high idle when cold

[kc8enb07]

just did H22/H23 upper plenum swap. i reused my old F22 Iacv. it was dirty but worked fine.

well now, i start it up and revs up to 2,000rpm. and slowly drops til its operating temperature. then idles at 700rpm.

doesnt rev up and down but still the iacv? also when cleaning i bumped in the dome of the iacv mesh. twitched. could this have damaged it?

[JoshM]

The idle is supposed to be higher when the engine is cold.

[js593]

just did H22/H23 upper plenum swap. i reused my old F22 Iacv. it was dirty but worked fine.

well now, i start it up and revs up to 2,000rpm. and slowly drops til its operating temperature. then idles at 700rpm.

doesnt rev up and down but still the iacv? also when cleaning i bumped in the dome of the iacv mesh. twitched. could this have damaged it?

That shouldnt have done any harm to it. What kind of cleaner did you use?, have you checked for vacume leaks? To me, this sounds like the seal on your FITV may be shot /leaking. as it warms up, it slowly starts to expand, which then creates the seal a bit better.

[accordztech]

the reason why idles are higher when started is to help assist the warmup of the coolant, and the CAT.

you probably never realized it but cleaning what you cleaned probably helped it, my accord is around 2k as well on startup.

your fine.

[js593]

the reason why idles are higher when started is to help assist the warmup of the coolant, and the CAT.

you probably never realized it but cleaning what you cleaned probably helped it, my accord is around 2k as well on startup.

your fine.

Are you sure about that? High idle of a cold engine on any F series (according to chilton and haynes) is 1200-1600 tops. Even on the beginners forum it says that as well.

Fast Idle
Manual: 1200-1600
Auto: 1200-1600

From thread in beginners.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=55330
your running 400 RPM faster then you should.

[kc8enb07]

yeah 2000 is quite high. it use to bounce up to like 1400 then slowly settle over a minute time frame. now it takes til its at full operating temp b4 i get normal idle. so like 4-5mins til its at 700rpm

[kc8enb07]

side note: this is a JDM H22 plenum

[js593]

side note: this is a JDM H22 plenum

As i stated before, make sure your FITV is not leaking externally from the seal mating to the manifold. Same with the IACV

[kc8enb07]

well my FITV isnt on the plenum. on the bottom of the TB. probably be good to change the seals anyway.

probably get the IACV seals and TB gasket too

and i dont have an air boost valve at all.

[kc8enb07]

ok, heres a new one. the iacv has a high pitch hum when i put the car in the on position

[js593]

ok, heres a new one. the iacv has a high pitch hum when i put the car in the on position

are you using the same one that was on your F? (looking up part numbers right now...)
Same part number, should work fine. (SMP AC181) If its making noise, i would assume its shot... Just grab one from a junker.. Its over 200 new :P

[HondaFan81]

Since you swapped an Hseries IM, this means a new FITV into the mix, since they are different than F22ax IM setup. I would make sure that is working properly. I like boiling water and letting this FITV sit in it, then pull it out with tongs and tighten that plastic ring down while hot. Reinstall it and then reset your base idle. In the idle reset process you will find out if your IACV is working properly. Also, since your TB is new to the game here, your idle screw and TPS properly need adjustment.

I suspect you have two issues: FITV not working properly and idle is not set properly via IACV. My guess is your engine stalls when the IACV is disconnected. Also, I would check your TPS is set properly at 0.45V closed and should be 4.5V+ at WOT.


Idle Reset:

1) Start up engine, let it run until coolant temp reaches normal operating temp and your idle RPM is around 700 RPM (or whatever is the normal at this time).

2) Remove the IACV electrical connector and idle RPM should go down, but not stall out. Refer to 2a and 2b, respectively.

2a) If engine DOES NOT stall: Adjust idle screw until 600 RPM is reached, then reinstall IACV connection and idle should hit about 750 RPM.

2b) If engine DOES stall: Turn idle screw CCW 180 deg, reinstall IACV connection and restart motor. Remove IACV connection again, if engine stalls again, repeat this step again. Eventually, your engine will not stall, at this point complete step 2a (adjust to 600 RPM, etc).

3) After idle is adjusted, shut off engine and remove ECU backup 7.5 amp fuse for atleast 10 seconds to reset ECU. Reinsert fuse and your done.

[moetan]

ok, heres a new one. the iacv has a high pitch hum when i put the car in the on position

what do you mean the on position?

[wed3k]

i get a hum from the IACV (and i also have the h23 upper intake swap)

[kc8enb07]

wierd so this is possible normal?

and what i mean by on position. like if u turn the key til just your radio turns on and one more is when u are trying to start the car