Failed H23 IM swap..

[Cb_JoeyG]

Hey guys well i decided that for my birthday present to myself i would finally get around to doing my h23 upper plenum swap with double stack..

i tore off my old a1 manifold and i made sure to mark my vacuum lines and my conectors.. the removal went smooth and the installation of the h23/a6 combo wasnt to hard either. but after i was finished i went to start the car and it started up and idle'd around 3k for a while and then once it warmed up and i adjusted the tps a little it kept steady high idle at 1900-2100.

I am pretty sure i got all the vacuum lines hooked up right, my egr is blocked off with a plate but is still bolted on and the connector is plugged in (possible problem #1??) my tps sensor is still left loose because i didnt have my DMM to measure voltage at the sensor to find the correct position, so i just move it a bit till it lowers the idle again..

the major problem with this is that it idles well about 1500rpms and is missing the whole time.. i tried to take it for a drive down my road and it died and refused to stay running after many attempts to get it running again ( trying to start with all the different vaccuum hoses plugged, and moving the tps sensor)

i also noticed when i first start it up it dosent wanna idle at all it misses and sounds like its about to die for about 5-10secs then the check engine light comes on and the idle raises about 1k rpm.


ANNNNYYY help in this problem of mine would be greatly appreciated. im gonna hit the hay tho cuz its 1:15 what a way to start off my birthday lol

[pedroalcala]

hmmmm.....sounds like the TB, what throttle body are you using? it can also help if you take a pic of mine, if you go to my proflie you can see under the threads i made, i have a thread th at it say "h23 intake manifold installed" take a look at my pic and check if all your vacuum lines are correctly connected

[cloudasc]

Pull the code for the check engine light first of all.

Second, how do you have the iacv and fitv coolant lines hooked up? It should be in throttle body, out fitv, in right side of iacv, and out left side of iacv.

Also where is the vacuum line for the air boost valve (if your still using it) connected to? It should be connected to the the intake pipe and not the plenum.

[Cb_JoeyG]

well im not sure exactally if the coolant lines are hooked up right but ill have to check them after work today.. as for the air boost valve. thats the one on the far right side of the a/1 manifold right? i didnt see a place to put that so i just left if off. theres is a spot on top of the throttle body that has a hole to get outside air.. its the one that is paired with the 2 vacuum lines that go from the plenum to the control box above the charcoal canister..

the wierd thing about the check engine light is that when i would have the key in the run position with the car off, there would be a relay or something under the drivers side dash popping and clicking.. and it seemed to be making noise as the check engine light would flash..

this made it seem like what i did wrong was wireing relater but there was no wiring to it really im bummed i cant drive my car on my birfday!!! lol i gotta fix this tonight. no partying for me i guess

[Cb_JoeyG]

any other ideas guys?? whats the sensor or whatever thats on the very top of the tb on the h22a4 manifold? cuz right now its just a open hole in the TB and i have it plugged temperarely

any ideas help

edit: is this the MAP sensor i have plugged on the top of the manifold??
if so do i need to get one cuz i didnt think the a1 manifold even had one?

[cloudasc]

The sensor on the throttle body, its the Throttle Position Sensor I believe. The Map sensor is located in the black box on the firewall, and the other sensor on the right side (driver side) of the plenum is the Intake Air Temp sender if i'm correct.

Here's a picture of the airboost valve, its goes right next to the butterfly solonoid on the iab plate:

(Ignore the way the vacuum line off the airboost is connected, it was hooked up incorrectly when I took the picture)

[cloudasc]

i also noticed when i first start it up it dosent wanna idle at all it misses and sounds like its about to die for about 5-10secs then the check engine light comes on and the idle raises about 1k rpm.

I think that may be caused by a bad IAT sensor, or its not hooked up correctly, as I remember when I was diagnosing my (air boost valve connected incorrectly) idle problem, I tried unplugging different senders to see if maybe one of them were the culprit, and when I unplugged the IAT, my car was not very happy, and sounded just like you described.

When I unplugged the TPS, and revved the engine, the rpms went up and stayed at the point I revved it to, and the rpm didnt drop after I took my foot off the gas.

[wed3k]

you warmed it up and then adjusted the tps? tps needs to be adjusted with the car off.

idle issues, check your iacv.

[Cb_JoeyG]

i havent adjusted the tps yet.. i just moved it around a bit as you would with a distributor, to see if i could get it to idle better..

I kno that the coolant lines are hooked up correctly! and the IACV is plugged in. all of the vacuum lines are hooked up correctly except for one.

so me and a few guys at my work have been talking and we've figured out one of my biggest problems, if not the whole cause of this..

the mechanical MAP vacuum hose that usually goes on the nipple of the a1 TB.

since the h22 TB didnt have this nipple i just accumes the vacuum hose needed fresh air so i connected it directly into my intake tube and plugged the hole where the h22 MAP sensor bolts on.

the first thing ima try after i get off work is to take that MAP hose and put it to a regular vacuum line on the plenum and see if it solves my problem

* Has anyone else thats done this swap used something to block off the h22 MAP sensor hole in the TB??

[Cb_JoeyG]

so i had my dad switch the MAP line from the intake tube to an unused nipple on the plenum..

the car still will just start and immeciatly die.

also the clicking noise ,while the key's in the run position, can still be heard as well as the check engine light flashing and fading on and off

[Cb_JoeyG]

found out the cause for the no start situation as i kno it..

since the night i put the manifold on the car wont start at all.
lack of fuel cuz i noticed the pump wasnt turning on. so i removed the main relay and bridged the fuel pump circuit and tested it at the plug for power. had voltage so the pump has to be bad.

here goes another buck twenty or so? ill keep anyone interested informed.

[cloudasc]

Are you sure its a fuel related issue? An easy way to test, is to use some ether (starting fluid) and spray it into your intake, and try and crank it over, if it starts then dies, its a fuel problem, if it doesn't start, i'd double check for spark.

Also did you use the same injectors / fuel rail, or did you use the ones that (might have) come with the intake manifold? Double check the injector harness before you go spending money on a new fuel pump, hope this message gets to you before you buy that pump and drop your gas tank.

[foamypirate]

Have you checked the make sure the ground on the thermostat is solid?

[Cb_JoeyG]

we did spray the starting fluid and it started for a sec and died. made me even more sure it was the F/P

so i removed the main relay, jumped the connector for the fuel pump and tested for power ad the 3p connector..had power soo bad pump..

and that ground on the thermostat in stripped out.. i gotta fix that. thx for reminding me.

[foamypirate]

we did spray the starting fluid and it started for a sec and died. made me even more sure it was the F/P

so i removed the main relay, jumped the connector for the fuel pump and tested for power ad the 3p connector..had power soo bad pump..

and that ground on the thermostat in stripped out.. i gotta fix that. thx for reminding me.

I bet that's 95% of your problem right there. That is a VERY critical ground.