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H22a4 Cyl. walls

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    H22a4 Cyl. walls

    Ok I got my hands on a h22a4 that was hydro locked (intake side). I disassembled the WHOLE motor. But the cyls. walls to ME dont look all that bad. No chips or crapes in the cyl. walls to the touch of the finger or that I can see. But can any of you by looking at the pics if the cyl. walls an tell me if they are toast or if they are good enough to use??

    cyl. 4.

    cyl. 3.

    cyl. 2.

    cyl. 1.


    FYI there was some "white-ish" looking "past" that was on top of the pistons in they cylinders...I used some break cleaner to remove but thats all I have done cleaning wise. Also one of the rods where bent to hell almost in a "taco shape" is the best way can describe it. Thanx for your help.

    *edit* I had to beat the shit out of the pistons to get them to come out of the cyl. walls with a rubber end of a hammer.

    -Ryan
    Last edited by flcb7; 08-20-2009, 04:09 PM.
    R.I.P Rex 10/10/97-08/06/09
    There aren’t enough words in this world to say how much you will be missed. love you buddy!

    #2
    R.I.P Rex 10/10/97-08/06/09
    There aren’t enough words in this world to say how much you will be missed. love you buddy!

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      #3
      well I don't know much about internals, but 1 and 2 don't look all that good. And I would asune that if you had to bang out the pistons, they were too tight against the wall and would have cause some sort of abrasion. Maybe something you can't see.

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        #4
        Originally posted by DrLove'sKuDang View Post
        well I don't know much about internals, but 1 and 2 don't look all that good. And I would asune that if you had to bang out the pistons, they were too tight against the wall and would have cause some sort of abrasion. Maybe something you can't see.
        I was hoping I could machine the cyl. walls and go from there....I hope I can
        R.I.P Rex 10/10/97-08/06/09
        There aren’t enough words in this world to say how much you will be missed. love you buddy!

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          #5
          Looks fine to me. Rehone and be on your way. Just be careful who you take your block to, not every shop knows how to hone FRM sleeves.

          CrzyTuning now offering port services

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            #6
            Originally posted by d112crzy View Post
            Looks fine to me. Rehone and be on your way. Just be careful who you take your block to, not every shop knows how to hone FRM sleeves.
            now my next question is would I be better off going for the over sized pistons not for performance just for the long run?? Iv got a buddy who will give some up for around a buck.
            R.I.P Rex 10/10/97-08/06/09
            There aren’t enough words in this world to say how much you will be missed. love you buddy!

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              #7
              OEM, oversize? I'd just use the same ones.

              CrzyTuning now offering port services

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                #8
                Originally posted by d112crzy View Post
                OEM, oversize? I'd just use the same ones.
                OEM type s oversized
                Im gonna try to get the type s cams too as a combo deal...I have to talk to him still
                R.I.P Rex 10/10/97-08/06/09
                There aren’t enough words in this world to say how much you will be missed. love you buddy!

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                  #9
                  I'd def get the type s pistons then. If you can, get the valve springs for the type s. If not, don't ever miss a shift with type s cams.

                  CrzyTuning now offering port services

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by flcb7 View Post
                    OEM type s oversized
                    Im gonna try to get the type s cams too as a combo deal...I have to talk to him still
                    its really important, that the machine shop knows what kind of sleeves are they (same as bmw porsche, celica gt, corolla xrs)

                    after that you should be fine
                    Originally posted by deevergote
                    Just do what PR CB7 said.

                    "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by d112crzy View Post
                      I'd def get the type s pistons then. If you can, get the valve springs for the type s. If not, don't ever miss a shift with type s cams.
                      I dont think he has thos but Im thinking about getting new valves/springs ect. anyways.

                      You know a good place to get oil squirters?? I broke one of the tips off mine when I was taking the bottom end apart.
                      R.I.P Rex 10/10/97-08/06/09
                      There aren’t enough words in this world to say how much you will be missed. love you buddy!

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                        #12
                        I'm not running oil squirters.

                        CrzyTuning now offering port services

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                          #13
                          I would say to be safe you'll need the cylinders machined. FRM cylinders can't just be honed with a crosshatch like a B series... There's a special process and compound used to polish the walls. Also you can only over bore the cylinder to a point before you make the FRM liner too thin. You need pistons and rings that are compatible with FRM walls, which Type S should be fine. Otherwise, you gotta have the entire FRM liner bored out, then have sleeves pressed in, and then honed. Then you can use pretty much any type of piston.


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                            #14
                            i think the next size up is .010 and then that's it.

                            i have a high mileage h22a4 and the tops of the piston probably have about .004 over service limit. making the .010 oversized piston real close.
                            I <3 G60.

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