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    Bleeding clutch problems

    Sorry to post twice, selected wrong forum first time.

    After swapping from auto to manuell, innstalled the clutch pedal with spring correct, it was time to fill the master cylinder with brakefluid.

    Problem is, after bleeding it, the pedal wouldnt come back to me. I have to take it back from floor by hand.
    This causes the slave cylinder not to move at all.. Slavefork stays unmoved when pressed pedal to floor.

    And there is comming clean fluid from bleeding nipple with no air. Used 1 litre fluid, and no bubles/air.

    I used a petrol/brake-hose from master cylinder, to clutchdamper-assembly. Engine was allready innstalled when swapping tranny, so metalltubing was not an option.
    (h22a).

    Very frustrating. Please help me!
    Accord M0DiFi3D From Norway


    Visit Website: http://www.garaget.org/?car=63883

    #2
    Sounds like there is still air in the system. Are you gravity bleeding it or do you have a helper to pump it?
    If not then get a helper and pump it by hand if you have to.

    Another option is to use a stick or pipe or something to leave the clutch pedal all the way down and the cap off of the clutch master and hope that the trapped air works its way up.

    Comment


      #3
      using someone else to help bleed is key if your not using an air pump. Other than that just pump it slow, not too fast so you make sure you are not allowing air to bypass when pumping too quickly. Yeh its gonna take a while but you gotta do it
      FOR SALE on cb7tuner only for now. Want it in the right hands
      Pm meX
      I do swaps in NYC/LI area: Hit me up for a quote.

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      Comment


        #4
        what they said, clutch bleeding can be a pain. I imagine it would be worse starting with a dry system.
        1990 accord Honda-Challenge, H22 powered
        newer race video,older race videos
        1991 accord parked, parts and back up shell
        1993 accord acquired 6-11-16

        Comment


          #5
          i had problems too but i took a crow bar and pushed the flywheel and little clutch fork towards the cam gear and somehow it worked. i tried constantly before i tried this for like 4 hours and lost almost a whole bottle of brake fluid
          Maple50175 - you're annoying =P
          Brandoncb7 - I don't mean to come across like an ass but I see why you irritate Aaron now.
          JoshM - Crotch rocket = chick magnet.

          Comment


            #6
            If the pedal is not coming back up you might have a leak, if you dont have any metal line running it just for saftey concerns I would run it with a metal line and brake line, I would trust fuel hose for my clucth lines. Just go over all connections and get a buddy to help you bleed the sys.

            86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
            "The Turtle"
            DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug

            Comment


              #7
              Well, i tried to bleed it one more time, and the slave cylinder is moving, just 3 mm or so..

              Clutch pedal is comming only about 2-3 cm back from floor, but still not enough at all.
              Checked for any leaks in connections, hoses, what so ever, and it all seems fine.

              My brother helped me out bleeding it, pumping the pedal by hand.

              After reading all answers, thanks btw, i will pumping the pedal slowly.
              Can someone please tell me excactly how to do it?

              Want to make sure once and for all, im not doing it wrong.
              Accord M0DiFi3D From Norway


              Visit Website: http://www.garaget.org/?car=63883

              Comment


                #8
                i just had this problem... make sure the master cylinder is secured firmly to the fire wall and not moving when the clutch pedal is pressed.make sure all your connections aren't leaking. also, i don't know what size hose you're using might be too wide to build enough pressure.

                Comment


                  #9
                  To bleed the system pump the pedal till there is pressure in the sys. Then hold the pedal down firmly, crack/open bleeder and close. The pedal will go to the floor when the bleeder is opened, do NOT release pedal until after the bleeder is closed. Then repeat this at least 3 or 4 times, prob more in your case. If there is no leaks and your pedal still is not returning then ethier your slave or master cylinder has an internal leak which means they need to be replaced.

                  86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
                  "The Turtle"
                  DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug

                  Comment


                    #10
                    About the hose i use from master cylinder, when pedal pressed to floor, i can feel the hose expanding, like its stealing some presure.

                    Dont know if this will cause that bad presure in system..

                    One thing i want to mention, when mount the master cylinder to firewall, there was a metall-piece there with 4 wires run through the hole to clutch pedal (from frabric). Thought it would be clever not to cut these wires, so i kept them, and also innstalled the cylinder..

                    Should i remove these electric-wires?

                    Anyway, i will try to bleed it again, and if it dont work, i replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder. Just to eliminate possible options.
                    Accord M0DiFi3D From Norway


                    Visit Website: http://www.garaget.org/?car=63883

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If the hose is expanding get some braided brake hose or bend up some steel lines, as for the electrical wires I don't know I would have to look to see where they go to, I would just leave them there for now.

                      86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
                      "The Turtle"
                      DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thought of bending some lines but.. That will be that last option.. Going to junkyard and replacing some parts if the bleeding goes bad.

                        The wires is routed through the hole where the master cylinder is mounted to clutch pedal.. But that shouldnt be any problem, right?
                        Accord M0DiFi3D From Norway


                        Visit Website: http://www.garaget.org/?car=63883

                        Comment


                          #13
                          As long as when you push the pedal down the master cylinder doesn't flex/move yes your fine.

                          86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
                          "The Turtle"
                          DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug

                          Comment


                            #14
                            i had the same problem i bleed the system took me 2 hrs striaght of nonstop pumpingon that pedal and i used a bottle and a half my works good with my stage 3 clutch kit

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Ive done about 6 slave/clutch/master cyl. replacements on Cb's, and countless other vehicles. Patience and the corect rythum is vital. Bleeding from a dry system really takes some time, and is near impossible to do alone.

                              Once you start to feel presure in the pedal, dont think your almost done. You still have a ways to go after that. Getting a little presure is about 50% From being complete. Just be patient.

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