Jdm H22 Minor Problems

[Bryans 90accord]

Why are some located in the downpipe below the oil filter?
A:because that is how Honda designed it. I believe in my opinion it was more optimal at that time to place it there so that the car can get a more accurate reading to adjust according to the car.

wouldn't the ecu know the o2 is in the downpipe?
A: yes it would that is why it is giving you a code because it is not getting a correct reading

Your car is running fine so not problem yet:\]
A: this is a bad outlook unless you change things the right way and place certain sensors and parts in the right spot. If your not careful this could lead to catastrophic engine damage.

Car pulls hard:
A: please do not beat your motor into the ground racing on it with things not in place or with a check engine light does damage overtime which will lead to shortening the lifespan of the motor before its time.

i dont understand your second answer, if i have a ecu reading for o2 in the downpipe, (where i had the o2 sensor)... i still got a code with new sensor and correct voltage and ohms going to the sensor..

i am tryin to fix the problems, but i tried everything, im using a meter everyday testing for voltages, ohm, and continutiy on all sensors and wires (found some minor problems but fixed them and werent concerning the o2 sensor).

im not racing the motor hard, ill give it a pull once a day, to see how it is, other then that im just cruising tryin to get see my MPG..
i wouldnt push it if it wasnt running correctly. if it does damage ill rebuild it, but ill think ill be fine, still running the sesnor like the picture too.

thanks for your comments and responses i appriecte it, throws me some ideas.

[Bryans 90accord]

Thats header you only have one header on this car. Headers meaning plural you would have two lets get that out the way before there is any confusion.

It looks like you will have to instal an o2 sensor bung for the header if not you will have to get one that already has the bung in place for it. Not to worry the aftermarket ones are cheap. So unless you still want that code to keep popping up then please change it.

Didnt see this post...

im going to drill and tap a hole in the headers, any specific place? the headers i want cost 450$ will bills and shit i wont be buying those till a month or two from now.

[h22sparkle]

Didnt see this post...

im going to drill and tap a hole in the headers, any specific place? the headers i want cost 450$ will bills and shit i wont be buying those till a month or two from now.

You can do this where the gap between the firewall and the back of the motor meets there should be a nice space there before the hanger under the car the first one near the motor just before it. If your not sure check underneath an accord and check where the o2 sensor orginially is placed and take it from there. I believe that should give you a fair idea of where to place the o2 sensor.

[PhatAccord]

tps setting/testing;
http://www.bloxracing.com/data-sheets/TPSinstall.pdf

[Bryans 90accord]

You can do this where the gap between the firewall and the back of the motor meets there should be a nice space there before the hanger under the car the first one near the motor just before it. If your not sure check underneath an accord and check where the o2 sensor orginially is placed and take it from there. I believe that should give you a fair idea of where to place the o2 sensor.

there is already a hole there, i mentioned a few times, right before the flex pipe, i got code 41 heater o2, so i put a plug in that location just so i can move the o2 sensor to the headers as you see in the pic, i made that jig so it could reach a higher temperature because that is what the code is telling me. but thanks

[92accordcb7ex]

to help alittle bit as to the location of the o2 sensor on some compared to others is in the dx,lx (f22a1) models they were located on the exhaust header, where as the ex models (f22a6) had it on the downpipe. main reason for is is the f22a1 header is 4-1 and the f22a6 header is 4-2-1, which happens to be like most aftermarket header setups. and if you dont know already most hondas are very very picky with there o2 sensor's and if you use something other then a oem honda sensor they are likely to fail very quickly, and that spot on the exhaust is in no way not hot enough to justify moving it to the current place you have yours, because if that was the case then honda would have never put the o2's in that location. id say pick up a oem honda o2 sensor if and when possible and see if that clears the code.

[Bryans 90accord]

to help alittle bit as to the location of the o2 sensor on some compared to others is in the dx,lx (f22a1) models they were located on the exhaust header, where as the ex models (f22a6) had it on the downpipe. main reason for is is the f22a1 header is 4-1 and the f22a6 header is 4-2-1, which happens to be like most aftermarket header setups. and if you dont know already most hondas are very very picky with there o2 sensor's and if you use something other then a oem honda sensor they are likely to fail very quickly, and that spot on the exhaust is in no way not hot enough to justify moving it to the current place you have yours, because if that was the case then honda would have never put the o2's in that location. id say pick up a oem honda o2 sensor if and when possible and see if that clears the code.

i get what your saying and everything and i like ur input on this, but the o2 sensor worked fine with the f22 engine, i did the h22 swap and code 41 heater... i had the other o2 code before and swapped the o2 sensor and that cleared it, but this is saying heater.. like is that shit not getting hot enough? and the code comes on right away, i start the car and boom its on... i mean how hot can a car get in 1 sec.. think about the winter...

[1990exr]

I think there is an actual heater in the o2 sensor that alows it to work before the engine reaches it's operating temp and this is what it is refering too, someone correct me if I'm wrong

[dj_ender]

i get what your saying and everything and i like ur input on this, but the o2 sensor worked fine with the f22 engine, i did the h22 swap and code 41 heater... i had the other o2 code before and swapped the o2 sensor and that cleared it, but this is saying heater.. like is that shit not getting hot enough? and the code comes on right away, i start the car and boom its on... i mean how hot can a car get in 1 sec.. think about the winter...

Did you use the F or H harness for the swap?

[Bryans 90accord]

Did you use the F or H harness for the swap?

ill try to explain this as best as possible....


i did an auto to 5spd conversion, when i did that i used an automatic engine harness, left the automatic wires un hooked.... car ran perfect, no lights of what not, just wanted to upgrade engine.


doing the h22 i had a spare MANUEL engine harness, for a 90 f22a1 engine..
i extended the temp sensors, thats about it..
dizzy wires were long enough and everything else..


what i didnt realize is that the auto and manuel harness have differnent plugs at the end that plug into the the cars main harness,,, what i did was i cut the old automatic engine harness plug off the other motor,, i DIDNT cut the o2 wires, i just undid it so i can have an uncut o2...

after splicing everyother wire besides the o2, i checked all connections, with continuity and checking for voltage and ohms in which the helmes manuel says to do so, everything checked out A ok. even the o2 sensor wires...


im also running a jdm p13 manuel ecu.. the only codes im gettin is o2 heater 41 and also vtec solinoid, but my vtec works fine..

i bought a new NTK sensor and tested it and the wires and its ok...

and im using 93 octane and sometimes 89 to mix it up... as in jdm motors run high octane fuel.


MODS on my h22 consist of
AEM short ram with new aem filter
No coolant lines going to my intake mani.
cleaned out intake mani, and used a bisimoto intake manifold heat gasket.
deleted and gutted butteflys

NGK plugs and wires.

new oem timing belts and water pump, KS tensioner.

Stage 2 clutch with 11lb flywheel.
stock jdm headers and downpipe, with test pipe 2 1/2 cat back to stock muffler (cops get me for other muffler)

valves have been adjusted to spec

aint much but its a start, headers coming later, and more after that..

[dj_ender]

ill try to explain this as best as possible....


i did an auto to 5spd conversion, when i did that i used an automatic engine harness, left the automatic wires un hooked.... car ran perfect, no lights of what not, just wanted to upgrade engine.


doing the h22 i had a spare MANUEL engine harness, for a 90 f22a1 engine..
i extended the temp sensors, thats about it..
dizzy wires were long enough and everything else..


what i didnt realize is that the auto and manuel harness have differnent plugs at the end that plug into the the cars main harness,,, what i did was i cut the old automatic engine harness plug off the other motor,, i DIDNT cut the o2 wires, i just undid it so i can have an uncut o2...

after splicing everyother wire besides the o2, i checked all connections, with continuity and checking for voltage and ohms in which the helmes manuel says to do so, everything checked out A ok. even the o2 sensor wires...


im also running a jdm p13 manuel ecu.. the only codes im gettin is o2 heater 41 and also vtec solinoid, but my vtec works fine..

i bought a new NTK sensor and tested it and the wires and its ok...

and im using 93 octane and sometimes 89 to mix it up... as in jdm motors run high octane fuel.


MODS on my h22 consist of
AEM short ram with new aem filter
No coolant lines going to my intake mani.
cleaned out intake mani, and used a bisimoto intake manifold heat gasket.
deleted and gutted butteflys

NGK plugs and wires.

new oem timing belts and water pump, KS tensioner.

Stage 2 clutch with 11lb flywheel.
stock jdm headers and downpipe, with test pipe 2 1/2 cat back to stock muffler (cops get me for other muffler)

valves have been adjusted to spec

aint much but its a start, headers coming later, and more after that..

I would suggest getting a new(used) f harness, and starting there. I have noticed that there are a lot of wires tied into other wires, and you usually don't know it. Given the fact that you have cut and spliced 2 different harnesses for 2 different trannys, I would say there's a good chance that the problem lies within the harness you made.

[Bryans 90accord]

I would suggest getting a new(used) f harness, and starting there. I have noticed that there are a lot of wires tied into other wires, and you usually don't know it. Given the fact that you have cut and spliced 2 different harnesses for 2 different trannys, I would say there's a good chance that the problem lies within the harness you made.

thats what i figured, i checked all wires, seems fine for running conditions , besides CEL maybe you cant use a manuel engine harness on an automatic harnessed car. the only thing i didnt cut was the 02 sensor wires, besides the green and white wire which is ground and i tied it back to the other wires, i cut every other wire, but maybe another sensor is looking for a signal or something, idk but thanks for your input and ill try the wire harness swap once i found one... i didnt know the plugs were different untill i dropped the motor in, taken its my only car i couldnt wait around to get another harness.