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Without the proper ECU, the motor won't run right. P72 is the Integra GSR ECU.
Seeing as the H23 VTEC was made for an automatic AWD Accord, I don't think there would be an ECU that would work 100% correctly. The P13 (H22 ECU) would probably be close enough. I would think that the H23 redline would be different, though. Maybe not, but I wouldn't assume that the P13 will run this engine as it shoud be run.
Another thing... be VERY careful buying a motor on ebay. Some people have had no problems... other people have gone through hell, or gotten busted engines. cp[mike] got his first H22 from ebay, and it turned out to be fine... however, it took like 6 months for it to arrive! He had pretty much given up on it, I believe... next thing you know, there's an H22 on his doorstep (with a bonus LSD transmission!)
Finally... if you convert to manual and go turbo, it would probably be cheaper if you shop carefully... However, that's a lot of modification for a daily driver. I personally wouldn't turbo my only car. It just adds more things to go wrong.
yeah i could see where your going with this...Ive ebay'd everything i bought for my car, and all has been well..Im thinking turbo std. F22 as well. All that work for pretty much a H22 auto. However, a turbo'ed 2.3 Vtak would be crazy....
yeah i could see where your going with this...Ive ebay'd everything i bought for my car, and all has been well..Im thinking turbo std. F22 as well. All that work for pretty much a H22 auto. However, a turbo'ed 2.3 Vtak would be crazy....
Thats what I am building. And putting into an EK hatch.
2.3 vs 2.2... not a HUGE difference. Boosting your F22 will be a good deal cheaper, honestly. And the F22 head flows VERY well...
Turbo is still fairly touchy though. It CAN be reliable, but boosting a Honda engine that was never intended for turbo introduces a whole new set of potential issues. If that's the route you decide to go with, be careful, and plan for the worst.
A normal H22 swap would be good... but you'd have to settle for 175whp or so. To get more than 200whp from an H22 takes a good deal of money.
__________________________________________ FS: Lokuputha's Stuff "It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow."-The Smartest Man In The World
i know a guy around here that did a H23 bottom end and a h22 head it didnt last long it had the same problem as a ls/vtec wasnt getting enough oil
93 accord: F22A swap,T3/T4 turbo, tail wastegate, front mount 27x13x3, hks turbo timer, turbo xs boost controller, msd igintion, 3in downpipe, crane cam 11mm plug wires, denso plugs, no ac or ps,wire tuck, cutted insides, one seat, auto meter boost gauge,oil pressure, a/f,and 5 in tach,act clutch and flywheel.
93 prelude: jdm headlights,OEM carbon fiber hood, tein lowering springs, work racing rims with kumho tires, msd wires and denso plugs,type r shift boot
So, essentially, an H23A VTEC swap can be done. Just a lil more wiring(OBD2) and probably the p13 ECU....correct?
I like the idea of the H22, but the f20b and the h23aVTEC are so enticing. I obviously wont be doing it myself, and i dont wanna burden any of my friends with it, so a shop will be doing any swapping for me. Anyway, im just trying to figure which would be the best bang for my buck. The H22 is the quickest, easiest swap. I imagine the f20b is next, and then the h23. If i showed up at a shop and gave them the list of all 3 engines, im wandering which one theyd be more likely to do. Granted, they'll do whichever i ask, but i really just want some "chiming" in on what everybody else thinks.
I basically want, overall, best hp and torque. its just a matter of finding out which engine will do that.
F20B has a narrower powerband, H23 VTEC is more expensive. For the price of an H23 VTEC from a reliable source (that's important!), you could make much more power with the H22.
If you want to be different, go for it... But the H22 is still the best swap out of the 3.
so what with the h23, essentially, out of the picture, how does the f20 compare next to the H22? I know the powerband is smaller, but is it cheaper, if not as cheap to tune as the H
The H22 has a more usable powerband. However, the 8200 RPM redline of the manual F20B is VERY tempting! I considered getting one of those while I repaired my H22.
HMO has the F20B for $100 more than the H22. Since the F20B is different for auto and manual, it's all the more reason to get it from a reliable source!
I would be a big fan of the H23A VTEC but if you ever run into engine problems and have to rebuild you're looking at another engine pretty much. Most of the rotating assembly is one-off. That crank, many think to be the same thing that came in an H23A1 just because of the 95mm stroke. It's different because this one shares the 55mm mains as the other H engines of that time. Also, finding FRM-friendly pistons at that compression height and volume is impossible unless you bought from Honda of Japan. Maybe a minuscule thing to think about but something nonetheless. All in all, it still has my vote.
My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
I would be a big fan of the H23A VTEC but if you ever run into engine problems and have to rebuild you're looking at another engine pretty much. Most of the rotating assembly is one-off. That crank, many think to be the same thing that came in an H23A1 just because of the 95mm stroke. It's different because this one shares the 55mm mains as the other H engines of that time. Also, finding FRM-friendly pistons at that compression height and volume is impossible unless you bought from Honda of Japan. Maybe a minuscule thing to think about but something nonetheless. All in all, it still has my vote.
just like hte F20B it nearly impossible to find parts for it all ive been able to find are the same parts that the h22 uses lol other then that im basically screw if i break somthing till i go to japan and try and find somthing lol
The H22 has a more usable powerband. However, the 8200 RPM redline of the manual F20B is VERY tempting! I considered getting one of those while I repaired my H22.
HMO has the F20B for $100 more than the H22. Since the F20B is different for auto and manual, it's all the more reason to get it from a reliable source!
I honestly don't think the blocks are different. The ECU's are totally different for the F20B auto and manual.
Also on other Accord and Prelude forums, those who have been dyno tuning them have been yielding similar numbers.
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