Car stumbling when I give it 3/4-Max throttle...

[owequitit]

yeah I already did new NGK wires (today), plugs (2 weeks ago), rotor (one week ago) a valve adj (2 weeks ago), and rocker arm seals (2 weeks ago)....I'm running outta options, what else could fail? The ignitor and main relay were replaced 2 years ago w/ brand new units. I'm STUMPED. I even cleaned out the IACV and dumped a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in.

Could also be a coil at your mileage. Pull the coil out of the distributor housing and look for any carbon tracking on the plastic shroud around it. If you see that, then that is a good sign it is failing. You can also use your new voltmeter to test the resistance of the primary and secondary windings at room temp and see if they are within spec. They have a tendency to fail rather abruptly.

[H23Accord]

Could also be a coil at your mileage. Pull the coil out of the distributor housing and look for any carbon tracking on the plastic shroud around it. If you see that, then that is a good sign it is failing. You can also use your new voltmeter to test the resistance of the primary and secondary windings at room temp and see if they are within spec. They have a tendency to fail rather abruptly.

You beat me to it. I have had stuff in the dizzy go bad on me before that has caused similar problems.

[Losiracer2]

Could also be a coil at your mileage. Pull the coil out of the distributor housing and look for any carbon tracking on the plastic shroud around it. If you see that, then that is a good sign it is failing. You can also use your new voltmeter to test the resistance of the primary and secondary windings at room temp and see if they are within spec. They have a tendency to fail rather abruptly.

HMMMMMMM.....I havn't checked this yet! I did check the cap, and it didn't have any carbon tracking trails, it just had some oil leaking in it since the mechanic that did it before only replaced the two front bolts of the dizzy and oil seeped in. Along w/ the O-ring being hard and brittle as a rock. So i fixed both of those issues, but is there a DIY on the coil? or you think the Haynes manual covers it well enough?

[owequitit]

HMMMMMMM.....I havn't checked this yet! I did check the cap, and it didn't have any carbon tracking trails, it just had some oil leaking in it since the mechanic that did it before only replaced the two front bolts of the dizzy and oil seeped in. Along w/ the O-ring being hard and brittle as a rock. So i fixed both of those issues, but is there a DIY on the coil? or you think the Haynes manual covers it well enough?

There really isn't a DIY at this point. Measure the windings (if Hayne's has the specs, then it is good enough, if it doesn't let me know, and I will look them up). Then pull it out and look for carbon tracking on the outside of the coil. You might want to pop the little metal cover off, so that you can see the actual windings. If it is "leaking" spark, then it should be fairly obvious as there will be burn/discoloration spots.

[Old School]

I remember your thread about a tune up and it did not run right. Some of the stuff above could be your problem but unless you have run trough a tank or two of gas it sounds like it could be some bad fuel. Don't know but possible.
Anyway when you figure it out post the answer.

[Losiracer2]

I remember your thread about a tune up and it did not run right. Some of the stuff above could be your problem but unless you have run trough a tank or two of gas it sounds like it could be some bad fuel. Don't know but possible.
Anyway when you figure it out post the answer.

yeah that's what I originally thought as well, then I put that fuel injector cleaner...and it seemed to help at least for that tank, but now the problem's back again and with a twist, the upper RPM bogging.....so I'm gonna get a multimeter tomorrow and test out things little by little to try and eliminate the issue.

[Losiracer2]

just a CRAZY thought, but this can't be fuel related right? the Fuel Pump, Fuel level sending unit, or injectors can't be the cause of any of these issues right? hesitation upon start-up and bogging at 4-5K rpms almost at WOT on the highway?

[owequitit]

just a CRAZY thought, but this can't be fuel related right? the Fuel Pump, Fuel level sending unit, or injectors can't be the cause of any of these issues right? hesitation upon start-up and bogging at 4-5K rpms almost at WOT on the highway?

Could be. The pump may be failing, a filter may be clogged or there may be an injector problem.

It is possible.

[evil_demon_01]

What are your new plugs looking like after 2 weeks? After seeing your iridiums in that condition, now your having further problems . . . post up a pic of your new plugs if you can

[Losiracer2]

Could be. The pump may be failing, a filter may be clogged or there may be an injector problem.

It is possible.

I think I may have the answer to the problem!!! Owequitit, AKA Scott, you are BRILLIANT! I bought a multimeter at Autozone down the road which is open 24hrs and started testing my Ignition Coil in the parking lot at 2am lol. I found out a few things....

Since my car is a 93, it has an external coil....cool, no taking apart of the dizzy required. I then checked the primary resistance between terminals A and C, secondary resistance between A and secondary terminal, and finally resistance between terminals B and D since my car is 93.

Between A and C it's supposed to be anywhere from .6 to .8 ohms, it was at .7 ohms CHECK.

Between A and secondary terminal, its supposed to be anywhere from 14.0K to 22.0K ohms, it was at 20.3K ohms, CHECK

Between B and D it's weird though, for a 1992, Haynes require 2.1K-2.3K ohms but for my 1993, Haynes says it needs to be 19.0K-25.0K ohms. Does this part really matter? Well anyways, my B-D terminals wouldn't even register a reading on the Ohmeter, I then proceded to check each individual pin and found out that pin B is bad and doesn't complete the circuit, yet my car still runs somehow?

I then checked to see if Autozone stocked a coil and they did, for $69.99, but I was kinda weary since its a Duralast brand product and I'm not sure if I should put that crap in my ignition system. Well I tested that one as well and for terminals B-D it registered at 2.1K ohms, meaning that's ONLY for a 92? or would it work on my 93 as well? I thought there wasn't a difference between the two years? The other readings were in the proper range, which they should be since it's brand new. But should I see if I can find a used one at the JY? or would OEM Honda be better, but that might cost me $$$

So I think I solved the problem, damn COIL.... I'll update tomorrow

[Old School]

Between B and D it's weird though, for a 1992, Haynes require 2.1K-2.3K ohms but for my 1993, Haynes says it needs to be 19.0K-25.0K ohms. Does this part really matter? Well anyways, my B-D terminals wouldn't even register a reading on the Ohmmeter, I then proceed to check each individual pin and found out that pin B is bad and doesn't complete the circuit, yet my car still runs somehow?

Not sure witch leads B-D are but.........The 19.0K-25.0K ohms - 2.1K-2.3K ohms has to be a TYPO wrong decimal point. they are the same, 92-93. For sure get the J Yard coil. Coils rarely go bad so you have a very very good chance of getting a good one. Anyway from your problem description I seriously drought it has anything to do with the coil. maybe some other wiring issues. but it sounds like fuel to me.
Let us know when you figure it out.

[Losiracer2]

Not sure witch leads B-D are but.........The 19.0K-25.0K ohms - 2.1K-2.3K ohms has to be a TYPO wrong decimal point. they are the same, 92-93. For sure get the J Yard coil. Coils rarely go bad so you have a very very good chance of getting a good one. Anyway from your problem description I seriously drought it has anything to do with the coil. maybe some other wiring issues. but it sounds electrical to me.
Let us know when you figure it out.

they're the two bottom pins on the coil, if you're looking at it w/ the clip connector on top. yeah I found the coil online at Majestic, they want less than Autozone apparently for a new OEM one so that might be an option if i can't find one that suits me at the JY tomorrow. It's figure #3 in the pic, although, I don't know why there are two #3's w/ a $3.40 price difference? http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ORD-SPARK+PLUG

[Losiracer2]

okay I got a used OEM ignition coil from the JY this afternoon, I tested it and everything seems to be in spec, .7 ohms A-B, 19.4K A-Secondary, and 2.17K Ohms for B-D. It was amazing though, I found 4 92-93 Accords w/ the external coil and only ONE had everything working properly. Well two, but the other one was intermittant for the B-D reading, sometimes it would be fine, then sometime it wouldn't register at all. So I got a used coil for $8.63.

One note to make though, does it matter if the one I got says TC-18 and has a green coil cap vs mine which says TC-19 and is all black? looking at the majestic link I posted a few posts up, they have TC-18 or 19 as an option. Does this make a difference?

[Losiracer2]

yeah....its still doing the stumbling upon startup even w/ the new Coil that has been checked and double checked for continuity/resistance. I'm outta ideas......anyone?

[C91BLX7]

Tried reseting the ecu?

just for shits and grins you could unplug the TPS and see if it does it.