diy traction BAR????

[Dirty Harry]

The cha ching is back in service. Wheres the fund deal in the sig.

I had it up to 30 bucks or something once, then I dumped it cause I got tired of heap after heap of bullshit. It never stops and never will. Every so often something strikes me as completely stupid enough to actually be worth my time to piss all over it. Starting again with a new fuckin' jar!!!

[PR CB7]

is like hand aligning camber
u'll never get it right

that why the is an alingment machine
plus the stock radius rod is strong enough belive me
but u could never understand that
u'll see shit and u will buy shit
create bro, and improvise
if not shut the fuck up

[djphonics]

Whoa why is everyone saying you can't adjust caster with a traction bar?? Most bars (take full race for example) have threaded heim joints on both ends. You can adjust these in or out, changing the length of the radius rods, thus adjusting caster. This is one benefit of a traction bar.

The other benefit is that it replaces the stock (rubber) radius rod bushings with a heim joint (rod end). This reduces most of the forward to back movement of the radius rod, which is a primary cause of wheel hop.

If you are going to make a traction bar you need to keep this stuff in mind.

1) The stock front crossmember is NOT just a place to support the radius rods. It is an integral part of the structer of the whole chassis of the car! This is why the traction bars that look like just a square tube that just slap onto tow hook bolts etc.. are kinda shitty in my opionion. You will probably be losing traction rigity (and potentially have a safety hazard) with a bar like that. You want your bar to mount to all crossmember bolt points and should ideally be triangulated, like what full race does (www.full-race.com).

2) The suspension geometry is very sensitive, so you need to make sure everything lines up in the same plane as the stock radius rod. If not, your suspension will BIND and this is very bad. This means your construction techniques need to be very good and you need a good jig when welding.

3) On a lot of independent suspension Honda's, the radius rod is the only thing holding the wheels front-to-back position. If you have a crappy rod end or something break on your Ebay (or crappy home made) traction bar, your wheel could slam back into the wheel well. This will cause MAJOR damage at high speeds and will pretty much total your car and is potentially dangerous.


I hope this helps you out. Please keep in mind, I have a degree in, and work as a Mechanical Engineer so I kinda know what i'm talkin about.

[NAiL05]

I think they are talking about using the stock bars. Not really the strongest things in the world.

[PR CB7]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
thanks
at least somebody that when reads doesnt say
pshhhhhhhhhhhh, dat shit aint gonna work

[djphonics]

I think they are talking about using the stock bars. Not really the strongest things in the world.

The stock radius rods are actually pretty strong. They are also solid steel vs. the semi-tubular aluminum ones of a lot of the traction bars.

The stock cross-member is a very strong sheet metal part...probably more rigid than a lot of traction bars on the market. It's the bushings that provide most of the flex that causes wheel hop.

You can also buy Poly radius rod bushings. This will stiffen things up a lot in the front-to-back direction, but will add extra bending stress to the radius rods, which is bad.

[PR CB7]

remember djphonics

it wont work cuz its a stuppid idea
thanks for the input and feedback

[djphonics]

fair enough.

[C91BLX7]

remember djphonics

it wont work cuz its a stuppid idea
thanks for the input and feedback

Dude are you like 12? Your acting a like a child and your posts are that of a 12 year old.

[fatboy1185]

. This is like that dumbass idea from way back when about making replacement doors entirely out of fiberglass.

you do know that they make fiberglass doors dont you?? a guy on honda-tech had some made for his race hatch, total weight with lexon window was around 17lbs for the full door. please explain how that is a stupid idea to me please?

[d112crzy]

Because people looking into fiber glass doors are ricers, plain and simple.

if you really want to do some weight savings, make a fiber glass shell and ONLY use it for track.

You might as well not have doors at all.

[fatboy1185]

lol fiber glass doors are for ricers?? i said it was for his race hatch, not everyone is gonna build a tube frame and put a shell over it jose, so fiberglass parts are a good alternative.

[NAiL05]

Because people looking into fiber glass doors are ricers, plain and simple.

if you really want to do some weight savings, make a fiber glass shell and ONLY use it for track.

You might as well not have doors at all.

Exactly. The guy that wanted fiberglass doors wanted it for a daily. Might as well drive with no door.

[The G-Man]

The stock radius rods are actually pretty strong. They are also solid steel vs. the semi-tubular aluminum ones of a lot of the traction bars.

The stock cross-member is a very strong sheet metal part...probably more rigid than a lot of traction bars on the market. It's the bushings that provide most of the flex that causes wheel hop.

You can also buy Poly radius rod bushings. This will stiffen things up a lot in the front-to-back direction, but will add extra bending stress to the radius rods, which is bad.

How is this not strong as shit?

[C91BLX7]

How is this not strong as shit?

Fail.