stressed.



3) What is the lowest offset that is safe for a CB7?

You answered it yourself:
(I guess it depends if your setup can handle it, it will be different for everyone?)



4) Can you lock the perch on the coilover so people don't play with it or it accidentally gets loose?

Yes. It's locked in place when you're done adjusting. Someone could adjust it when you're done, but that'd require the wheel to be off.



5) Spacer safety, I've heard mixed things. Some people say stay away from them because it's two parts instead of one which makes sense. Others say install them right and you won't have a fright.

Don't get spacers (IMO). If you MUST, get an adapter.

[Maple50175]

Ballin!

[jdmwannabee]

the first picture isn't flush

the picture that ralphie posted is flush

you don't need to be as low as the green cb to achieve flush fitment....

and camber doesn't kill tires, having your toe out kills tires.

[djkurious]

I had to watch that video that CB7Nub posted like 3 times!!

Classic!

[quaidum]

the first picture isn't flush

the picture that ralphie posted is flush

you don't need to be as low as the green cb to achieve flush fitment....

and camber doesn't kill tires, having your toe out kills tires.

camber does kill tires just not as fast as the toe being out. trust me i know my toe was withing specs and my tires wore out on the inside and the rest of the tire was almost perfect.

telling people on the internet that camber doesn't ruin tires isn't the best advice

[jdmwannabee]

New bushings are always delightful. I didn't, but am going to do them this summer because I should have. If you want less camber, get a camber kit. If you want to match the camber in the rear, I believe EF control arms are the common thing. (I think). I am running no camber kit and I was roughly 7 or 8 degrees in the front. KILLS tires. I had alot of toe and some rub though.

camber does kill tires just not as fast as the toe being out. trust me i know my toe was withing specs and my tires wore out on the inside and the rest of the tire was almost perfect.

telling people on the internet that camber doesn't ruin tires isn't the best advice

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2614449

my point is if you have negative camber, you also have your toe out.
get the toe zero'd and you could keep the camber.
it's the toe that's killing your tires.

[CB7Nub]

Don't get spacers (IMO). If you MUST, get an adapter.

What's an adapter?

Thanks Josh.
Thanks for the article jdmwannabee, I'd take a good study on it.

And yes that video is quiet hilarious if that car ISN'T yours.

[Dobermann]

Regular spacers - Good up to >10mm. Can be used for final adjustment to get it oh so close fitment. Put between the hub and wheel on the same studs.



Hubcentric Spacers / Adapters. For freakin huge spacing. They make 3" spacers for old Yota trucks lol. They are countersunk offset holes and bolted to the regular studs.

[JoshM]

Hubcentric Spacers / Adapters. For freakin huge spacing. They make 3" spacers for old Yota trucks lol. They are countersunk offset holes and bolted to the regular studs.

lol, they're not all that big.

[mndude07]

Do NOT use the regular slip-over spacers unless you have extended studs. I know alot of people say a 5mm or smaller spacer is ok on stock studs, but a friend of mine had I think it was like 4mm spacers on his CB7, and there simply isn't enough thread for the lugs to grab. They stripped out on him on the highway. Luckily we caught it before his wheel flew off....

[Dobermann]

lol, they're not all that big.

Thats what she said!