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    Camber kit options

    Good day everyone. I'm planning on getting some eibach pro-kit springs and bilstein HD shocks/struts. From the research I've done there are a few different front camber kit options:

    1. Adjustable upper balljoint (replace the BJ itself)
    2. Anchor bolt type
    3. TASPro upper arms that include the BJ

    Now I would like to keep this in a reasonable budget, so can anyone give some feedback on all options? As of now, I'm leaning towards the Ingalls adjustable upper balljoint and having my local shop press out the old and install the new.

    Thanks,
    Cris P.

    #2
    IMO, I like the anchor-bolt style, as they are transferable to future upper control arms, when ball-joint replacements are necessary.

    Otherwise, you will have to purchase adjustable ball-joint everytime they go bad.

    Also, the thin metal stamping our upper control arms are made of, are not designed to have ball-joints removed and pressed multiple times. You will get to the point the ball-joints will not have a proper press fit and could pop out.

    I know the Eiback Pro-kits are a mild drop, I would check out alignment values before purchasing front camber kit. There is a chance you may not need them. If these springs are similar to Tokico HP (red) springs, then I did not need front camber kit.

    If needed, rear camber can be adjusted via 3/8" I.D. washer under rear upper control arm screws. Start off with 1 washer under each screw and max of 2 for more extreme situations. You should not need more than 1 washer for each screw for your kit.
    Last edited by HondaFan81; 12-07-2009, 05:09 PM.
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      #3
      u dont need a camber kit with that set up its not an extreme drop. get a good alignment at bridgestone. tell them to set your tow to 0 and your camber can be -1 to +1 ( oem spec )

      personally if u had to pick i would go with the SPC ball joint and do a little grinding to prevent banging. and use the SEARCH function on here there are at least 100 threads about camber
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        #4
        I've got the Progress Anchor bolt style camber kit. I think it ran me like 175 for all 4 corners. The good thing about it is it came w/ poly bushings, so you won't have to press your OEM ones out and press new ones in. The entire anchor swaps over, bushing and all. I'm lowered about 2" all the way around and I'm still barely within OEM specs for camber of 1 degree. Tire wear isn't bad either, I got around 25k on my ZR rated 17s by just rotating normally every 5k miles

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          #5
          if u got a camber kit and ur not even dropped as far down as i am and i have a lower drop with a camber spec closer to 0 then something is wrong here HAHA
          lol i think its really the alignment shop u go to cause im dropped 2.5" and im -.03 camber. when u look at my tires the wear is pretty daym near even. u would have to break out a measurement gauge to be able to tell anything. even then it would be close and wouldnt really matter. and i been running the same tires for years not even rotated haha
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          Last edited by xkjnboix; 12-07-2009, 07:19 PM.
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            #6
            These are the ones Me and Tomi (Pakalohonda) are gonna get pretty soon after christmas.....the skunk2 adjustable camber kits, I'd recommend these ....there're kick ass and are made for our CB's!!


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              #7
              Are you sure there are Skunk2 units like the ones you posted made specifically for the CB chassis? If so, I'd love to see where and the pricing on them. That would be huge if a company like Skunk2 started making products for us.


              Originally posted by Maple50175
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                #8
                Originally posted by Tnwagn View Post
                Are you sure there are Skunk2 units like the ones you posted made specifically for the CB chassis? If so, I'd love to see where and the pricing on them. That would be huge if a company like Skunk2 started making products for us.
                Skunk 2 makes a lot of products for our CB's

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                  #9
                  those adjustable ones have a horrible design. DIY oem stuff man

                  http://www.preludepower.com/forums/s...ol+arms&page=3
                  frostwhite225@gmail.com =VENMO


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                    #10
                    would i want a camber kit for tenzo r springs and koni yellows? i think its like 2" or 2.25" drop
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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Tnwagn View Post
                      Are you sure there are Skunk2 units like the ones you posted made specifically for the CB chassis? If so, I'd love to see where and the pricing on them. That would be huge if a company like Skunk2 started making products for us.
                      Yes, Skunk2 makes alot of stuff for the CB chassis, these are running like $210 just the front ones and are adjustable like I said.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by theSOB View Post
                        would i want a camber kit for tenzo r springs and koni yellows? i think its like 2" or 2.25" drop
                        my drop is around 2.25 and camber is -2.2 and about -1.5 for the rear. so id at least correct a camber out of both if you are daily driving a lot. spec is +/- 1 degree.
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                          #13
                          Originally posted by wed3k View Post
                          my drop is around 2.25 and camber is -2.2 and about -1.5 for the rear. so id at least correct a camber out of both if you are daily driving a lot. spec is +/- 1 degree.
                          would i be able to correct it with just an alignment? or should i get a camber kit?
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                            #14
                            from the factory we cant adjust camber so yes, you would need a camber kit.
                            I <3 G60.

                            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                              #15
                              On my previous 92 EX I needed a camber kit, and I would rather have the camber around -.10 or better to help on tire wear and ride quality.

                              How "weak" is the metal that surrounds the upper ball joint? If you press them out properly and use quality parts (Napa does sell the upper ball joint alone) then what's the issue?

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