tried to run the car heard repetitive clicks clicks, TCU led blinks repetitively then code 10 but no S-light flashing on the dashboard ....CEL is always on ...meaning the blue connector is indeed shorted ... strange why S-light doesn't show the codes, also I am positive that the s-light bulb is fine
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Crazy Bad Mileage, CB7 consuming fuel like crazy
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MAJOR UPDATE: hopefully someone can shed the light.
what I did:
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- removed and soldered the main relay anyway.
- tapped on the starter motor.
- battery gives 12V
result:
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- now each time I try to start the engine, the cam-shaft pulley moves by 10 degrees
- engine still can't be rotated by hand
question:
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could it be a weak battery ?! I am charging it right now to check ... how much is enough though ?!
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Originally posted by EsperHamid View PostMAJOR UPDATE: hopefully someone can shed the light.
what I did:
=======
- removed and soldered the main relay anyway.
- tapped on the starter motor.
- battery gives 12V
result:
=======
- now each time I try to start the engine, the cam-shaft pulley moves by 10 degrees
- engine still can't be rotated by hand
question:
======
could it be a weak battery ?! I am charging it right now to check ... how much is enough though ?!Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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Originally posted by dj_ender View PostIf you can't move the crank with the car out of gear and with no spark plugs in, you have an issue. my suggestion is to set the engine to TDC, remove the timing belt, and try rotating the engine. If the crank moves, sounds like your issue is in the head/valve train. If it doesn't, your issue is in the block, could be damage, or maybe even dislodged thrust washers.
I charged the battery / soldered the main relay ==> starter motor rotates the crank slowly by no more than an an angle of 20 degrees now... and the battery drains with each stroke, its cables become warm too ==> can't rotate the engine by hand ... no matter what.
so I asked a mechanic, he came and tried his luck too ... nothing ... he told me that I need another F22A4 <== he said rebuilding it here will cost more in time and money
I am going with him tomorrow ..... but just in case what should I look for in the engine to check if it is a good one I am getting or not .... just the basics ??!?!?!?
Lessons I've learned:
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- not to mess with the RPM and not to open the F22A4 past 5500 rpm into the red zone
- will open the old engine ( unless I get a discount on the new one ) and check what was the problem and contribute to cb7tuner with pictures for the benefit of all.
- make sure both coolant sensors are well attached to their housing.
Goals I've achieved:
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- I was able to learn a lot from being around here and in my cb7 ( experience experience and more experience )
- fixed a lot of problems ...created others by my own stupidity
- Was able to successfully increase my MPG
Credits:
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- 1st to DJ_Ender for spending his/her time following me up through this thread
- 2nd to DJ_Ender for being patient reading my long and boring posts.
- 3rd a great thank you to ERIC THE CAR GUY for his Awesome videos especially that one on valve adjustment and changing the cam cage lower seals.
- 4th to everyone who contributed positively or even negatively in my threads.
- 5th thanks to my accord 1990 EX-R for allowing me to screw with her, once I make her happy another I make her sad.
No I am not leaving nor closing this thread, after I install the new engine I'll keep you posted
Until our next meetingLast edited by EsperHamid; 09-18-2012, 12:58 PM.
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Originally posted by EsperHamid View Postwhat should I look for in a new engine before buying it ?!Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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1- If said engine is still in car hear it run, drive it, and tests the engine appropriately.
2- If engine is not in a car but still has the transmission hooked up you can jump the starter to perform a compression or leak down test.
3- Alway's pull the pan and head before hand (Especially if you can not hear it or drive said engine). Check for shaving's in the pan and pick up, smell for burnt oil (Which=Heat or lack of maintenance), check head for valve issues.
Don't shy away from any SOHC F series as they are all basically the same. With the expectation of the usdm F22b's and the F23's very minor work is needed for those, but they are likely to have less miles. Or you can buy a F22a/F20a/F20b etc from a engine importer for around $500-700. If you plan to buy a used one from a private seller or JY i highly suggest you take the right procedures and don't jump the gun.
02 Crv
02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.
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