Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Help Bleeding Problem!!!!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Help Bleeding Problem!!!!

    So did my clutch today and having problems with bleeding my clutch...Theres no pressure building up. I checked for leaks but found nothing...I've tried numerous of things, like using one of the vaccums off the intake mani to suck out any air bubbles, ran a cycle of evenly fluid thru the system and still have lots of lag!!! Any one have a better idea of bleeding???

    #2
    So anyone can help???? i need to get home LOL but yeah serious.

    Comment


      #3
      if everything looks okay.. then u probably still just need to bleed it.. easier with 2 people.

      what i do(alone) is i use my hand to pump my clutch untill i feel pressure building up. then i lodge my skateboard between my clutch and driver seat, to make sure the pedal is down, then i jump out and turn the clutch nipple thing. Let it bleed.. tighten it back up and repeat about 20 times.. lol, or when u feel the pressure is adequate.
      -:¦:-
      Originally posted by wed3k
      i rep cb7tuner all day, everyday. people say, "fuck y0 honda." and i say, "bitch, please."

      Comment


        #4
        try to open it and just pump it till the fluid comes out.., then after that u need a help one is pumping and one is turning on and of the switch.., lolz.., if still not working its your slave..,

        Comment


          #5
          what exactly did you do when you "did the clutch"?
          did you remove the slave cylinder?
          did you remove or change the clutch master cylinder?

          i would keep bleeding, but you could have a lot of air still in the line, or air got to your clutch master cylinder which isn't good.

          1992 Accord EX MT : CB#2
          DIY OEM amber corners w/reflectors

          Comment


            #6
            Suction gun

            I used to do this complicated two person failed attempt at bleeding.

            Then I bought a suction gun, and a horse syringe. I bleed the system in less then 5 minuets no matter how disconnected and empty it is.

            Go to NAPA and get yourself one, then stop buy some tractor supply or something and get the syringe.

            use the same hose you were using to run the bled fluid from the slave into a container and shove it onto the end of the suction gun (a little plumbing adapter may be required). Place the end of that into a bottle of brake fluid and begin to suck it up into the gun. When your gun is full turn it upside down and push all the air out.

            open the slave cylinder, make sure the clutch is out (close to seat) and begin to push fluid backwards through the system. Use the syringe to empty the master cylinder if it is close to full and continue. After about one gun your system should be bled. (this is if there are no other problems).

            Vacuum bleeding does always work with our vehicles because some of the master cylinders have a floating piston in them so when you apply vacuum it just sucks the cylinder closed and you cannot bleed the system.

            201 Whp H22a with bolt ons, see the progress from stock f22a to now HERE

            Comment


              #7
              I also suggest using the suction gun if there is too much air for normal bleeding to work. I use it in the opposite way though, haha.
              I fill the reservoir, empty the gun, hook it to the bleeder on the slave and pull back hard on the plunger to evacuate the system in the normal direction of flow. Then I still have a helper pump and hold the pedal to do the final bleeding, with the hose from the bleeder going into a clear bottle with brake fluid, so you can see bubbles come out of the hose if they are there. That's cool the suction gun trick works in reverse as well, but don't you push bubbles up into the reservoir that way?

              In any case, trick someone into helping you- tell them all they have to do is sit in the seat and push the pedal. If it takes more than 15 minutes on that short little clutch line, you're not doing something right. I've spent an hour doing this before, now it takes 10mins. You'll get it, also I would check the soft rubber part of the clutch line from the chassis to the tranny for bulges or leaks just to be sure. Good Luck.

              The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
              After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
              Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
              PM me and get it done right!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by The-Gr8-Ox View Post
                what exactly did you do when you "did the clutch"?
                did you remove the slave cylinder?
                did you remove or change the clutch master cylinder?

                i would keep bleeding, but you could have a lot of air still in the line, or air got to your clutch master cylinder which isn't good.

                yes i did remove the slave cylinder and the metal hose. But i think ur right about the air getting to the master cylinder cause its taking me a long time to do this... I'll go right now and buy that Bleeder Gun!!!! Thanx guys

                Comment


                  #9
                  that's what were all here for, we help each other to gain!

                  1992 Accord EX MT : CB#2
                  DIY OEM amber corners w/reflectors

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yep

                    You pump them right into the reservoir and they float tot he top and pop just like a normal bubble would, forever removing it from your system.

                    201 Whp H22a with bolt ons, see the progress from stock f22a to now HERE

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Ghetto_CB7 View Post
                      You pump them right into the reservoir and they float tot he top and pop just like a normal bubble would, forever removing it from your system.
                      I'll try it that way next time....bubbles want to go up anyway, sounds good!

                      The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
                      After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
                      Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
                      PM me and get it done right!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Ghetto_CB7 View Post
                        I used to do this complicated two person failed attempt at bleeding.

                        Then I bought a suction gun, and a horse syringe. I bleed the system in less then 5 minuets no matter how disconnected and empty it is.

                        Go to NAPA and get yourself one, then stop buy some tractor supply or something and get the syringe.

                        use the same hose you were using to run the bled fluid from the slave into a container and shove it onto the end of the suction gun (a little plumbing adapter may be required). Place the end of that into a bottle of brake fluid and begin to suck it up into the gun. When your gun is full turn it upside down and push all the air out.

                        open the slave cylinder, make sure the clutch is out (close to seat) and begin to push fluid backwards through the system. Use the syringe to empty the master cylinder if it is close to full and continue. After about one gun your system should be bled. (this is if there are no other problems).

                        Vacuum bleeding does always work with our vehicles because some of the master cylinders have a floating piston in them so when you apply vacuum it just sucks the cylinder closed and you cannot bleed the system.

                        So yeah, i bought the bleeder gun but still no pressure! I checked the rubber hose for any leaks or stress cracks but nothing... its not leaking any were else.... I'm confused??? The gun is doing its job, it sucks the fluid with a good flow.. i watch the fluid go into the catch can but still cant figure out why still no pressure. But when i did my tranny i unhooked everything but the rubber hose...so when i dropped tranny the only thing holding it from hitting the ground was the rubber hose... u think i might of put stress on the rubber hose??? but like i said no leaks coming from it. What suggestions???

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Just so I know we both know, There will be no pressure felt at the pedal until the bleeder is closed. The master cylinder and slave cylinder have to be good, and you need almost every bit of air out to feel pressure, and the system has to be sealed.

                          Bad news leaving the line on the trans when trying to drop it, should have unbolted the slave cylinder with the line attached, and put it out of the way between the headlight and the shock tower. For future reference, you don't need to open the clutch hydraulic system to take the transmission off, oops. I hope you did not damage the clutch line, but if the metal part isn't crimped and you don't see any leaks, I would not expect it to be blocked.

                          If you are loosening the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder too much, it can pull air into the system thru the threads.

                          Try this: loosen the bleeder, attach the hose, run the hose into a clear bottle of clean brake fluid about half full- make sure the end of the hose is beneath the surface, so it can only pull fluid even if the flow goes backward. Leave the bleeder open, do not close it at all. You watch the end of the hose for bubbles and the reservoir to make sure it doesn't go dry. Have your helper use his hand to slowly raise and lower the pedal it's full range of travel. Just have them keep moving the pedal back and forth. If there is enough fluid in the system, and there should be if you used the suction gun correctly...you should see bubbles come out of the hose on the pedal's downstroke. They may be small, and come out slow since we're not building pressure here, just evacuating the system. Air should not be able to get back in anywhere. If you see bubbles come out, keep the reservoir filled and keep pumping. When the bubbles stop coming out of the bleed hose for about three presses of the pedal, tighten the bleeder. Please tell me you can drive your car now.

                          The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
                          After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
                          Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
                          PM me and get it done right!

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X