Wow, talk about a shitty front brake design! What the hell is this hub connected to rotor crap???? My Vigor is a slip on, the 92 CB7 is a damn integrated piece of shit!
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WTF is up with the front brakes???
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Needs new brake pads and I was going to have the rotors turned...they said they wouldn't be able to turn them because they'd need to be turned while on the car. So...gotta get new ones. And I don't feel like going through all the fucking trouble of taking them apart and putting it back together.
On my Vigor, I was trying to change out the rear rotors and the damn screws were rusted in and couldn't get them out. After an hour with the torch, impact driver, and a mallet I gave up and just put the brake pads on and said fuck it.
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for you vigor...
drill out those screws. they dont do much except hold the rotor on while the wheel is off.
as for your CB...
just get the CL hub, CB bearing, and any ROH disk & do the ROH conversion. you can just take off the 4 bolts behind the CBs knuckle & remove the whole RUH off bearing,hub,disk all together
Originally posted by 92jdm View Postlol hub over rotor ftl
you mean hub under rotor ftl

93 Accord LX Sedan (sold)
01 Civic LX Sedan (sold)-93 Accord EX Wagon (totaled)
93 Accord SE Sedan (sold)-92 Accord EX Sedan (sold)
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So if I drill out the screws, do I need to replace them? I don't know how well they'd stay in place without the screws. Seems like they might be tilted slightly or something....dunno.Originally posted by Night Wolf View Postfor you vigor...
drill out those screws. they dont do much except hold the rotor on while the wheel is off.
as for your CB...
just get the CL hub, CB bearing, and any ROH disk & do the ROH conversion. you can just take off the 4 bolts behind the CBs knuckle & remove the whole RUH off bearing,hub,disk all togetherVIP Status.
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Originally posted by 92vig View PostSo if I drill out the screws, do I need to replace them? I don't know how well they'd stay in place without the screws. Seems like they might be tilted slightly or something....dunno.
unless you magicly drive without the rear wheels, it wont mess anything up. your rim holds it in place.

93 Accord LX Sedan (sold)
01 Civic LX Sedan (sold)-93 Accord EX Wagon (totaled)
93 Accord SE Sedan (sold)-92 Accord EX Sedan (sold)
93 Accord SE Coupe (sold)-97 Accord SiR Wagon (sold)
95 Accord LX Wagon (CURRENT)-05 Impreza WRX Sedan (CURRENT)-02 Ram 1500 (CURRENT)-20 VW Jetta (CURRENT)
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those screws ar there to keep the rotor on while building the carOriginally posted by 92vig View PostSo if I drill out the screws, do I need to replace them? I don't know how well they'd stay in place without the screws. Seems like they might be tilted slightly or something....dunno.
92ex coupe h22
93 240sx with silvia front end (kadet in the works)
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=1#post1894990
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so it's a piece of shit design...Originally posted by C91BLX7 View PostNot really, Just a pain in the fucking ass.
whenever im doing axles or something requiring to remove the lower control arm, i always bring up the option of doing the brakes.
it's still expensive, i charged him 100 bucks in labor and 70 bucks in parts. that was while i had everyhing already apart because i was doing a transmission replacement.
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I am fairly certain Honda did it because it made the brake stiffer and helped to avoid rotor warping issues. The only design I have personally seen that was reasonably light and compact that could go 200K on 1 set of rotors as long as the pads were maintained.
Unless there is some kind of vibration while braking, then the rotors are probably fine.
Also, they said they would need to machine the rotors ON the car, according to you (which is consistent with most brake jobs), so what is the issue?
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LOL..whats with your sig ^?
Its really not that difficult. About a 4/10.Once downpacked it'll take 30 minutes per side. Undo both axle nuts, break loose the tire lugs, jack up the car, remove the tires. once you have the caliper suspended and the bracket off undo the lower control arm, the upper control arm and tierod end.push the axle out, move the knuckle out the way.
Remove the 4 12 point hub bolts from the back of the knuckle. Stick longer bolts in there, hammer em around evenly, and the hub/rotor pops right off. Undo the rotor bolts from the hub, twist the hub, pull out voila rotor separated. What I usually do is clean off the spindle/whatever with a wire wheel, toss some anti sieze on then reinstall.
peep---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=100003
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The guy at the shop I usually take my cars to said that they'd have to be machined on the car and he couldn't do it. Beats the living fuck out of me
There is a slight shimmy when braking, as to why I wanted to machine the rotors instead of replacing them. But if I have to replace the rotors, better be a nice sunny day ahead.VIP Status.
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