Auto To Manual Swap in Post 6
Well Im actually making this thread to document the fitment of the JDM F22B DOHC cylinder head onto a F22ax block and anyone who is lucky enough to get one of these heads. It lines up perfectly and since I didnt see any thread on this with pics and explanation, I decidied to do so.
A 5 speed swap was also performed on this car at the completion of the head swap.
By the way this I didnt write this for the novice as I didnt go into too much detail.
Parts used: All OEM Honda
90-93 Accord F22A Headgasket PTO
POA water pump.90-97. Superceded PTO
92-95 Prelude H23aX crank gear and back plate PT2
92-95 Prelude H23A timing and balancer belt PT2
(This can be used but it was a little to loose for me)
92-97 JDM Prelude F22B DOHC Timing belt, PT2
Fit Perfectly but it was my old belt that still had lotrs of life.
90-93 Accord F22a timing belt and balancer tensioners PTO
JDM H22A internal coil distributor with F22a guts. (you can use any H22a F22b dohc or h23a distributor housing or the entire unit if your lucky enough to get an internal coil for 90-91 cars. 92-93, you can aquire any usdm dizzy from the twin cam motors because they are all external as far as F and H go.
P05 ecu mapped for F22B engine by the infamous d112crzy.
Yes this head is from the motor I spun a bearing on last year winter. But the head was MINT. Most mint I probably ever seen a used cylinder head from Japan. I sold the head and was hired to do the swap. Here goes.
*The F22a1 as it sits, about to uncover the health this motor is really in. It ran pretty decent though.
1. Get piston #1 to Top Dead Center
2. Pull crank pulley and timing covers
3. Set it back to top dead center as removing the crank bolt sometimes misaligns or moves the timing assembly
4. If your a novice then definately take not of how things are aligned before removing the belt. Stick a long allen key or screw driver in rear balance shaft to stop it from moving.
5. Slack the belt tensioners by loosening the bolt and slide belts off.
6. Pull any electrical connector, coolant lines, etc attached to the head. Dont forgot the intake manifold bracket at the attached to the engine block.
7. Take the valve cover off and begin to break the headbolts a 1/4 of a turn at a time to even out the pressure and avoid warping, etc.
8. You can take off the rockers if you choose but I didnt. Stripping can occur so its a good idea to have a set of sockets speciffially twirlled for pulling stripped bolts. Forgot the term for them.
9. Pull the head off and cover the block to keep shit out.
*The head wasnt dark gold like I expected, instead it was a lil on the dark side. Gave me an indication of what the block is like.
*Heres the F22a head (left) and the F22b head (right) side by side.
Now besides there being two cams in one and one in the other, you can notice a few differences that need to be swapped in order for this DOHC to work properly with the Cb7 plugs and hoses.
EGR (which was spapped from my last install into my cb7)
Water neck
Fuel rail
Damn that head is clean, I really regret selling it.
I changed the IAB or butterflies gasket as well
I asked the owner if he wanted take out the butterflies but he kept it.
Now in order for theis head to be bolted back on the camshaft and bearing assembly have to be removed, cleaned, and plastic bagged. Here are the camshafts and bare head.
Make sure things are as clean as possible. Plug holes, cover things, baggies are great for the cam bearings etc.
Here is a pic of how the PTO lines up 100% with the F22b DOHC cyilinder head.
Here is a pic of the top deck of the block. Here I discovered some build up inside the water jackets, well only in cylinder #4. It looks like the result of stop leak gone bad of something, it was pretty bad. The only thing I can do is flush the motor constantly after completion.
The water jackets had dark colored antifreeze, like oil, so I drained that by pulling the drain bolt in the back, right next to the oil pressure sensor.
1. Clean and vaccuum out debris from the top of the block, piston etc.
2. Use Acetone and strong alcohol like 91% to clean the top of the deck.
3. Make sure its very clean, leave no oil or dirt, use a scraper if you have to. but dont damage the deck. Do the same to bottom of the cylinder head.
*Note that the gasket is on backwards when the picture was taken. Line up the headgasket with the oil orifice always. Sorry for any confusion*
Headgasket put on to check fitment, I also put gasket maker at the edge of the block towards timing side. Ready to put the head on now, I find when installing the cylinder head that its easier to put the head gasket on the cylinder head because it sticks to the dowels and will be easier to line up.
Now the Head is on.
1. Be sure to oil or lube EVERYTHING. All 10 of the bolts must be divulged in oil, threads and seat and then put in and thread them by hand to avoid any mistakes. Make sure its on the correct way, line up with the oil orifice.
2. Remember they must be tightened in a 3 step torque sequence. 29, 51, then 74 I beleive. Make sure you have a manual when doing this part.
3. Once it is bolted down to spec, you can begin to put cams back in, replace the cam cap while you can. As you can see I kept all the cam bearing bolts in order and all bearings bagged in order to minimize confusion.
4. Cam bearings cap should be torqued to spec as well.
Almost ready now to get back to the timing.
OK, I have to stop here, thats all I got done so far in a total of like 8 hours. I should be finished thsi week coming up. Will continue the post then.
1
Well Im actually making this thread to document the fitment of the JDM F22B DOHC cylinder head onto a F22ax block and anyone who is lucky enough to get one of these heads. It lines up perfectly and since I didnt see any thread on this with pics and explanation, I decidied to do so.
A 5 speed swap was also performed on this car at the completion of the head swap.
By the way this I didnt write this for the novice as I didnt go into too much detail.
Parts used: All OEM Honda
90-93 Accord F22A Headgasket PTO
POA water pump.90-97. Superceded PTO
92-95 Prelude H23aX crank gear and back plate PT2
92-95 Prelude H23A timing and balancer belt PT2
(This can be used but it was a little to loose for me)
92-97 JDM Prelude F22B DOHC Timing belt, PT2
Fit Perfectly but it was my old belt that still had lotrs of life.
90-93 Accord F22a timing belt and balancer tensioners PTO
JDM H22A internal coil distributor with F22a guts. (you can use any H22a F22b dohc or h23a distributor housing or the entire unit if your lucky enough to get an internal coil for 90-91 cars. 92-93, you can aquire any usdm dizzy from the twin cam motors because they are all external as far as F and H go.
P05 ecu mapped for F22B engine by the infamous d112crzy.
Yes this head is from the motor I spun a bearing on last year winter. But the head was MINT. Most mint I probably ever seen a used cylinder head from Japan. I sold the head and was hired to do the swap. Here goes.
*The F22a1 as it sits, about to uncover the health this motor is really in. It ran pretty decent though.
1. Get piston #1 to Top Dead Center
2. Pull crank pulley and timing covers
3. Set it back to top dead center as removing the crank bolt sometimes misaligns or moves the timing assembly
4. If your a novice then definately take not of how things are aligned before removing the belt. Stick a long allen key or screw driver in rear balance shaft to stop it from moving.
5. Slack the belt tensioners by loosening the bolt and slide belts off.
6. Pull any electrical connector, coolant lines, etc attached to the head. Dont forgot the intake manifold bracket at the attached to the engine block.
7. Take the valve cover off and begin to break the headbolts a 1/4 of a turn at a time to even out the pressure and avoid warping, etc.
8. You can take off the rockers if you choose but I didnt. Stripping can occur so its a good idea to have a set of sockets speciffially twirlled for pulling stripped bolts. Forgot the term for them.
9. Pull the head off and cover the block to keep shit out.
*The head wasnt dark gold like I expected, instead it was a lil on the dark side. Gave me an indication of what the block is like.
*Heres the F22a head (left) and the F22b head (right) side by side.
Now besides there being two cams in one and one in the other, you can notice a few differences that need to be swapped in order for this DOHC to work properly with the Cb7 plugs and hoses.
EGR (which was spapped from my last install into my cb7)
Water neck
Fuel rail
Damn that head is clean, I really regret selling it.
I changed the IAB or butterflies gasket as well
I asked the owner if he wanted take out the butterflies but he kept it.
Now in order for theis head to be bolted back on the camshaft and bearing assembly have to be removed, cleaned, and plastic bagged. Here are the camshafts and bare head.
Make sure things are as clean as possible. Plug holes, cover things, baggies are great for the cam bearings etc.
Here is a pic of how the PTO lines up 100% with the F22b DOHC cyilinder head.
Here is a pic of the top deck of the block. Here I discovered some build up inside the water jackets, well only in cylinder #4. It looks like the result of stop leak gone bad of something, it was pretty bad. The only thing I can do is flush the motor constantly after completion.
The water jackets had dark colored antifreeze, like oil, so I drained that by pulling the drain bolt in the back, right next to the oil pressure sensor.
1. Clean and vaccuum out debris from the top of the block, piston etc.
2. Use Acetone and strong alcohol like 91% to clean the top of the deck.
3. Make sure its very clean, leave no oil or dirt, use a scraper if you have to. but dont damage the deck. Do the same to bottom of the cylinder head.
*Note that the gasket is on backwards when the picture was taken. Line up the headgasket with the oil orifice always. Sorry for any confusion*
Headgasket put on to check fitment, I also put gasket maker at the edge of the block towards timing side. Ready to put the head on now, I find when installing the cylinder head that its easier to put the head gasket on the cylinder head because it sticks to the dowels and will be easier to line up.
Now the Head is on.
1. Be sure to oil or lube EVERYTHING. All 10 of the bolts must be divulged in oil, threads and seat and then put in and thread them by hand to avoid any mistakes. Make sure its on the correct way, line up with the oil orifice.
2. Remember they must be tightened in a 3 step torque sequence. 29, 51, then 74 I beleive. Make sure you have a manual when doing this part.
3. Once it is bolted down to spec, you can begin to put cams back in, replace the cam cap while you can. As you can see I kept all the cam bearing bolts in order and all bearings bagged in order to minimize confusion.
4. Cam bearings cap should be torqued to spec as well.
Almost ready now to get back to the timing.
OK, I have to stop here, thats all I got done so far in a total of like 8 hours. I should be finished thsi week coming up. Will continue the post then.
1
makes me want to give it a try
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