pulling my hair out im bald

[almostJDM]

well its not the injector seals or main relay

[James Matteu]

How many psi are you getting at the Fuel Rail?

[almostJDM]

How many psi are you getting at the Fuel Rail?

enough to make it gush out the bleeder also now the pump doesnt prime which im thinking it just went out

[almostJDM]

grrrrr now i don't have spark and the fuel pump doesnt prime, i get 11.78V at #5 pin at the main relay, when i feel the relay it clicks right when turn the key to the "ON" position but it doesn't click again

[James Matteu]

Well, as you know: one click for the Fuel Pump and a second click for the Fuel Rail (the injectors). So you need to see if it is the inductor or ground.

Gushing doesn't mean anything with a quarter-inch fuel line. You need a fuel gauge, 0-100 psi. Remember, when selecting an instrument you have to get one that has your expected reading in the middle since analog gauges are least accurate at their maximum and minimum readings.

[TheNextEpisode]

I can post troubleshooting/testing procedures from the Honda service manual on any/all of the topics that you need.

I'm dealing with a similar situation, I'm getting CEL 1, resulting in poor driveability.

Good luck.

[almostJDM]

Well, as you know: one click for the Fuel Pump and a second click for the Fuel Rail (the injectors). So you need to see if it is the inductor or ground.

Gushing doesn't mean anything with a quarter-inch fuel line. You need a fuel gauge, 0-100 psi. Remember, when selecting an instrument you have to get one that has your expected reading in the middle since analog gauges are least accurate at their maximum and minimum readings.

the fuel pump doesnt even prime but i know its good i jumpered 5 and 7 on the relay harness also i dont have spark

[almostJDM]

does anyone have a list of all the grounds and what grounds go into the 4-5 clear ground boxes?, i have a stong feeling that its a ground, and when i get home on thursday night im going to strip the front end again and check all of them

[d112crzy]

Thermostat, trans, and battery to chassis are the main ones.

Go back to a stock harness.

[almostJDM]

Thermostat, trans, and battery to chassis are the main ones.

Go back to a stock harness.

mine is the stock one, the only wires i moved were the ones for the lights

[WiKKeDV16]

I think you already tried this.. but have u tried another computer??? i was having this problem with a EG coupe.. similar.. wouldnt start.. would try to start but wouldnt..(that was at the far end of the problem).. before it just wouldnt start on occassion.. and the same scenario.. the fuel pump wouldnt primed.. we checked everything up and down.. and couldnt find shit.. so we finally swapped the ecu out.. and the problem went away...


1yr later.. same problem arised.. we ended up swaping the engine harness wand then swapping the computer.. just to prevent it from happening again.. so far the cars been running great..

not to say this is your problem.. but its worth a shot.. now that u have it trying 2 start.. swap the ecu out

[almostJDM]

not anymore, all it does is crank now, not 100% sure its getting spark but the pump isnt priming, but ill try my bros cd5's ecu tomorrow, also i have a non chipped p28 that throws a code22 because i dont use a VTP sensor and my current ecu throws an auto trans lock code its an auto ecu

[foamypirate]

I know how to fix it. You pull the F20B out, I'll put it in my car, and I'll give you my F22A4-converted-to-A6.

[xkjnboix]

put in another ECU one for a 5speed. i think the one u got is effing with your head. if u need a obd2 h22 ecu i have 2

[d112crzy]

put in another ECU one for a 5speed. i think the one u got is effing with your head. if u need a obd2 h22 ecu i have 2

auto vs 5speed doesn't make a difference. They should both start and run the car.