swap, what else?

[SOHC-FTW]

Bisi can claim all he wants, but no cam will show a 30whp bump on a stock F22 be it a A or B. I've mildly built a b1 (p&p head, bisi intake mani gasket, p&p intake mani and throttle body, delta 272, and full bolt on's.) 150whp is not going to happen with just a cam.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ighlight=f22b1

It's a good engine with ok power for a 4cyl, but better choice's around the same price area can be had with greater potential for tq and hp. The work it takes to put a b1 in i would opp for the F23 knowing what i know now.

[Joey GT-R]

Didn't plan on pulling it apart. Plus the level 2 cam is making about 150whp in the f22b1. But yes max torque and not exceeding 155whp. If I can I want to lose more weight too

Why are you trying to lose more weight? That would decrease your hp/weight ratio, putting you in a tougher segment of cars based on your previous claims. You want no more than 155whp, so I'm guessing you're trying to stay with the "slow cars". But if you lose weight that would put you with cars with more power than 155whp, because they have an equal hp/weight ratio. Meaning they likely have better suspension, tires, aerodynamics, etc.

[MortsAccord]

Why are you trying to lose more weight? That would decrease your hp/weight ratio, putting you in a tougher segment of cars based on your previous claims. You want no more than 155whp, so I'm guessing you're trying to stay with the "slow cars". But if you lose weight that would put you with cars with more power than 155whp, because they have an equal hp/weight ratio. Meaning they likely have better suspension, tires, aerodynamics, etc.

depends on how close to that breaking point he is.

[h22sparkle]

Just get an H22 swap and be done with it do it right the first time and dont look back.

[wagon.spec]

If the car gets lighter I don't have to make as much power. And thank you toycar. I have a guy I know making 150whp with an f22b with just a cam and a tune. And the h is a stupid engine for what I'm doing. Hate the b1 all you want.

[deevergote]

Sparkle doesn't understand the limitations of a race class.

The B1 will provide you with the power you want. It's a bad choice for extreme modification, but for 155whp or so, it's every bit as good as any other option.

I do agree that the F23 would provide more torque, but then again, it's not THAT much more. Honda guys make a hell of a big deal over .1L!


Do basic maintenance first. Timing belt, water pump, all seals (rear main and balance shaft seals especially.)
Bisimoto has a camshaft for you, even though Bisi himself is the one who started the B1 bashing mentality on this site.
There aren't any great headers on the market for the B1, but you could always pick up a basic cheapo like Megan Racing and weld on a new, larger collector.
I wouldn't waste your money on Hondata, though. There are cheaper options that will be just as effective. Unless you have a tuner that only works with Hondata, that is.

[wagon.spec]

Thank you deev. I really appreciate it. I plan on going hondata because the only guy I trust with my computer in the area tunes with hondata. Thank you for the information that I asked for. I just want a decent reliable race motor. on a side note The f22a has done me well so far.221k with a lot of hard driving and nitrous the last 20k. But I like the torque curve of both f22s and I really appreciate the solid advice fomented everyone. About how much am I looking to invest in insurance for all the maintenance stuff

[Joey GT-R]

Are you doing the work yourself? You're looking at about $450 in parts if you need a shop to do it you could be spending a thousand.

[wagon.spec]

I do everything myself. I don't trust mechanics. I've got the car driving around. It's pretty quick, I beat a Pontiac GTP with the 3.8 supercharged. Just saving for race tires and the cam now. Will let you know wheel numbers when I get them. Thank you for all the help.