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Fed up with driver's window alignment

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    Fed up with driver's window alignment

    Short story: window regulator/motor was old and slow so replaced hoping window alignment could be fixed. New regulator and new window channel and the thing still doesn't line up. It goes up really great till almost to the top and the the rear top of glass shoots forward about 1/4" leaving un-tinted line along edge plus the front upper of glass doesn't seal against window channel.

    I've adjusted and adjusted the arm on the regulator and can't get it right.

    Any tricks I don't know of? Thanks!
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    #2
    Is this a coupe or sedan? Did you adjust the regulator after it has reached the top or is close to the top? Sometimes, I have to leave the 2 10mm (regulator rail to door) loose when I'm rolling the window up until it's fully closed and sealed tight and when it's in position, tighten it down. The coupes use a guide pin that usually break causing the problem you describe.

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      #3
      It's a 4dr.

      That's exactly what I did, left the adjuster bolts loose, rolled window all the way up and made sure it was positioned correctly then tightened down the adjuster bolts.....I'll play around with it more tomorrow.
      My Member's Ride Thread

      Bisimoto header before & after dyno

      1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

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        #4
        Both my 4drs did this, all the way up, the rear top cocks foward, making an annoying whistle. IDK how to fix it, tryed new regulator, new window seal. Same thing.
        wat?

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          #5
          It can be pushed over after you roll it all the way up but I'm not doing that every time!
          My Member's Ride Thread

          Bisimoto header before & after dyno

          1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

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            #6
            Some times, you need to do it the other way which is with all bolts tight, let it go up and after you help it into position all the way up, tighten the bolts. If I remember right, you need to push down/up on the rear 10mm bolt to get the right angle. If it's set right, the window shouldn't move much at all fully closed.

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              #7
              I had the same issue myself. I ignored it... pulling the window up into place by hand when necessary, pushing it down as it struggled... I blamed the cheap regulator.

              After about 2 years of doing that, I saw that the mounting screws had seriously damaged the mounting holes in the door... so now I may never get a regulator aligned properly again!






              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                I had the same issue myself. I ignored it... pulling the window up into place by hand when necessary, pushing it down as it struggled... I blamed the cheap regulator.

                After about 2 years of doing that, I saw that the mounting screws had seriously damaged the mounting holes in the door... so now I may never get a regulator aligned properly again!
                Yeah, that'll be fun. The 3 mounting screws are tight as can be. The window rolls up and down fine. I adjusted it as much as I could without the motor having to overwork and even greased the window channel with dry lube.
                My Member's Ride Thread

                Bisimoto header before & after dyno

                1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

                Comment


                  #9
                  my 4 door does this 2 and idk y

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by 19dabeast85 View Post
                    Yeah, that'll be fun. The 3 mounting screws are tight as can be. The window rolls up and down fine. I adjusted it as much as I could without the motor having to overwork and even greased the window channel with dry lube.
                    What sort of dry lube? I found that powdered graphite works best, and I think it's what they used from the factory. So many people use silicone, or a petroleum based lubricant, and that destroys all the rubber!

                    Originally posted by onelivinlarge View Post
                    my 4 door does this 2 and idk y
                    This sit back and read, instead of posting like you're txting your girlfriend.






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                      #11
                      I have replaced all the regulators on the wagon. The front drivers side was a bitch because of the master switch..but it wasn't that big of a problem. Yet that window is exactly as described in the first post here and I too have to pull it up and down at the half way points. Going to the car wash is scary hoping it is closed all the way up. Fast food dive-though is history. When I get the courage to take it apart again, I think it will be just a matter of loosening the window bolts and repositioning the window not the regulator....I hope. I did this window the first time too fast as I had chest pains and ended up in hospital. So I betting on it being a sloppy job and not defective regulator.
                      Last edited by SilverShadow; 04-20-2011, 11:32 AM.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                        What sort of dry lube? I found that powdered graphite works best, and I think it's what they used from the factory. So many people use silicone, or a petroleum based lubricant, and that destroys all the rubber!
                        Aerosol Liquid Wrench dry lube, leaves a white powdery substance. I think it's got teflon in it.
                        My Member's Ride Thread

                        Bisimoto header before & after dyno

                        1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

                        Comment

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